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How To - Tips => Heating and Cooling => Topic started by: timmer on May 02, 2014, 08:22:53 PM

Title: over heating
Post by: timmer on May 02, 2014, 08:22:53 PM
I finally bought a Diablo replicia .. Beautiful car in and out..  Was told no overheating issues and long story short ,  overheating.    the car is running a lS TPI corvette engine,
the radiator in the front has a fan on it blowing into the radiator .. my garage guy thought
maybe reverse the fan to suck the air away instead of into it,  and that didnt work.  It blew the heating coil yesterday and we did a bypass on it,  but now seems to over heat quick..
whats  a  good set up on a Diablo  ?  any help would be appriciated 

Tim
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: aeauto on May 02, 2014, 08:35:41 PM
How big is the radiator you have now?  More frontal area is better than thicker.  Put the largest fan you can fit on the back side of the radiator.  Make sure it has a shroud.  If the fan is in front it will actually block some of the air flow.  Make sure that the air has somewhere to go after it goes through the radiator.  You cannot get it in if there is no place for it to exit.  You might need some ducting in front to direct the air through the radiator.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Digibeam on May 02, 2014, 10:23:17 PM
Also make sure there is a thermostat or some type of restricter in the flow. Or the rad will just be an entertainment device for you to play around with.
And just to be sure,  your water pump is functioning correct?    I have seen impellers slip on the shaft of water pumps that otherwise seemed to be working fine....
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: notnilc20 on May 02, 2014, 10:24:23 PM
Shroud is critical. Also you may try this stuff. You can run up to 20 degrees cooler.   http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/Super-Coolant-c8.html (http://www.hyperlube.com/c3/Super-Coolant-c8.html)

Title: Re: over heating
Post by: msaby on May 02, 2014, 10:59:30 PM
Are you sure you purged all the air out of the cooling system?  What temp does your fan turn on? 


Mike
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Robert on May 03, 2014, 12:45:27 AM
First of all replace the thermostat, or put it in on the stove with a thermometer to see when it opens. You may have to install a access point at the highest point of the cooling system, to make sure that all of the air has been purged. You always want to pull your air through the radiator. You may want to check the impeller on the water pump. Is the pump electric?, is it working? Good luck!
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: italianknightrider on May 03, 2014, 05:30:12 AM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPAL-30102042-Electric-Fan-14-Inch-Pull-Style-Curved-Blades-/251349545340?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3a8599b17c&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPAL-30102042-Electric-Fan-14-Inch-Pull-Style-Curved-Blades-/251349545340?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3a8599b17c&vxp=mtr)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-a-lite-Syclone-S-Blade-Electric-Fan-1-505-CFM-Puller-14-Dia-Single-394-/191126997222?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c800e88e6&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-a-lite-Syclone-S-Blade-Electric-Fan-1-505-CFM-Puller-14-Dia-Single-394-/191126997222?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c800e88e6&vxp=mtr)  best

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-1-Thick-Tube-Radiator-1984-1988-Pontiac-Fiero-/201002976998?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eccb606e6&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-1-Thick-Tube-Radiator-1984-1988-Pontiac-Fiero-/201002976998?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eccb606e6&vxp=mtr) best

check to see if you have A bent tube going to the engine H2O supply , jack the rear of the car up while filling it
up ,get a thermostat that open between 160-180 for that V8 engine ,set fan up similar ,you want a high CFM PULLER

     
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: timmer on May 03, 2014, 09:36:37 PM
Guys I really thank you all for your input..  im going to answer some of the questions, 
the radidator size is 23 x 20 x 3  ,  now I am not sure if all the air is out of the lines,  I just had it delivered to me on Sunday not even had it a week.   My garage guy is willing to do whatever it takes.. but he is scraching his head thinking what to do..  I am adding a pic of the rad and fan ,   now the question we were thinking with the air coming up from the bottom of the car, and currently the fan is blowing into the rad,  with the air coming up under the rad should the fan pull the air away ? like reverse the fan direction ..? 
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: timmer on May 03, 2014, 09:38:14 PM
forgot to add the pic of the rad and fan
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: notnilc20 on May 03, 2014, 10:12:37 PM
Whoa!  I don't see a fan shroud on there first of all. Second of all, if that fan is pushing the air toward the front, then you should turn the fan around so it is pulling the air through and working with the natural flow of air while the car is in motion and not pushing it back. That's if i'm seeing things correctly. Anyone else?
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: CCIE on May 04, 2014, 12:23:10 PM
Nice....... Some one else with a Diablo......  WELCOME!!!

I have a Ferrari F40 with a Corvette v8... Had the same issue of overheating. I had my mechanic try a lot of different thing (lots of $$$$) There are several thing you have to think about... Is your Radiator big enough, Can your fan push/pull enough air and are you moving enough coolant through your system. If you have your Rad in the front you need to make sure your water pump is strong enough. I have a 35G electric pump and do not have a heating issue.
I also have a Diablo 60 with a Corvette v8 setup and same coolant setup but it is overheating. I did change the thermostat and things were working fine. I also have a engine cover on top which is restricting airflow so I am going to put 2 fans in the rear to pull air out of the engine bay (I do not have the RAD's in the rear) Hopefully it will allow me to still have the engine cover and run cool.
I also have a Diablo roadster and getting a Corvette v8 TPI dropped in it now, I intend to do the same setup with a rad in front and 2 fans in the rear (to pull the air out of the engine bay, also duct the air in from the side air inlet and possibly put fans there as well) Of course using an aluminum 4 core RAD and strong water pump (remember the coolant has to travel all the way from the rear to the front and the original Fiero water pump wont be able to handle it)
Conclusion...... There are three component you have to look... A big Aluminum 4 core Rad. Strong electric water pump and Patience)

Below is the water pump I used (similar)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Block-Chevy-Red-Electric-Water-Pump-396-427-454-BBC-V8-Chevrolet-HP-/380606207470?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589de5d5ee&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Block-Chevy-Red-Electric-Water-Pump-396-427-454-BBC-V8-Chevrolet-HP-/380606207470?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589de5d5ee&vxp=mtr)

Thanks
CCIE
PS post more pic and if you have any questions that I can help just email me
Yusha_2000@yahoo.com
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: tonypaul on May 04, 2014, 09:57:02 PM
Got your email and thought I would respond here-

When I had my sbc with the Fiero 5 speed I only had the 2 rear Griffin rads in the back with Spal fans plus 1 electric waterpump on the motor and one in between the 2 rads and it cooled great. Now with my LS4 it was cooling just fine but once I added a/c and now a turbo it was having trouble staying at 180 degrees in heavy traffic during hot days. It would also get hot if I was driving it hard, it would climb up to 200-210 and not ever come back done until I stopped the car and let it cool back down.

I like this car to run no more than 180 degrees, the heat soak thru the cabin just gets too much even with Fatmat everywhere. What I have done is put a intercooler (like people use for turbos) between the rear cabin firewall and the motor down a little bit low with 2 small 7" electric fans. This is the one I used:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140584269021?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/140584269021?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)

I hooked it up to my heater core lines (dont need a heater in the summer) and wired the 2 small fans to a couple relays and have it coming on via my brake light switch. That way it only comes on when Im sitting in traffic/stop light/ect basicly when my airflow is low. Plus I have a master switch/button that I can turn it on at anytime I need, but havnt needed to yet. I run a 180 degree thermostat with a small 1/4ish" hole drilled in it, my car will run 160ish degrees in the mornings when its cool outside (fans are set to come on at 160) and never over 185 in heat no matter how I drive it. I just tried to take a pic of this small rad/intercooler but it was too dark, I will take one tomorrow. I no longer run the 2nd electric waterpump only the factory LS4 waterpump, but I might hook up the 2nd inline electric waterpump to my intercooler/rad thing if I see it starting to run any warmer once the Texas 105+ degrees summers kick in.

Depending on how much money you want to spend you could change to 2 rear mounted rads, I might provide better cooling but personaly I would just keep the front mount for now.

I didnt read all the responces to your post but this is what I would do if it were my car:
A: First find someone who has a temperture gun, go over everything. Check to see if the rad/each cylinder/different parts of the motor to make sure there isnt a big temperture difference.
B: Get a second temp gauge (harbor friengt has them around $15.00) put into the motor somewhere, either the heads or intake. You will have to remove a plug somewhere to do this. When I first put in my sbc it was running hot, but come to find out the temperture sending unit wasnt the right one for my gauge.

If none of that works-
#1. Make sure I got a real good rad up front, made for a V8, preferable a aluminum rad.
#2. When the car is cold (not started that day) I would jack up the car on the waterpump side of the as high as I could get it. Remove the the thermostat housing and the thermostat, fill the motor thru the hole in the intake as much as you can.
#3. remove the rad cap and fill as much as you can, till the coolant starts coming out of the thermostat hole in the intake..
#4. Let it sit for 30 minutes and refill again while the car is still jacked up.
#5. Put back the thermostat and housing and rad cap, get your water hose turn it on a little and fill the upper hose as much as you can and quickly attach it to the thermostat housing. Try to get as much coolant/water in the the hose to get in the cooling system.

For sure you need to put that electric fan on the back of the rad, make sure the fan is turning the right way. You should be able to put a piece of heavy cardboard on the front of the rad and the electric fan should hold the cardboard in place while on.

I couldnt tell from your description what kind of waterpump you have, electric or belt driven. But if your running a electric waterpump- Make sure you have good 12v to the pump. Make sure its wired to come on with the key. And make sure there is a small hole drilled into the thermostat so coolant can pass thru even if the thermostat is closed. Drop the car off the jack and take it for a test drive.


If you have a belt driven water pump- I would go ahead and change it out to a good name brand performance high volume water pump. Cant hurt... Another thing to check is the wiring on the fan itself. you want a heavy gauge wire for the main power feed. Sometimes people/builders will use smaller wire and a cheap relay for the fan... You also need to check the airway to the rad, making sure you have good, unblocked airflow directly to the rad. Second you need to make sure the air has a good way of getting out. Airflow in and OUT is super important. Its best if you have some kind of wind deflector on the bottom of the rad to push air upto the rad.

If all this fails to improve your cooling, next do a leak down test on the motor to check for a bad head gasket. Also with the car running check the back of the exhaust to make sure no kind of moisture is comming out.

After you do all these test/replacing/checking and your still over heating get back to me and I will try to come up with something else.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Digibeam on May 05, 2014, 12:04:13 AM
that was excellent information for everyone actually....another thought that crossed my mind was timing, its a long shot but it can make a big difference in temp also.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: aeauto on May 05, 2014, 10:02:55 AM
The timing issue had crossed my mind too and would be a good thing to have checked.  You might also think about installing a header tank as a high point near the engine and do you filling there.  It will be a place for air to accumulate and get it out of the system.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: 01Lambiero on May 05, 2014, 10:14:01 AM
Below is the water pump I used (similar)
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Block-Chevy-Red-Electric-Water-Pump-396-427-454-BBC-V8-Chevrolet-HP-/380606207470?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589de5d5ee&vxp=mtr[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Block-Chevy-Red-Electric-Water-Pump-396-427-454-BBC-V8-Chevrolet-HP-/380606207470?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589de5d5ee&vxp=mtr[/url])

Thanks
CCIE
PS post more pic and if you have any questions that I can help just email me
Yusha_2000@yahoo.com


My past experience with cheap (under $150) electric water pumps is that they are junk.  After one year the seal leaks and they are NOT REPAIRABLE.  Buy a quality water pump like Meziere or CSR.  CSR also makes an inline pump to aid the oem pump on your engine. 

Your cooling system should be able to handle any variance in the ignition timing.  (too advanced: hard starting/too retarded: sluggish and no performance) 

210 degrees is NOT overheating.  Your average driver today runs in the 210 range.  240 degrees is overheating.  Past experience is that 180 degrees is just barely warm to an engine.  If you are using a 15# cap, your coolant will boil at 257 degrees.  Jim
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: LP640 on May 05, 2014, 04:00:47 PM
My rad is mounted similar although mine is more of at an angle up. Also there is room for the fan air to escape. My setup is dead simple and works. I drive it like hell no overheating.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: tonypaul on May 06, 2014, 05:26:13 PM
BTW- are you running anykind of ignition box like a MSD or Mallory/ect?

If your running a electric water pump- The flow rate varys accoring to the manufacture specs. Since the electric waterpumps flow the same rate all the time, you have to make sure your getting the right amount of flow to cool the engine properly. Not too fast and not to slow. You can get these "water restrictors" from any hotrod shop there really cheap like $10-$15. They come in sets containting these thin looking large washers that replace your thermostat with different size holes in them. This can sometimes take awhile to get right- but you start off with the middle size hole and test it out. It might take a couple trys to get the right one that gets the proper flow.

Forgot to add incase you havnt checked: - what temp is the fan set to come on/off. Make sure your thermostat is working properly and if you have a electric water pump make sure there is a small hole drilled in the outer ring of the thermostat to let water pass thru whlie the thermostat is closed.

As mentioned the cheaper (china made) are not very good. I had on on my sbc and it went out in about a year and a half after I bought it. But on mine the electric motor went out on mine, the pump will sound different kinda a rattling sound when it goes out. Get a good name brand electric water pump.....
 
Also mentioned, the timing its a real good idea to check it, super important if you car has a hard time starting or anykind of dieseling when you shut it down or any kind of popping/backfiring thru the carb/TB. Also you can also check your ignition advance springs inside you distributor to make sure your getting the proper advancing thru your powerband if you have a standard HEI.

You can also remove the lower rad hose from the rad, jack up the front of the car as much as you can and put your water hose in the rad. Start filling the rad (fairly quickly/ plent of water pressure) till the water starts comming out of the lower
rad hose. This is to check to make sure you have no kind of blockage. Then do the same test on the rad, check out the flow to see if it has the same amount of flow coming out as going in.

Im sorry I failed to mention: The main reason I run my engine cooler (160ish-180ish) than most is because Im not on a factory ECU. I have stand alone engine management and transmission mangement and I run E85 fuel. Im able to adjust my VE and ignition map tables to compensate for the slighty cooler engine. On a fuel injected sbc engine I would go with a 190 degree thermostat, carbed I would go with a 180.

I personaly feel from the issues you spoke off, you have a combination of a bad setup on your electric fan and maybe waterpump failure.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: timmer on May 07, 2014, 09:52:13 PM
I really want to thank everyone for their help and thoughts,   I am getting a bigger fan and shroud to pull the air out of the rad and place the other fan in the front of the rad to push the air along with the natural flow of the air..   Looking at the electric water pump ,  im told it is big enough to do the job..  I know we got air in the lines somewhere and will get it out and hope all the changes work,  I love this car and want to drive it,  not look at it only..    I was asked to post more pics and will do so...  you guys are great... would be
awesome to just sit around an have a few cocktails with you all and just have some fun..
I will let you know how it goes next week.. 
Thanks
Tim
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: notnilc20 on May 07, 2014, 11:21:51 PM
That's a nice looking ride. Putting a shroud on will help tremendously.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Robert on May 08, 2014, 04:54:04 PM
I was just thinking, fast over heating can be caused by a blown head gasket, or a cracked head. Do a compression test, the cylinders should all be fairly close in psi. Pull all the plugs out when you do it, make sure your battery is fully charged.
Before you do the compression test, look for bubbles coming into the over flow tank, this is a easy way to see if cumbustion gases are entering the cooling system. Check for bubbles at idle, and 2000 rpm.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Digibeam on May 08, 2014, 09:31:51 PM
Usually he would find that interesting froth of oil mix in the rad water or an unusual amount of white smoke from the exhaust with the head gasket wouldn't he? 
Maybe more if it was a cracked head I guess.... Anyways... Carry on.   ::K
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: 01Lambiero on May 08, 2014, 10:18:55 PM
Back to square one:  Blowing a heater core is NOT overheating.  The heater core will handle the 15# cooling system pressure if in good condition.  How do you know for sure that it is overheating?

Jim
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: timmer on May 09, 2014, 06:06:09 AM
I was not having any problems with overheating at first driving around town short trips here and there,   I took it out on the highway,  doing adv 80mph  and went about 10 miles or so and that's when I noticed the heater core blew.... I drove it a little bit longer trying to get it back home, but that's when it started boiling over... Had it towed and at my mechanics he did a bypass on the heater core and we filled it up with coolent mix and took it for a short ride before it started boiling over again..  Its possible there is air in the lines and what was noticed also was the fan was blowing into the rad... it was not going with the natural air flow ,  we reversed the fan and that did not help,  we need to get the air out..  but I ordered an new fan 3000cfm  and we are getting a shroud built for it ,  we are going to put one fan on the one side blowing in with the natural air flow and the other pulling it out ,  then with the air bubbles out of the lines it might all work like it should..   heres hoping..

Tim
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: 01Lambiero on May 09, 2014, 08:21:41 AM
Unless your fan has flat blades, reversing it won't help and adding another fan on the other side of the radiator won't make the radiator cool any better as it would cause a obstruction in the air flow.  Just try a higher cfm fan and a shroud on the rear of your radiator.  Next time you have a large coolant leak, stop the car and call for help.

Jim
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: timmer on May 09, 2014, 09:52:23 AM
so one fan pushing the air while the other fan was pulling the air would not be a good idea?
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Thumper on May 09, 2014, 11:07:11 AM
Just some thought from my experience, sounds like there's air in the lines somewhere.  I wouldn't go with dual fans, that's only prolonging the real issue.  I would make sure the thermostat is new, fan is blowing in the right direction, and there's no air pockets anywhere.  Can be pretty tricky to get them out with the front mounted rad.  If you have a blown head gasket or something else major, it will more than likely blow white smoke out the exhaust or have discolored/foamy oil.  But my guess from what was posted is air pockets. 
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Digibeam on May 09, 2014, 12:16:46 PM
so one fan pushing the air while the other fan was pulling the air would not be a good idea?

No, you cause rarefaction  from positive and negative pulsing due to the blades being out of sync as well no shroud.... 
If you must use a front fan it should be as an inlet to pressurize a chamber in front of the radiator that is then drawn through the rad by the fan in the rear of it.

So, use a remote fan to draw cool air in from outside, pressurize the inner front trunk area, then draw that through the rad.
Not that this is about over heating but just informational about a fan sandwich = bad idea
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: CCIE on May 09, 2014, 01:15:26 PM
so one fan pushing the air while the other fan was pulling the air would not be a good idea?

No, you cause rarefaction  from positive and negative pulsing due to the blades being out of sync as well no shroud.... 
If you must use a front fan it should be as an inlet to pressurize a chamber in front of the radiator that is then drawn through the rad by the fan in the rear of it.

So, use a remote fan to draw cool air in from outside, pressurize the inner front trunk area, then draw that through the rad.
Not that this is about over heating but just informational about a fan sandwich = bad idea





"fan sandwich"..... Hmmmmm....... I personally prefer a turkey sandwich with feta cheese on rye bread.... with a slice of kosher extra crispy pickle.....

But Digi is correct "fan sandwich = bad idea"  ::bounce

Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Robert on May 09, 2014, 04:56:45 PM
Usually he would find that interesting froth of oil mix in the rad water or an unusual amount of white smoke from the exhaust with the head gasket wouldn't he? 
Maybe more if it was a cracked head I guess.... Anyways... Carry on.   ::K
I had a cavalier with a bad head gasket. No smoke, no oil in coolant, pressurised system to 15psi and held pressure. The head gasket was just starting to go bad. Only under the high pressure of combustion, would it leak. I saw air bubbles entering the over flow bottle at 2000 rpm.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Digibeam on May 09, 2014, 05:50:57 PM
Gotta love the anomalies , I remember once dealing with a car that the battery kept dying new or old,  ends up the upper rad hose was the culprit ...   The spring inside the hose grounded as well positive static in the fluid caused a dielectric situation that shorted the body ground.  It was all very exciting...
But at the same time these situations are kinda not fun when you have zero evidence to support general theories ..   ::K
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: cmarens on May 09, 2014, 05:56:52 PM
I had a cavalier with a bad head gasket. No smoke, no oil in coolant, pressurised system to 15psi and held pressure. The head gasket was just starting to go bad. Only under the high pressure of combustion, would it leak. I saw air bubbles entering the over flow bottle at 2000 rpm.
[/quote]

There is a simple symptom that one would see if there were a leak in the system. Aside from white smoke or the FML Fairy visiting you in your dreams to tell you exactly what she did - 99% of the time there is fluid where that particular type of fluid does not belong. Simple yeah? Now, try to find it. Could be water getting into the tranny lines on an A/T which would cause drop in pressure and room for air, could be, as was previously said, foam or white-ish sludge in the oil (this can also be from short trips where the car does not get to operating temp and stay there for very long, ie. "Been working fine running around town on short trips..."), it could be a small hairline crack in the block that goes from a cylinder to a water jacket.


Here is the 1% of the time example of when this is not happening. When I was a teenager I had an '87 SS Monte Carlo. It started to have temp issues. I could not see a leak. I drained all of the fluids and did not find a drop of cross-contamination anywhere. Eventually it would start to get hot and I could see steam coming from somewhere but could not find it. After new hoses, fan, radiator, eventually I pulled it into the garage and started to tear it down for head replacement. As I was taking the carb off I hit something with my ratchet on the back side of the intake. There was a T there that fed water into the intake on that SOB. I have never ever seen that set up before in my life, nor had my stepfather who has been monkeying with cars for a long long time. As I knew that it was not needed on any other vehicle I had ever seen in my life, I put a normal straight splice in the hose, tapped the hole in the intake and put a bolt in there with lock-tite on it. I never had another problem with that car again.

Sorry for the novel. I know this really doesn't give you a straight answer to the issue, BUT I wanted to point out that while there is a usual suspect in these cases, there is the '87 Monte Carlo water into the intake for some backward reason to consider. It could be a 5 cent fix is what I am getting at. Could be something small and insignificant, I would dig around in there before pulling the wallet out for anything major. Another pair of eyes on it may help too. Keep poking and you will find it eventually.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: cmarens on May 09, 2014, 06:04:46 PM
Gotta love the anomalies , I remember once dealing with a car that the battery kept dying new or old,  ends up the upper rad hose was the culprit ...   The spring inside the hose grounded as well positive static in the fluid caused a dielectric situation that shorted the body ground.  It was all very exciting...
But at the same time these situations are kinda not fun when you have zero evidence to support general theories ..   ::K

I had a similar issue to that one. A friend in college had an older Blazer that would not start once in a while. When I went over to pull the battery out and put mine in one night to see if it was the battery I heard a very very very faint noise. It was late at night and very quiet outside for a change (lived near college campus) which allowed the culprit to be found. There was some build-up in his steering wheel under the, you guessed it, horn contacts. The horn had almost constant current to it, but not enough to actually hear it under normal conditions. Insanity what one will see if they are around cars long enough. I could make a whole new thread of odd stuff that I have seen and I am sure in hours it would be massive with other's tales.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Digibeam on May 09, 2014, 07:41:26 PM
Perhaps we should have just that,  a strange anomaly thread...

I know my BMW has a water line that goes to the intake it is for the idle system, while the water running past it is cold the idle is modified accordingly and as it warms up again the idle is compensated.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: Robert on May 10, 2014, 12:03:22 AM
Try a mitey mite vacuum pump, and some adaptors. Pull a vacuum to remove air in system.
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: 01Lambiero on May 11, 2014, 11:44:40 AM
Timmer: Where do you fill your cooling system?  Do you have a pressurized purge container?  Where do your radiator hoses connect to the radiator?  What is the highest point in your cooling system that has coolant in it? 
Title: Re: over heating
Post by: timmer on May 12, 2014, 06:00:12 PM
The rad was in the front of the car,  almost laying down there are pics in the thread..  The car is in the garage now I am having the rad moved to the back in the engine bay, there is a lot of room there to put it and raise it above the engine this way it can be filled correctly and not have air pockets in it..  we are leaving the air condition stuff still up front and that way that and the rad would not be competing for cooler air.  I am hoping this is going to work ... will let you know..    with the rad back in the back there are a lot of vents to pull air from and cool the rad with a new fan 3000 cmf fan and shroud