LamboClone - The Premier Site for Lamborghini Replica Builders
The Forum => New Member Introductions & Bio's => Topic started by: pkovgolf on June 24, 2013, 12:11:50 AM
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Hi all
Here is my Murcie (G28 kit), G25 dash
The car also now has proper size Lambo style wheels and extenders on it rather than the ones in the pictures
I'll post other pics of the chassis ('85 fiero), etc
I need a bunch of parts. The main ones are:
Door skins (inner and outer)
Center Console
Underside of hood
The back corner piece along the edge of the roof and rear window
The engine hatch
Inserts for headlights (lenses and trays)
Triangle piece that comes down from the dash to the center console
...?
If any of you can help me find these pieces, it would be GREATLY appreciated
Thank you!
Peter
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Cool kit. It's a west coast production (Tri-G or Joe or Rob), they use colored gel coat. They also have the Stretch Adaptive Frame on it, and that's a plus.
In addition to inner cards & outer skin - from the pics - You need the center door cards to host a door frame and connect hinges / latches / & shocks, etc.
You will need to alter the inner door card to fit around the dashboard sides nicely.
If you can't source the parts from the members just remember that rob or CKI or IKR can make u those parts - not too expensive since u have most of the kit.
The frame / cage should be like the extreme one since you have a coupe.
Best of luck Peter we will keep an eye on this one
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Peter
We have the 2nd generation doors ,if nothing else buy ours ( reason the inner doors are too short and sloppy with a large amount of play from front to back ,ours fit tight in the opening they are modified to fit correctly ,50 hours have gone into fixing the inner doors alone ....we have alot of parts to fix the G28 ,plus body molds ) .... 4 pieces 2 inner doors & 2 outside door skins )
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPG282ndGenerationinnerdoorstxt.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPG282ndGenerationinnerdoorstxt.jpg.html) during the IKR process , if you want less wind noise and accurate fitment PM us !!
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/013-1.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/013-1.jpg.html)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/019.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/019.jpg.html)
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Great ikr. Is the outer skin connected to the center-thick door cards, it seems like that in ur pics
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for molding purposes only ....only way to center the whole door to the car body before molding it ..... it will be sold as 2 pieces per side (inner & outer 250.00 each x 4 ) so you the customer can put his or her steel , hinges and window tracks ,etc. inside the inner door .the angle for the stricker latch is already built into the door end so you do not have to figure it out !! http://lamboclone.com/index.php?topic=654.0 (http://lamboclone.com/index.php?topic=654.0)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPTGWITHAWINGIMG_2627.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPTGWITHAWINGIMG_2627.jpg.html)
how many people saw these car at the show this year ,they did a great job on them.
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Is this the car you bought , out of LA?
Here's a video murci me took
http://youtu.be/cOSDjx-tHA0 (http://youtu.be/cOSDjx-tHA0)
Also see eBay 330911667834
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Welcome Peter ::beers
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Tusabes that is the same car as in the video. That the one i was getting ready to drive to California about a month or 2 ago.
If you dont mind me asking, What did he let it go for? The guy seemed very eager to sell it but he left details out when telling me about it and I found out additional information from another member.
Good luck on your build.
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I am happy someone is saving a forgotten build. This build has been mentioned here a few times (was selling for $5K a month ago) and it is recieving a negative connotation whenever mentioned.
I don't see it like that!
As Murci-Me showed it was unfortunate that this build has wasted $33K and got nowhere. It certainly isn't worth that, or half of that, or a quarter of that... but what is it worth?
Let's pay a close attention to the build summary that Murci-Me showed in the video:
A stretched Fiero + A Stretch Enforcement Frame + A not-so-nice Kit missing some items all for around $5K.
The details?
There are clearely two negative things associated with the donor vehicle:
When the Fiero was stretched, a lot of the wiring has been cut & left hanging and many harnesses need to be re-conficgured or replaced. Also, some things must imediately go; Metal Bars above the engine area, and the sheet metal by the AC condensor.
So how hard is the above to correct?
Framing.
The Stretch-Enforcement Frame (which has become standared with Fiero builds) was made and tack-mounted (Adequate Welding needs to be completed). This build does not come with attachment-cage-support frame to mount the kit to the donor yet. So for instance, the roof / windshield, etc. have no frames yet. So accordingly, the kit just sits on the car for now. This is not a problem, it is just what the build stage is at and that is a 'next on the list' not 'something wrong or missing'.
There are clearely two negative things associated with the body kit.
Due to it sitting for over two years, the body still requires Edge Trimming as it did in day 1, and in a lot of areas the Gell Coat has now pealed off. This is especially for the rear bumper, and several other areas. And there needs to be 'Sail Window' openings behind the Quarter windows - those should be recreated.
How long does this body kit need in edge trimming and fiberglass patching to bring it its competitive Kit status (EQUAL TO CKI's kit which is just as horrible in edges & trimming)?
The sagging spoiler of the G28 bodies is a matter of design - it is not "something wrong / broken / missing with this particular kit" it is "something made different than OEM on all the IE/Rob kits"
How hard is it to make the spoiler's bottom look OEM?
The above was the exact summary of the Video really... NOT a matter of opinion - I just wrote down what Murci-Me said and organized it.
And certainly good luck on your build (: keep us updated
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Ali gave joe griego of inland exotics over $30,000- of course very little of that money was actually spent on this build , most of the money was simply stolen by joe griego
I've never seen a kit use those round bars , I think it was something new joe was trying out but obviously it didnt work.
Good thing you have someone who can help build you a proper frame , unfortunately I don't have the dimensions of the proper parts you need
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(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/lpframesetup2.png) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/lpframesetup2.png.html) SUPPORTS
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPIKRsSubFrameSIDESUPPORT.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPIKRsSubFrameSIDESUPPORT.jpg.html)we perfer square tub side support ,an its highly recommended so the fiberglass body sill plate sit flat on top
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPACCONDENSORFRONTSUPPORT.png) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPACCONDENSORFRONTSUPPORT.png.html) best way to do the front extender so the A/C condensor fit an a fan can be installed and vent ,the side supports also fix it so it has a cricket box ,so when you look infront of the tire it does not look like a kit car , put a small wheel liner in front of the tire to cover/close the area off ,more professional look an fit . Trying to help
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In addition to the pics by IKR here are the pics for the frame on an MR2 but it is the same frame for the fiero as it is basically the frame for any Coupe Murcielago. I labled what I am making because I have a convertible but you get the idea :)
I have the door frames and the windshield frame that I consider Standard (they measure the same on all builds despite shape details) I'll take a pic of them when I get them from my garage.
here is the door frame and a pic of it installed
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Really just curious but if this was Ali's car. Did OP purchase it from Ali? Or did Joe @IE sell the car to make more money that shouldn't be his?
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Hi!
I don't know who Ali is - can you please explain / provide details?
>If you dont mind me asking, What did he let it go for?
I paid $2500 for the chassis and body and various parts
I paid $1300 for wheels and tires
And $~300 enclosed shipping (he paid the rest)
>The guy seemed very eager to sell it but he left details out when telling me about it and I found out additional
> information from another member.
What was he additional info?
>Good luck on your build.
Thank you! :)
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IKR
That chassis you show is darn close to mine, except, mine does not have the side body support or the flat stock piece for the dash/windshield
Additionally, mine has none of the round stock pieces for body attachment /support
So, I need to get those made, but need full dimensions which have not seen/found
Thank you!
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first thing to do is address the hinge beam across the dash area ,get a tape measure and measure from the top of the brake systems power booster ,to the bottom of the hinge beam ,tell us what that no. is ,if its too much then i marked the side of the metal subframe picture in red ,you will have to remove / cut down some of the side support bars ,this will in turn lower the hinge beam down ,which in turn will lower the body down over the fiero dash area ,plus require less lowering on the front suspension to close the gap between the front fender opening and top of the tire ,anybody with the correct rims and tires already on their fiero ,give him the height of your front tire and rim, i will get the no. for side support we use ,we are not round tubing benders ....
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPIKRsSubFrameSIDESUPPORT.jpg) (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/italianknightrider/media/italianknightriders%20album%202/LPIKRsSubFrameSIDESUPPORT.jpg.html)we perfer square tubing side support ,an its highly recommended so the fiberglass body sill plate sit flat on top
build some saw horses 2 of them as wide as the car body ,tie them together on the sides ,we used 2 10 ft 2 x 4s , get some help ,flip the body upside down now all the measurements are inside the roof ,bend the metal to conform with the roof ,"A" pillars , brace across the top of the back window opening , cut 2 legs to tie it down to the fiero firewall, do not install those until you have final body height adjustment done ,you can tack them in place i guess .
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Excellent info
THANK YOU!
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There you go! That works great. Thanks IKR ::rocker
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Remember though, on the G28 bodies, the passenger side "A" pillar is shorter than the drivers side "A" pillar. Make any corrections to be sure they are the same length before proceeding any further cutting framing. Also, most of the roofs on the G28 coupes are squished down a bit. You don't notice it when the body is placed on the chassis, but will be very apparent when it comes time to do your doors. The best thing to do is once your body is mounted, do your doors first. DO NOT put any framing in the roof or "A" pillars until your inner and outer door skins are bonded together. Now, lift the roof to match up with the top of the doors. I cut wood 2X4's and wedged them between the floor pan and the underside of the roof, and wedged them up until the roof lined up perfectly with the door tops. I then cut all my roof and "A" pillar framing to fit snug under the underside of the roof, and along the "A" pillars. When the 2X4's were removed, the new framing supported the roof in the correct position and all was well in the world.
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Wow - thank you for that insight! I had no idea about that.
As always, your help is ***greatly*** appreciated
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Good evening -
Would you be willing to send me full dimensions for all of the body support pieces of the frame:
Body side support
Striker support
Dash support
By that I mean the length/width/height of all pieces for these and the position for mounting of each component for them - e.g. a dimensioned/mechanical drawing
I can't find this anywhere! The picture you posted was nice, but I cannot determine sizes from that
Thank you in advance. ;D
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I don't think that information exists. Remember, the word "kit" is a very loose term with these builds. A dimension that works for somebody else wont necessarily work for you. You need to start by placing the body on the chassis, and making sure the wheels all line up in the wheel well openings. That will give you the correct placement of the body for your build as far as forward and backward goes. You need to center the body over the centerline of the car as well. This can be done just by measuring to find the center of each, then lining them up.
Trying to find a measurement to start with is just about impossible, since each build varies by as much as a couple inches one way or the other. These cars are all about compromise and custom fabrication of almost every support piece, hinge, brace and so on.
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Yea peter. I agree with Murci-Me has seen several of those already - None are exactly the same... We have those west coast bodies and they are not exactly symmetrical. Certainly align the front wheels and make sure they turn in the wheel wells as he mentioned - i did that on Saturday and made sure of those first then i mounted the rockers after i fastened the center of the front bumper. even then i went to the tail of the kit and can still push it an inch right or left... Just because it sat nice in the front it doesnt mean it will rest the same in the back! I pushed it at least a cm to the side and measures where the little triangle grill sit on the rear wheels surface looking from the back. I then placed a rockstar can under every corner to sustain similar height on all 4 corners of the kit. Stuff like that work.
Mike I think his trouble now is that his wheels are still sitting too narrow inside the kit (not enough width even with the spacers) of course with the trouble of being unable to move the kit much with the support frame on it limiting his adjustments.
He does still need to know if the Support frame around the Fiero tub is the right size and mounted incorrectly or it is the wrong size to start with... sux
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He is building on a stretched Fiero though, and his body is made to fit on a Fiero chassis. To get the proper body to chassis mount, all he has to do is set the body on the chassis and see if it sits on the front frame (under the front hood) and the rear firewall where the back window is. The body was made to sit on these 2 points, all the other bracing is done once this is achieved.
Look inside the front hood area (front trunk) and where the body goes down into the trunk, there will be a fiberglass flange which is part of the body which runs horizontal to the ground. iIt runs on each side of the front trunk, and in the front just behind the front bumper. This horizontal flange sits right on top of the Fiero chassis, and this is where thr front part of the body bolts to the chassis. On a Fiero, the front frame needs to be extended about 1 foot, and then linked together with another piece of steel (square) tube. This link piece should be located directly under the front bumper flange, and is where the bumper bolts to the chassis as well. Since the G kits are unibodies, the front bumper is part of the fenders, meaning it was cast as one piece instead of separate fenders and bumper. This makes it easier to bolt the whole front of the car down to the frame, and is very rigid when completed. It also makes mounting the body to the chassis to achieve the proper height dummy proof.
In the rear of the car, the area under the bat wings should sit directly on top of the sheet metal that composes the strut towers. Once this is accomplished, the rear window area should be sitting directly on top of the rear Fiero firewall, and should be bolted down to that as well.
Once all of this is accomplished, you can then fabricate your rocker supports, and interior sheet metal fill-in's between the Fiero tub and fiberglass body.
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Is mine 'not' a "G"28 body? A few folks said it was, but notice that my body had separate pieces for my rocker panels, etc.
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It is a G28 body, just not an original G28. The original G28's are a little more accurate, I.E. (Joe) changed some things when he came up with his own version. Unfortunately, the changes he did made the body less accurate and harder to assemble. He claimed he changed things to make the body more "affordable", but no one has ever figured out how changing body lines makes the body more affordable.
You've definitely got your work cut out for you, but don't worry its not to bad.
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Hi!
i am finally getting to my support frame for real.
Can you please tell me what size round stock you used for the roof suppprt and rocker support framing?
Also what size reactangular stock are your striker plate pieces?
I still need to fix some wiring and fuel items for this thing!
Thank you!!!!
Do you know.what happened to am33r ??? (ameer)