Author Topic: Project Rear Mounted Radiators  (Read 23358 times)

jrule78

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #14 on: May 03, 2013, 07:41:56 PM »
    Thanks Lambiero. I have to say I plagiarized your name for my build. I was just posting what I read on here previously about the rads. Who's to know which way will be better until a couple of builds are done.
     As far as the pressurized coolant tanks. I've been turning wrenches for a few years professionally.  Most newer cars I've worked on only have the one tank. Just suggesting what I think would be a good idea and what Ill be using on my build.

01Lambiero

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #13 on: May 03, 2013, 07:18:50 PM »
jrule78:  You can run your radiators in series or in parallel.  However, if there should be any restriction in one of the radiators, the flow will take the easier route with less cooling.  Be safe and check each radiator with a laser temp gun with a warm engine.  The late model tank is a air-bleed chamber and is connected to the overflow tank.  (subject to change due to variance in manufacturing systems)

Eddie:  Your engine is running too cool.  180-195 is a norm for thermostats.  I would suggest a 10-15 degree increase over the engine stat for a fan switch.   Jim
« Last Edit: May 03, 2013, 07:26:15 PM by 01Lambiero »
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italianknightrider

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We hope our post help someone finish their build or get them interested in our hobby and start a build.

jrule78

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2013, 04:54:00 PM »
   I know I read it on here before. You should run the radiators in parallel . Porsche also runs it that way. As far as the" burping" most newer cars have pressurized overflow containers.  That means the radiator cap is on the overflow tank. Just find one that mounts to your chassis with out to much modification.

01Lambiero

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2013, 03:22:27 PM »
jb1:  It should work fine.  I'm going to install one off of a Buick Century on mine.  (it has a 3/4" hose fitting and a 5/16" fitting on it)  Make sure that it is mounted higher that any other coolant hoses.

Robert:  If you fill an innertube 90% with water and 10% air and hang it on a nail with the valve stem at the bottom, you can apply 15 inches of vacuum on it and the air bubble will remain.  Could you explain your theory of how vacuum will pull out any air pockets?  I may be missing something there.  Jim
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Robert

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2013, 01:20:38 PM »
If you can pull a vacume on the system, it will draw out the air pockets!
Robert, Journeyman experimental mechanic, Journeyman experimental painter.

jb1

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2012, 02:00:50 AM »
has anyone thought of using a  corvette self burping  system ?   The  air pockets are issues with the stock fiero  , there was a guy  a while back that  used a " self burping " as  he called it  I believe , from a newer corvette  on his fiero.  I will see if  I can try and find  a link  on fiero.nl    Not sure if it would be  much  help  but  sure would be worth a try..

eddie

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2012, 06:57:17 PM »
on mine build the rads are mounted vertical and bleeders are plugged. pressured expension tank that goes into water pump tube. heater hose coming out of termostat housing. no termostat installed. but I changed my Japs mini rad fans for Spal 1630cfm/ 20A. it has a 190F sensor to activate fans. I had it run and so far it kicks in 180* and in 2 minutes fans off . tested with laser termo gauge and hoses are 150*. and that is on 3800 S/C gen ll. with the fans that come with the rads  it was hotter and kept on running.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2012, 07:34:03 AM by eddie »

01Lambiero

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2012, 09:18:02 AM »
There are NO silly or dumb questions when building a replica car.

Radiators that are mounted vertically would need the vent fitting on the top of the radiator tank.  If vents are not installed the air bubbles in the system will accumulate in the radiator and cause overheating.  An accessory water pump (Don't buy a cheap one if needed. CSR makes a good one) could be mounted in the "hot" supply line to the radiator if needed.  I would think that it would be operated along with the radiator fans.  Today's cars run a 180-195ΒΊ thermostat.  Radiator fans turn on at approx. 235ΒΊ.  Fuel efficiency and epa requires these temps.  So normally, while on the road, the fan/fans will not even come on as temps hover around the 210ΒΊ range but may come on with A/C operation.  I like a 180ΒΊ stat and a 200ΒΊ fan switch.

01Lambiero
« Last Edit: June 08, 2013, 10:30:51 AM by 01Lambiero »
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No Bull

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2012, 11:04:02 PM »
Silly question.. what if I mount my radiators right side up vs. sideways, how does this affect your diagram?  Will the air bleed fittings need to be mounted somewhere else?  Suggestions for helper water pumps and if so where would you put them in this design?  I have a sensor and relay for my fans and I think I bought the 140 degree version.

Great information and thank you for sharing.

Chris
« Last Edit: April 07, 2012, 11:29:47 PM by No Bull »

01Lambiero

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2012, 10:27:27 PM »
Cooling System 101:
1.   Your hand is a 140ΒΊ thermometer.  If you can hold on to a hose, it is 140ΒΊ or cooler.

2.   The temperature at which coolant will boil will increase 3ΒΊ for each # of release pressure on the radiator cap.  For example: A 15# radiator cap will increase the boiling temperature of the coolant 45ΒΊ.  Thus the coolant will boil at 257ΒΊ (212 + 45).

Warning:  Both items #1 & #2 can cause serious burns. (duh)

You are not paranoid if everyone is out to get you!
« Last Edit: April 10, 2013, 09:58:13 AM by 01Lambiero »
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01Lambiero

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2012, 09:46:28 PM »
Hi Guys,
I hope that my picture helps all who are using twin rear mounted radiators.  Air will get trapped in the upper part of the radiators whether used as cross-flow or vertical flow design.  A fitting has to be welded/added (threaded fitting to accept a brass elbow)  to the top of each radiator and hoses routed to the expansion tank to bleed off the air.  These lines are pressurized to system psi so clamps are needed (3/8" reinforced hose).  A higher pressure cap is installed on each radiator so that no fluid will leave the system.  The 15# cap will vent excessive pressure fluid to the overflow can.   Special thanks to Jim Dinner for his input. (I hope that I got this straight and makes sense);-)
Jim

« Last Edit: June 22, 2016, 08:12:11 PM by 01Lambiero »
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No Bull

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Re: Project Chaos - Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2012, 01:04:25 PM »
Just importing some useful info from Chris for reference!
If you want to mount your radiators in the rear, it's best to remove the stock corners of the Fiero (if this is what you are using for a donor).  I'm attaching a picture of the area I removed and boxed in on mine.  I used some angle iron and made some frames to hold the Civic radiators that would attach to the insides of the boxed in sections.  I ended up going back in and removing more metal which is shown by the lines drawn into the pictures. 

The kicker is that all this work was in vain on my car since I'm going with a custom rear frame now and I'll build new radiator mounting areas on the new frame.  My advice is that if you are looking at an engine swap, relocating the radiators, frame stretch (if not already done) and axle lengthen, you might want to consider going with a custom rear frame attached to the Fiero tub. 

I found that I've wasted a lot of time and money trying to modify a 30 year old Fiero to do things it was never intended to do versus just investing up front in the custom rear frame which would've been the more logical and cost effective way of doing this.

Just some friendly advice from someone who has been there and doing that...  :)

Chris












Thanks again "No Bull" for the good info hope you don't mind that I am sharing this.


Thank you for sharing... this is good stuff and you are doing exactly what I expected the members to do and share information.

Thanks for posting and please keep it coming!

Chris
« Last Edit: April 07, 2012, 11:29:06 PM by No Bull »

usmc_butler

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Project Rear Mounted Radiators
« Reply #1 on: April 02, 2012, 10:33:26 AM »
Radiators and fans

Just for reference and maybe everyone already knows this but; example a Autozone belt number 610K6 is a 61 inch 6 rib belt (Supercharger on my car) and a 815K6 is a 81.5 inch belt with 6 ribs (all other accessories). So if you know your inches of the belt, it is easy to convert to a part number..







« Last Edit: June 10, 2013, 09:21:55 AM by usmc_butler »