LamboClone - The Premier Site for Lamborghini Replica Builders
How To - Tips => Hood - Engine Covers => Topic started by: Jets303 on November 13, 2012, 07:29:41 PM
-
Does anyone have any good pictures of the oem hood/trunk hinges? I have been working on the underhood Bart sent me (badass by the way!) and need to get an idea of what those hinges look like. I've built two different sets and they are not working out. Thanks in advance
-
hope this helps a little :)
-
Good stuff Mike thanks!
-
The OEM Lambo hinges mount up on those little triangles on the upper corners of the panel. John Watson showed me the two different styles (a early and later version). The hinge will need to open really wide to accommodate the steep angle the hinges are mounted at.
The first person that figures out an accurate donor part and posts the "How To" will win my admiration and respect. ::toothy
Thanks,
Chris
-
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/Murcielago-TRUNKHINGE.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b138/italianknightrider/Murcielago-TrunkHingetxt.jpg)
mounting steel bar 1"w X 1/8"t X 14" long ....... the end toward the head light it kicks outward for a button head rivet or bolt from the inside with a strut mounting ball on that end for the support shock
triangle pad has a side support to each out side .....so angle iron should be used like 1" X 3" ....or so
-
I see what you mean Chris. I built one kind of like the OEM one IKR but the tricky part is the "swing" angle isnt 90 degrees. It steps out then up (if that makes sense) and then needs to revert back to its original position. Ive been working with a mechanical engineer here at work and we may have drawn something out in solidworks that may work. I will keep this thread posted.
-
I see what you mean Chris. I built one kind of like the OEM one IKR but the tricky part is the "swing" angle isn't 90 degrees. It steps out then up (if that makes sense) and then needs to revert back to its original position. Ive been working with a mechanical engineer here at work and we may have drawn something out in solidworks that may work. I will keep this thread posted.
Get it figured out and build a set that works well and I'll be a customer for sure if the price is reasonable. I'm sure some builders are shaking their heads and wondering why all the fuss about how the panel opens or what it looks like underneath but for me it's all about the finish and I want the quality extended to any panel that opens up.
Patiently standing by and awaiting updates on your progress. :)
Chris
-
Good luck in the hinge Jett's! I'll be either worming on this soon or looking for a set to buy also. I got a inner hood from Bart also. Any updates you your build thread?
Dustin
-
sounds good Chris I will keep you posted.
Ya Ive had a few Dustin but its on the other site. Im just getting all the wiring cleaned up in the engine bay before I take a video. I may start on the engine paneling as well but for now I need to get these hinges figured out!
-
Hi,
I have taken a picture of the hinges side by side , open and closed . Hopefully that will clarify the necessity of having all the pivot points in line with each other - all in the same plane . I started by looking for vehicles with tapered body panels , e.g the new VW beetle - but they angle the wrong way, couldn't see a way of swapping them side to side.
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/Bonnethinges-closed4735.jpg)
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/Bonnethinges-open4736.jpg)
I have started to draw them up in CAD if of interest to anyone .
Also they are a tight fit and only just fit in the space in the water run channel.
Regards , Neil ::wave
-
Thanks Neil.
If you have any measurements or drawings to share, that would be awesome.
Chris
-
String great info thanks for sharing ::thumbup
-
Well , I have drawn up a pair of hinges , phew.. I think I would get hold of a pair of boot hinges to at least remove the pivot pins and washers to re-use.Then some bending of some 2mm bar might see a set done. The small pin in the mount plate - between the hinge pins is an absolute must , otherwise the hinge would tend to go over-centre and lock up.
Closed position
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/BonnethingePairassembledfullyclosed.jpg)
open position
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/BonnethingePairassembledfullyextended.jpg)
What is the best format & where to post ?
-
The drawings are amazing and it makes one thing clear to me... they are pretty complex. :)
Posting them here like you have it is good. I'm personally going to look for a set from a salvage car and try to avoid the $250 they are asking for each side brand new (plus struts).
Now that we know you have some mad CAD skills, are you interested in volunteering to do a drawing for mounted door hinges and how they should be mounted on a G28? Getting the angles and measurements correct so the doors clear the fenders in the up position is still a bit of a mystery and it's probably one of the most asked questions on the site.
I would like to see the drawings based around a G28 body and the OEM style hinges that Jim developed. Documenting this once could make one of the most challenging parts of the build simpler for future builders. I can provide all the measurements if you are willing to assemble everything in a drawing and move the hinges around so they doors open correctly?
Thanks,
Chris
-
Nice! Those pictures and drawings is going to really help! I was able to modify a set of Pontiac Grand Prix hinges and it works well but the pivot angles are still slightly off. I'll post a pic
-
Honda Prelude booth hinges are the same as OEM as i have these on my Lambo (Extreme kit car version) and they work the same as OEM
-
Honda Prelude booth hinges are the same as OEM as i have these on my Lambo (Extreme kit car version) and they work the same as OEM
Are these the hinges you used? (See Picture)
Can you post a couple pictures of them mounted on your car?
Thanks,
Chris
-
I have to clean up my welds and paint everything but at least it works smooth!
-
Now that we know you have some mad CAD skills, are you interested in volunteering to do a drawing for mounted door hinges and how they should be mounted on a G28? Getting the angles and measurements correct so the doors clear the fenders in the up position is still a bit of a mystery and it's probably one of the most asked questions on the site.
I would like to see the drawings based around a G28 body and the OEM style hinges that Jim developed. Documenting this once could make one of the most challenging parts of the build simpler for future builders. I can provide all the measurements if you are willing to assemble everything in a drawing and move the hinges around so they doors open correctly?
Thanks,
Chris
I will quite happily draw up my hinge and the replica you are using , seeing the difference between them should clarify the problem areas . I will post a couple of pics in the door hinge section, this will show the 'offset' that is required and also be in the relevant secton.
::wave
-
I have to clean up my welds and paint everything but at least it works smooth!
Jets.. as usual your car is looking awesome! I love seeing new pictures of it and my motivation level goes up each time I see it. Guys like you are setting a really high standard that the rest of us are following and the result is a new generation of higher quality builds. Could you post some "close ups" of your hinges? It looks like you did some pretty heavy modifications to them. It's hard to make out but in the pictures you posted I can see that you made new triangle mounting sections on the hinges.
Please keep the pictures and build updates coming.. ::headbang
Thanks,
Chris
-
I will quite happily draw up my hinge and the replica you are using , seeing the difference between them should clarify the problem areas . I will post a couple of pics in the door hinge section, this will show the 'offset' that is required and also be in the relevant secton.
::wave
Awesome! Just let me know what G28 measurements you need (if any) and I'll get them for you. I seen your skeleton pictures that you posted in the door section and these really help. I think this is the first time I've ever seen a picture of the hinges from the side that show an obvious curve in the hinge for extra fender clearance. Other pictures that I've seen in the past would make you think that the hinge was just flat casted piece.
Thanks,
Chris
-
Hey thanks Chris, I will post up some pictures after everything is cleaned up and painted.
I mated my two hoods yesterday with some 3M body panel adhesive. This stuff works wonders and it really stiffened up the hoods. Now just body working everything and getting ready for primer
-
More pics
-
Pics
-
Bart really did a great job on those panels for us! ::headbang
Your hood looks awesome and anyone checking it out would assume it's OEM for sure. How much of the edges did your trim back? Is it closing flush with the fenders in the closed position without modifications to the trunk opening ledge? I'm assuming that you bonded some metal inside the hood and tapped / threaded it for your hinges and latches?
Thanks for the pictures and can't wait to see more.
Chris
-
Hinge setup
-
http://youtu.be/wk5nrwniGJI (http://youtu.be/wk5nrwniGJI)
Pre primer
-
Very nice ::beers
-
You've just raised the bar for finished G28 trunks! ::thumbup
Chris
-
Thanks guys, Im not done just yet. Im planning on putting on the perimeter trim ring as well with the oem rubber gasket to seal it up. As close to oem as possible. Stay tuned!
-
Jetts, did you need to modify the trunk ledge that the hood sits on? I've been wondering how thick the panels would be together and once a gasket is laid down if this will push the hood up.
I've seriously been considering splitting the fenders and windshield pillars from my one piece body. I think that the windshield pillar panel should be bonded to the pillars (just like any production vehicle) which would minimize any body flex that would transfer to the body and crack the windshield. Any flexing should be minimal enough that the windshield gasket (adhesive) will absorb it and if the windshield frame isn't strong enough, you'll probably have other problems or soon will. :)
If I separate the fenders, I'll make a new inner trunk section anyhow and the ledge for the trunk panel will become a moot point on my build.
Thanks,
Chris
-
I don't think that the inner panel covers the whole underside of the hood on the oem car if you look at pictures you can see the cars paint around it. My guess is cut the inner hood a little smaller than the hood all around, to look oem anyway. It is a bit thick, though. Would be nice to see the real thing in person.
-
I don't think that the inner panel covers the whole underside of the hood on the oem car if you look at pictures you can see the cars paint around it. My guess is cut the inner hood a little smaller than the hood all around, to look oem anyway. It is a bit thick, though. Would be nice to see the real thing in person.
Hi Tallon.. I think Jetts had to trim this back because my underside panel is as wide as the hood. Bart said that he was going to leave us some edge to trim back if we wanted to. Jetts, did you take it to the edge or trim it back a little? If you trimmed it, how much did you take off?
Thanks,
Chris
-
Yeah mines bigger than the hood and needs trimming also
I was just saying because you asked if the edges of the hood will lay on the body the same but if you do it like oem the panel wouldn't be in the way
-
I trimmed it to fit my hood. On the real hood it appears to be flush with the inner portion painted matte black and outer the same gloss color as the body. I'm going to keep that as well on mine.
I started working on the inner lip and its coming out smoothly. Ill post pics when I can.
-
Wery nice job String!
Hic