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Axles

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eddie:
 check the way I did on my Diablo. Audi shaft cut and joint to S10 shaft
http://lamboclone.com/index.php?topic=454.15

aeauto:
It is not a good idea to use CV joints on one end of the axle and a u-joint on the other because u-joints, by their design, set up a harmonic vibration that is cancelled out when two u-joints are used together on one axle or driveshaft but will be present if only one is used.  I have made adapters to mount CV joints on the Corvette stub axles that have u-joint saddles on them.

norcaldiablo:
As an aside:
I have read that others were considering using the CV side of the Porsche and the CV axle stub of the C5, but read as many responses expressing concern regarding the attaching of the 2 stubs. I have read " Welding of these is not advisable and apparently just will not at all work.", yet Jim Dinner states "Who ever said this is wrong, it works fine and has been in service for years."  (Actually 2 different opinions regarding something to do with a kit car??? NO WAY! ::tongue)

Some have discussed splined tubes press fit over both but I have never read anything about someone actually having such an axle and it working out.

So I now have both ends handled.  Off to the Driveline Shop!

Jim Dinner gave me the part numbers for a slip yoke set which is what will provide the plunge as the suspension moves up and down (changing the dimension between the trans and hub).

My axles came out different from U joint to U joint. They were 24” and 22 ½”,  but certainly don’t use this for your car. You will have to measure it. I installed the hub and axle stub, with the U joint installed, as well as the Porsche end, and measured from this to get it accurate. I was 2 1/2” different on each side.
 

Summation:
Chevy S10 4x4 front hubs.  5 on 4 ¾” bolt pattern.   ($ came with the car)
(19” Corvette wheels fit with the 13” rotors I have)

1984 or 85 Corvette C4 axles: 1 1/8”, (29.5mm)  27 spline axles. 4” long. Get the Nuts!!  (86 to 88 will also work)  ($99 including shipping from redneck)

Porsche trans CV axle ends taken apart. ($ FREE!! From a friend)

The part numbers for the DANA 1350 axle parts are as follows;

3-28-57 - Weld Yoke. One is required on each shaft to weld to the 3" tube, 4 total ($106 for all 4)

3-30598KX Slip Yoke. One on each required  ($123 for 2)

3-40-1101 Spline.  One on each required  ($178 for 2)

3" X 0.083" seamless tube cut to whatever length you need.  ($22 )

2-0053 U joints  ($77 for all 4)

Welding  ($160)

Grand total for 2 axles  $810 including tax.  Im happy as I have seen others paying well over $2000.

I believe if you use the sources Jim Dinner supplies from Ebay (Search for “1350 Driveshaft” – Seller TADDCOM) you could get better pricing. I was just more comfortable working with someone across the counter rather than across the country. However if I did it again I would have no problem using the Ebay parts and suppliers.

Special acknowledgements to Jim Dinner and Sebastian for their help!  Thanks guys!!


I have many pictures but when I try to post them the post will not take??? pm me and I can send them to you.

norcaldiablo:
So I slipped the C clip off the end of the Porsche axle, and with the judicious use of the BFH (Big Effing Hammer! ) got the cup and ball bearings apart, then the whole thing came apart and I was able to get the “Donut” off. The Donut is exactly the same on both ends so only one axle is needed.

The Driveline shop has the weld on yokes in stock. Seem like these are a VERY common part. The shop turned down the outer diameter of the weld on area of the yoke so it becomes a press fit into the donut, then did the welding.

One issue with this is that the yoke covers 2 of the 6 attachment holes. Sebastian told me he had a machine shop make some plates for him. I am going to take a chance here and turn 2 of the 6 bolts into studs, and rely on the other 4 to hold it in place. The bolts fit so tight I believe the shear value will still be present even if the friction is marginally less. I can’t offer anything more that my opinion now and suspect car will not really be on the road for a year so don’t hold your breath for real world testing.

norcaldiablo:
The car came with REALLY COOL 13” rotors and calipers. Also came with 15” wheels, well sort of, Wheels were on non accurate adapters, held on with 2 nuts and a mess of washers. Even with all this it would not roll right.  The hubs are 5 on 4 3/4
 bolt pattern. I tried some 15” and 16” and even 17” wheels and they would not clear the rotors.  I found some Corvette 19” wheels on line and the bolt pattern matched. (It is my plan to get some wheel of any kind and use these as “rollers”. Once I have the car done, I can then know EXACTLY what is wrong with the wheels and tires, backset and such, then order the correct ones.) The wheels went on just fine on the rear. Not the front. I have air bags on the front A arms for lifting the car over speed bumps and the tires hit these, but a bigger problem was the wheels hitting the lower ball joint. Final solution was to order 3 ½” wheel studs (from Summit), and about 1” spacers. Car now rolls fine, but will have to figure out the wheel situation later.

On the other end:

A friend of mine races a Porsche 944, and happened to have some axles he could give me. I was not sure with the year difference and style change if they would work, but they are a direct fit!

Except they don’t really work   Ever have this sort of experience when working on your cars???

These are CV axles, while the Corvette 84 is a U joint style.

The 84 to 88 Corvette C4 is a U joint axle. The 89 on  (the C5 style) were CV joints. I believe some people will use these if trying to get a CV axle, which is supposed to be preferable (I am not sure why).

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