Author Topic: Replica chassis corrosion protection  (Read 968 times)

99svmonterey

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Re: Replica chassis corrosion protection
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2016, 04:10:50 PM »
Thanks for the responses Joe and Charlie. I have found your info on LS4 engine swaps very informative Joe and have been following your Chupacabra videos on Youtube as well Charlie. I can't wait to see the finished car. Your use of new technology for the construction I believe will be the start of a new trend in specialty cars.
I had been thinking adhesive might be a way to go if it would would adhere to primed and painted tubing as well as clean metal to metal.

76mx

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Re: Replica chassis corrosion protection
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2016, 11:04:55 AM »
99, I second what Joe just said but would take it a step further. Instead of sheet metal, use aluminum composite material (ACM) to finish it. This is two thin sheets of aluminum sandwiching a polystyrene plastic core, as strong as an equal sheet of aluminum but half of the weight and easy to apply with structural adhesive. There is a tech article I wrote about this in the current July-August issue of Carbuilder Magazine on pages 82-89. It is an online publication, search Carbuilder Magazine. Also, if you check my build diary on YouTube at StricklandRacingInc, you will find more info on construction technique, structural adhesive, and ACM sources.

Fieroking

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Re: Replica chassis corrosion protection
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2016, 10:38:53 PM »
Have you thought about using 3M structural adhesive and pop rivets? It would provide more strength and no heat distortion.

Joe Sokol


Joe Sokol
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WWW.FIEROKING.COM

99svmonterey

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Replica chassis corrosion protection
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2016, 08:01:50 PM »
Hello fellow builders.
I have been a regular reader of this forum for a while but this is my first post. I have a tubular dynamics (or ASCC) diablo replica chassis I am working on and am now cutting sheet metal pieces to start closing it in.
I am wondering how the experienced builders deal with all the areas where the sheet metal covers the tubing with regards to rust protection. All the tubing is still in the raw with mill scale and oxidation as it has sat for quite a few years. If I blast those areas and prime and paint the tubes behind the sheet it will add porosity to the sheet metal welds not to mention the fumes. Should I just clean the tubes and hit them with some weldable primer before welding the sheet metal on ? Is their a better solution?
Thanks for any advice.