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How To - Tips => Electrical => Topic started by: usmc_butler on August 13, 2012, 10:01:22 AM
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This thread will be my ongoing progress of my paddle shifter setup for my Seabring Column. Helpful input will be accepted however this is one of those threads where everybody has there own opinion of what they think is "Right Way". So unless you have something helpful or beneficial to add, your post will be deleted. I know things can always be done "better" or "approved upon" so this is just one way of doing this.
First thing I did was make a templet that would act as my base plate that fit inside of the column cover, added 4 holes where the original airbag sensor originally screwed to, then test fit where I wanted the paddles to sit, I used the Plasma and cut the base out of 16 gauge sheet metal and test fit it with the column cover.
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Ok not much other then the obvious here, just getting things where they will work and clear everything. For the pivot I went to lowes and got 2- 2" small push pens (ill try to find a picture later) I tach welded them in place directly in between the 2 screws on each paddle, allowing the paddles to swivel with aprox 1/4 in swivel each way.
Several things to note here when getting your paddles setup. Your turn signal lever will need to clear the paddle for a right turn, also need to insure that you can engage your high beam lights and last the paddles need to set out far enough to clear the center of the steering wheel.
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The paddles pivot freely right now and clear everything. I am trying to find a couple nice momentary switches with good springs. They will be mounted in the center bottom of the column where the old airbag plugs went (lots of room behind the base plate here). Still need to trim the upper Seabring column cover to fit the paddles, install momentary push switches to activate software that will run the actuator, design some sort of puck to push the momentary switches (similar to what Murci-Me used), wiring, etc.
I will keep this thread updated as I progress through this part of the build.
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Continuing on, last night I trimmed the seabring column cover. Since I mounted my paddles a little higher then normal to clear the turn signal & high/low beam switch I only had to trim the upper column cover piece and not the lower.
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Here is a short video of how they work minus the momentary switch installed. Forgive me it was filmed on my iPhone.
(http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/dustin_butler/?action=view¤t=IMG_9484.mp4)
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Got my switches in the mail last night and mounted, my paddle extensions will be finished this evening. I will drill, tap and thread in new bolts into the paddles to mount the paddle extensions tonight and make a video to show how it works. I bolted this into the column last night and everything clears very nicely with plenty of room for wiring!
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Looking good!
Chris
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Here are a few more pictures... Pictures speak louder then words, If you have any questions feel free to ask. ::LAMBO
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Way cool!!! Did you get a pic of the "lowes push pins"? Im really interested in seeing how you mounted them....
Great Work!!!
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Tony sorry for the late reply, Next time I run to lowes ill get a picture of them. A little description of them are; they are 2" long (just short enough to go in between the OEM paddle holes) and they are small round (a little bigger then a #2 pencil lead) and all I did is put several tach welds to hold it in place, only to act as a pivot.
Here is a video of the final fitment of the paddle setup, movement and sound.
(http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/dustin_butler/?action=view¤t=IMG_9524.mp4)
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Since your paddle shifter is stationary, how much clearance is needed between the paddles and the steering wheel? Looking good. ::thumbup
Jim
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Are you talking about the pucks that attach to the paddles behind the steering wheel? The momentary switches are adjustable by about a 1/4 inch I have them adjusted about 1/2 way right now and im still about 1/8 inch from touching the steering wheel base with the pucks. If those were adjusted, in or out, it would either bring your paddles closer or further away for the outer part of the steering wheel.
Did that answer your question?
Dustin
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Not exactly, usmc. I meant if you're turning a corner and usually you hang on to the steering wheel. Do you have 1" clearance between your knuckles and the paddles? The paddles look cool. 01Lambiero
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OK, maybe this will help. There is plenty of clearance between the paddles and wheel just enough for your finger tips to round the corner on the paddle. If you look the signal lever is a little closer then the paddles also.
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There we go! Looking good. What trans are you using? Jim
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Looks good. I sure would like a set of those paddles for my rig. Sense I already have a tiptronic trans it would be a little easier on the install for me. Keep up the good work. ::beers
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Im using a the factory HD tranny that comes with the SC3800.
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I changed the heading on this thread to further document how I will control my shift setup. JB1 has been helping me on the design and told me what to order. I ordered all of this from pololu.com (there customer support is fantastic). You will first need a Arduino Mega (has more outputs for LED display, etc), second you will need a actuator with feedback (Concentric LACT4P-12V-20) it is a 12 volt 4" actuator very heavy duty and last a controller. I called Pololu and they recommend using the JRK 21v3 it is a USB controller with feedback and fully assembled.
I will use the factory Reverse button located on the 5 button switch left of the column (thank you Digibeam for pointing that out) and the E-gear plate will have P (park) N (neutral) and haven't decided to go with M (manual) or D (drive) on the last button.
The way the code will be written is what ever button you push the actuator will go into that gear on the tranny. The only way the paddles will be functional will be in gears 1-Drive and Drive-1 (cant use the paddles to go into Neutral, Reverse or Park for safety reasons). The code will be written in which all a person will have to do is change the number in the code for the correct distance between the gears for there setup or delete a line if they don't have a gear (example 3 speed tranny vs. 4 speed tranny). VERY SIMPLE don't over think it...!
All electronics will run off your car battery everything is rated at 12 Volts. I am still looking for the correct LED or Dot Matrix display for the OEM dash overlay. JB1 is working on a OEM type digital miles counter and a few other things as well, so much more to come!
Here are a few pictures
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AWSOME stuff!
Keep it up bro!
I need to learn this ASAP!
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This is great Dustin, hope you get this all sorted out soon so I can start working on it myself. Do you have your e-gear setup and buttons yet?
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I am wondering what the controller is being used for. Can't the arduino run the actuator on it's own? I did buy it though so I hope I'll need it as my setup won't be as complicated. I only need to move the actuator 3 or 4 different positions and that's all.
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Arduino will not run the actuator it is just a control board that takes low voltage and sends it. Similar a switch to a relay
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Got a video of progress! This weekend I am going to make a small box for all of the electronics so hopefully it will fit under the e gear plate in the car. I gotta give Alan my programer some big thanks for the code if it wasn't for him we wouldn't have this done right now. He said "he accepts donations" or Redbull (PM me for his info if your interested!)
BETA Testing Paddle shift E-Gear (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcyYFjlePi0#ws)
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Gotcha! I'm still paranoid about my actuator getting the wrong signal somehow, like a short and deciding to go into park or reverse whle I'm cruising.
My only problem with that would be if you break down or loose power. As soon as power is regaind the code would put the car back into park. 99% of the time you would hit the park button when you park the car.
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Ok, got lots done this weekend on the setup and happy to say it works great! After further thought and reading the replies and concerns over the "Power Loss Park issue" I have decided to pull that line of code, so if there is a power loss or "Glitch" nothing would change, the car would stay in whatever gear it was in like nothing changed.
I have another small parts list of things that will need to be purchased to complete the setup. Everything at Radio Shack was less then $20 dollars total. See pictures below \/ \/ \/ \/ \/
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Here is pictures of the bracket that I will be using. Very simple design, just a piece of angle iron that bolts to the tranny and then to the actuator and I removed the factory shift lever and drilled out the factory stud and replaced it with a fine thread bolt and shim.
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Here is the box that i used to mount the electronics in. Just so everybody knows the Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive and Paddle buttons are momentary switches and "cannot exceed" 5 volts to the Arduino board so with that being said you can do 2 things. Use the power from the Arduino board, it has 2 5 volt outputs (what I will be doing) or just put inline resistors on each switch.
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Here is a short video going from Park to 1st. I was running it from my laptop and didn't have my shift points set yet so this video is just one solid movement. (doesn't stop for any gears). I will finnish the programing of MY shift points and update with a new video this week. My axles will be done today or tomorrow so i should be able to do a running test ::toothy
BETA Testing Paddle shift E-Gear 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1zxJv3g5zY#ws)
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Looks sweet
What guage wire are you using and is it solid or stranded?
Are you guys replicating the egear buttons? I have the plate pieces but no buttons :\
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awsome set up!
So let me get this straight...
you have this moving only for everyday automatic tranmission shifting, like P,R,N,D,1-2 etc?
How do you control the movement from P to D? Paddle?
thanks, sorry for being a dummy.
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looking good man, I been so busy at work I have not messed with any of this in a long time, Glad to see you have it up and going....
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Looks sweet
What guage wire are you using and is it solid or stranded?
Are you guys replicating the egear buttons? I have the plate pieces but no buttons :\
Tallon thanks for answering questions. I have been busy perfecting this setup and getting a good wiring harness built. As for the wire I am mostly using 18 to 20 gauge wire. However inside the box you will need to use the little electronics jumper wires like these on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/280955809438?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/280955809438?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) . The rest of the wires I used from old computers and random wires and plugs from cars at the pick and pull.
On the e-gear buttons we are working on duplicating them, Digibem is working on it as well as SchulzeA. SchulzeA is actually working on aluminum button that the momentary switch will slide into and mount, It can be powder coated satin black to match OEM or polished, whatever you prefer. I have no idea on the cost yet. Hopefully we will find out soon, he got MARRIED this weekend so might be a week or so before we get any work out of him ::angel
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Finally done! In car testing tonight, even though my axles won't be done atleast I will be able to install, test and shift! Tomorrow I will will post up a link to the code, it will be open source! I am not responsible for any damages this may or may not cause, use at your own risk! You may edit the code to your custom use! I will post exact links to hook up the system with picture's. If you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, shoot me a PM and will be able to help you....! This hopefully will be a good breakthrough and hope this helps everyone ::LAMBO
Dustin
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I am really hoping this works great!
I wouldn't mind using this in my fiero now!
Good stuff Dustin!
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The paddle shift computer is very cool. You can incorporate your programming knowledge towards an adjustable spoiler now :)
::K I will be working on projects this week with any available time. ::K ::beers
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The paddle shift computer is very cool. You can incorporate your programming knowledge towards an adjustable spoiler now :)
::K I will be working on projects this week with any available time. ::K ::beers
YOU ARE MY HERO ::salute Working on cars on your honeymoon :P
Congratulations on your marriage, wish you all the best.
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Congrats Alan!
Wow wedding and lambo? Don't think I could afford all of that any time soon.
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Congrats Alan!!! ::bounce ::wave ::thumbup ::headbang Best to learn the Hard Facts now. You can't afford either!! I have some scrap iron and my wife has the checkbook;-) ::thumbup But my honeymoon is OVER. ::headbang
Jim ("I'm the KING of nothing" Alice Kramdon)
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The paddle shift computer is very cool. You can incorporate your programming knowledge towards an adjustable spoiler now :)
::K I will be working on projects this week with any available time. ::K ::beers
The adjustable spoiler and bat wings would be fairly simple, There use to be a module that could convert the vss signal to trigger a relay at a given speed all you would need then would be limit switches....
If I get time to work on the odometer etc then it should not be a big deal, I spoke to USMC about that before on driving the bat wings using the vss that way you could have the raise at 60mph or whatever speed you set and lower when drop below set speed... I remember finding the module several years ago and made a post on MM about it, seems then it was around $70..
I'm working near 70 hours a week but if I get time I will play with the vss controlled bat wings and spoiler some.. Usmc will probably get closer to finishing something like that long before me due to time.. I'm really impressed with what he has done from the few short conversations on the paddle shift from few months ago...
BTW, Congrats....
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Thanks guys!!! I feel blessed to have found such a good woman. She likes me busy in the shop and enjoys helping when possible.
I have to financially recover before taking a honeymoon, so back to work for me.
I'm drawing up the egear console plate and buttons right now :)
For the spoiler/bat wings- I was thinking of using an encoder and scale system. You would get the reading from the speed sensor, into the encoder, into the scale which then would power a 12v actuator. It would provide fluid movement of the spoiler and wings instead of moving a certain distance and stopping through out its min to max movement. You can get all of the stuff required from mini cnc suppliers, but it needs a simple pc and program to operate...
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Do these help?
Chris
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Pics are great. Thank you
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Thanks for the close up pics Bull ::thumbup On my E-Gear plate instead of having Sport, Corsa & Traction. I will prob just do P, N, D on the top of the buttons. ON the spoiler and bat wings they would be easy to activate from the Arduino if we can figure out how to get some sort of feedback into the system.
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Here are a few pictures of the box before it was sealed and after. Also is a video I shot last night of it installed and working.
BETA Testing Paddle shift E-Gear 3 (installation) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnN8E3JT6Wc#)
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Do I really need neutral? I'd like to keep sport because I can change modes on mine, then Park and drive. Or maybe have neutral as a button somewhere else but not sure where.
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Here is how the the JRK hooks up to the Actuator with feedback, another picture of the generic gear locations on the code and the last picture is of the DOT matrix display that will go behind the OEM dash (code still needs to be written Digibeam is working on it ::beers)
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Tallon you can just hook the JRK up to the computer via usb and the JRK up to your Actuator with feedback using the picture in the post above and make the actuator move. You can also mount the Actuator to the transmission and write down the points of all your gears so then I can put it into the code.
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The "VIN" and "GND" on the JRK actuator control unit will be a 12 volt power supply from your battery. If the actuator wont move that may be the problem.
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Great work! Any chance of a wiring diagram to show how the 2 computer and the motor controller are connected together and the switches are tied into the system.
Thanks for sharing your work.
Thanks
Joe Sokol
www.fieroking.com (http://www.fieroking.com)
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I'm impressed!
Anyone up to taking on a challenge?
http://lamboclone.com/index.php?topic=343.msg4357#msg4357 (http://lamboclone.com/index.php?topic=343.msg4357#msg4357) ::headbang
Chris
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Getting the speed in there is as simple as adding a GPS module and writing the code to look at the speed and trigger actuator position based on the GPS data.
Example:
1. 0 - 5mph @ 3 seconds = Home (down) position
2. 6 - 30mph = position 1 (1/4 way)
3. 31 - 60mph = position 2 (1/2 way)
4. 61 - 200mph = position full up (no 3/4 position because someone behind you wouldn't notice it)
GPS modules typically put out a series of standard strings of information, under something called the National Marine Electronics Association (NMEA) protocol. More information on NMEA standard data strings can be found at this site
The tutorial code at the bottom of this page demonstrates how to decode and display the most common string, called $GPRMC. If all you need is date, time and position, you can to skip reading this, and just run the code below.
While you can write software to serially request other strings from the Parallax module, the following strings are automatically transmitted when the "/RAW" pin is pulled low.
$GPGGA: Global Positioning System Fix Data
$GPGSV: GPS satellites in view
$GPGSA: GPS DOP and active satellites
$GPRMC: Recommended minimum specific GPS/Transit data
Each of these sentences contains a wealth of data. For example, here are a few instances of the $GPRMC string, aka the "Recommended minimum specific GPS/Transit data" string:
eg1. $GPRMC,081836,A,3751.65,S,14507.36,E,000.0,360.0,130998,011.3,E*62
eg2. $GPRMC,225446,A,4916.45,N,12311.12,W,000.5,054.7,191194,020.3,E*68
225446 Time of fix 22:54:46 UTC
A Navigation receiver warning A = Valid position, V = Warning
4916.45,N Latitude 49 deg. 16.45 min. North
12311.12,W Longitude 123 deg. 11.12 min. West
000.5 Speed over ground, Knots
054.7 Course Made Good, degrees true
191194 UTC Date of fix, 19 November 1994
020.3,E Magnetic variation, 20.3 deg. East
*68 mandatory checksum
eg3. $GPRMC,220516,A,5133.82,N,00042.24,W,173.8,231.8,130694,004.2,W*70
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
1 220516 Time Stamp
2 A validity - A-ok, V-invalid
3 5133.82 current Latitude
4 N North/South
5 00042.24 current Longitude
6 W East/West
7 173.8 Speed in knots
8 231.8 True course
9 130694 Date Stamp
10 004.2 Variation
11 W East/West
12 *70 checksum
Chris
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I am working on a factory style odometer with trip meter,
I am using a basic black on green lcd , trying to find one green on black like factory but programming should be same... from looks of it , it might not be to bad at all to make the wings function based on speed, not looked to much into temp but probably would not be hard either. which would be preferred bat wings based on speed or temp?
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Batwings and temp is easy, just hook your actuator to your fan relay so when your fans come on your wings rise. The only 1/2 tricky part is at around 80 the wings need to come down so they don't get ripped off from the wind speed ::beers
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Here is what everyone is waiting for this is the wiring diagram::thumbup
Some stuff is kind of confusing the top right picture is your car battery or 12 volt power supply. The motor simulates the Actuator with feedback (the diagram I used didn't have a actuator). Make sure your communication (tx & rx) between the two are reversed so there is communication between the Arduino and the JRK.
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And here is the CODE! Remember use at your own risk this is NOT advised to use on any automobile on or off road and I take NO liability for ANY damages that may occur ::beers
/*
This code is to used to move an actuator to 7 different positions.
This code is provided as is with no warranty.
*/
#include <SoftwareSerial.h>
#define rxPin 3 // pin 3 connects to SMC TX
#define txPin 4 // pin 4 connects to SMC RX
#define resetPin 5 // pin 5 connects to SMC nRST
#define errPin 6 // pin 6 connects to SMC ERR
SoftwareSerial smcSerial = SoftwareSerial(rxPin, txPin);
// some variable IDs
#define ERROR_STATUS 0
// define our stop points
#define pos7 3900
#define pos6 3300
#define pos5 2800
#define pos4 2300
#define pos3 1900
#define pos2 1600
#define pos1 1400
int currentPos = 5;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600); // for debugging (optional)
smcSerial.begin(9600);
//On first power move the selected value.
changePosition(currentPos);
// clear the safe-start violation and let the motor run
exitSafeStart();
//Setup our digital pins for input mode.
pinMode(22, INPUT);
pinMode(26, INPUT);
pinMode(30, INPUT);
pinMode(34, INPUT);
pinMode(38, INPUT);
pinMode(42, INPUT);
}
void loop() {
// Debuging code for looping through the digital ports.
//for (int i = 0; i < 50; i++) {
//place actuator in position 7
if (digitalRead(22) == 1) {
currentPos = 7;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
// break;
}
//place actuator in position 6
if (digitalRead(26) == 1) {
currentPos = 6;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
//break;
}
//place actuator in position 5
if (digitalRead(30) == 1) {
currentPos = 5;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
//break;
}
//place actuator in position 4
if (digitalRead(34) == 1) {
currentPos = 4;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
//break;
}
if (currentPos <= 4) {
//move up
if (digitalRead(38) == 1 && currentPos < 4) {
Serial.println("Move up");
currentPos = currentPos + 1;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
//break;
}
//move down
if (digitalRead(42) == 1 && currentPos > 1) {
Serial.println("Move down");
currentPos = currentPos - 1;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
//break;
}
}
/*
//Debugging code to read digital ports. Used with the for loop above.
Serial.print("Digital port: ");
Serial.print(i);
Serial.print(":");
Serial.println(digitalRead(i));
delay(10);
}
*/
/*
Serial.print("Current Position: ");
Serial.println(currentPos);
Serial.println("--------------------");
*/
//Pause the loop for a moment.
delay(100);
//check for any errors on the error pin.
if (digitalRead(errPin) == HIGH)
{
Serial.print("Error Status: 0x");
Serial.println(getVariable(ERROR_STATUS), HEX);
// once all other errors have been fixed,
// this lets the motors run again
exitSafeStart();
}
}
//moveMotor based on number.
void changePosition(int positionNum) {
switch (positionNum) {
case 7:
moveMotor(pos7);
break;
case 6:
moveMotor(pos6);
break;
case 5:
moveMotor(pos5);
break;
case 4:
moveMotor(pos4);
break;
case 3:
moveMotor(pos3);
break;
case 2:
moveMotor(pos2);
break;
case 1:
moveMotor(pos1);
break;
}
}
// returns the specified variable as an unsigned integer.
// if the requested variable is signed, the value returned by this function
// should be typecast as an int.
unsigned int getVariable(unsigned char variableID){
smcSerial.write(0xA1);
smcSerial.write(variableID);
return readByte() + 256 * readByte();
}
// required to allow motors to move
// must be called when controller restarts and after any error
void exitSafeStart(){
smcSerial.write(0x83);
}
// read a serial byte (returns -1 if nothing received after the timeout expires)
int readByte(){
char c;
if(smcSerial.readBytes(&c, 1) == 0){ return -1; }
return (byte)c;
}
//Move the actuator to a target value
void moveMotor(int motorTarget) {
word target = motorTarget;
smcSerial.write(0xAA);
smcSerial.write(0x0B);
smcSerial.write(0xC0 + (target & 0x1F));
smcSerial.write((target >> 5) & 0x7F);
}
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Thanks Dustin! ::angel
are there parts to the breadboard wiring I don't need?
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You will not need to last 2 buttons, they are for the paddles and you are using the triptronic function. Everything else you will need.
You don't need the little LED I just put that there to verify power...
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thanks Dustin, your code is about half as long as what I was working with, Great work!
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Here is a resource link explaining the use of the 10K ohm resistors and why the are needed.
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Button (http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Button)
http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Switch (http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Switch)
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Thanks Dustin! ::angel
are there parts to the breadboard wiring I don't need?
Do not needbread board, solder all connections , you ca buy break away pins at pololu to connect at arduino
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Oh sorry I meant because I'm not using the paddleshift stuff just egear I'm using audi trans. I just made mine with 3 buttons.
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Thank you for sharing your work. You save me a lot of time.
Joe Sokol
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Here is a wire diagram for a 3 position switch and code. Did this for Tallon
/*
This code is to used to move an actuator to 3 different positions.
This code is provided as is with no warranty.
*/
#include <SoftwareSerial.h>
#define rxPin 3 // pin 3 connects to SMC TX
#define txPin 4 // pin 4 connects to SMC RX
#define resetPin 5 // pin 5 connects to SMC nRST
#define errPin 6 // pin 6 connects to SMC ERR
SoftwareSerial smcSerial = SoftwareSerial(rxPin, txPin);
// some variable IDs
#define ERROR_STATUS 0
// define our stop points
#define pos3 1900
#define pos2 1600
#define pos1 1400
int currentPos = 1;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600); // for debugging (optional)
smcSerial.begin(9600);
//On first power move the selected value.
changePosition(currentPos);
// clear the safe-start violation and let the motor run
exitSafeStart();
//Setup our digital pins for input mode.
pinMode(22, INPUT);
pinMode(26, INPUT);
pinMode(30, INPUT);
}
void loop() {
// Debuging code for looping through the digital ports.
//for (int i = 0; i < 50; i++) {
//place actuator in position 3
if (digitalRead(22) == 1) {
currentPos = 3;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
// break;
}
//place actuator in position 2
if (digitalRead(26) == 1) {
currentPos = 2;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
//break;
}
//place actuator in position 1
if (digitalRead(30) == 1) {
currentPos = 1;
changePosition(currentPos);
delay(1000);
//break;
}
/*
//Debugging code to read digital ports. Used with the for loop above.
Serial.print("Digital port: ");
Serial.print(i);
Serial.print(":");
Serial.println(digitalRead(i));
delay(10);
}
*/
/*
Serial.print("Current Position: ");
Serial.println(currentPos);
Serial.println("--------------------");
*/
//Pause the loop for a moment.
delay(100);
//check for any errors on the error pin.
if (digitalRead(errPin) == HIGH) {
Serial.print("Error Status: 0x");
Serial.println(getVariable(ERROR_STATUS), HEX);
// once all other errors have been fixed,
// this lets the motors run again
exitSafeStart();
}
}
//moveMotor based on number.
void changePosition(int positionNum) {
switch (positionNum) {
case 3:
moveMotor(pos3);
break;
case 2:
moveMotor(pos2);
break;
case 1:
moveMotor(pos1);
break;
}
}
// returns the specified variable as an unsigned integer.
// if the requested variable is signed, the value returned by this function
// should be typecast as an int.
unsigned int getVariable(unsigned char variableID){
smcSerial.write(0xA1);
smcSerial.write(variableID);
return readByte() + 256 * readByte();
}
// required to allow motors to move
// must be called when controller restarts and after any error
void exitSafeStart(){
smcSerial.write(0x83);
}
// read a serial byte (returns -1 if nothing received after the timeout expires)
int readByte(){
char c;
if(smcSerial.readBytes(&c, 1) == 0){ return -1; }
return (byte)c;
}
//Move the actuator to a target value
void moveMotor(int motorTarget) {
word target = motorTarget;
smcSerial.write(0xAA);
smcSerial.write(0x0B);
smcSerial.write(0xC0 + (target & 0x1F));
smcSerial.write((target >> 5) & 0x7F);
}
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JRK 21v3 actuator settings (sorry forgot about posting this earlier). This is how mine is set up the PID settings can be changed however the schematics is over my head when it came to those figures
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IT'S ALIVE! works :D Thanks Dustin
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Mine is alive also. I aet mine up to go to Park when the power is cycled. Thanks again Butler for sharing your work.
Joe Sokol
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Here is a Youtube video of mine controller working
2012 11 08 11 00 32 980 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbLzpjineU4#ws)
Joe Sokol
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Why does it only have 4 positions, and why do you have 4 switches? Aren't you going to hook this up to your paddles?
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The Engine/Transmission used with this setup is the LS4 4T65E HD from a Pontiac Grand Prix GXP. The transmission comes with Tap Shift built in. The Gear selector in the GXP cockpit has Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive and Manual. When in the manual position the paddles on the steering wheel control the shifting of the transmission both up and down. The transmission will not shift unless you command it, other than it shifts to 1st if you come to a stop. That is why I only need 4 buttons.
Joe Sokol
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Looks great guys and it's cool to see it working in a video. I ordered the stuff last night to build a controller that will operate my rear spoiler by GPS (vehicle speed) and and off the same controller I'll automatically control the position of my bat wings off my engine temperature. I'm trying new 32 bit ARM processor version called the Arduino Due. I'll have a set of rocker switches on the console to allow bypass mode so I can also control them manually or automatically.
Chris
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Thanks, Joe glad I could help! Also can't thank Alan and Jb1 enough for the help and motivation! ::beers Looks good ::headbang, I just ordered the new 12 V linear actuator with the speed of 1.5 in/s thats twice as fast as the one I have now! Im going to take the one I am currently using and put it on my batwings...
Dustin
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The Engine/Transmission used with this setup is the LS4 4T65E HD from a Pontiac Grand Prix GXP. The transmission comes with Tap Shift built in. The Gear selector in the GXP cockpit has Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive and Manual. When in the manual position the paddles on the steering wheel control the shifting of the transmission both up and down. The transmission will not shift unless you command it, other than it shifts to 1st if you come to a stop. That is why I only need 4 buttons.
Joe Sokol
Where are those 4 buttons located on the real Murcielago?
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Mike, I guess I don't understand your question? You know where every button is located as well as anybody does on the Murci... My plan (as listed earlier in the thread) it to use the OEM Reverse button left of the column for the reverse and the E-gear buttons for Park Neutral and Manual (Drive). However I recently found out that on the original e-gear Lamborghini's, to get the tranny into neutral you hold both paddles back for 2 seconds so I will probably change my code, since it will be an easy fix and be more original.
Hope this answers your question ::thumbup
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Well, I guess I misunderstood what you were doing lol! I thought the four switches you were installing were hooking up to the paddles somehow, and that didn't seem possible. I thought I knew what all the switches did on the actual car, so it confused me when you said you were mounting them in the E-gear plate.
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usmc_butler .... you are the man for making it available to all of us
Fieroking : its great that you are able to build these from his prints / design you guys both done a great job ,Very impressed , happy to have both of you on OUR site ...... Kudo,s to you both ::salute ::thumbup ::K ::headbang ::beers
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I totally forgot to upload a video of the controller that Dustin built for me, thanks buddy ::beers ::K
It works awesome and it is super easy to install, here is a small video that I made a while back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSTTnaeTWmU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSTTnaeTWmU)
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Nice!!!