Author Topic: what do i need to build a perfect Murcielago Build options ? please help  (Read 14833 times)

Tallon

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got them from whiteracing, cheaper than lambostuff. only problem is you have to keep on the guy to get your parts for a month
I didn't want the intake vents since they look like they can be replicated
« Last Edit: April 16, 2013, 08:46:29 AM by Tᴀʟʟᴏɴ »

jamack

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Tallon great purchase for that price, you canget the whole set though from Lambo for about 1,800.00, there are parts that can be had for cheap if you look around long enough, my build diary will available soon for guys that are interested, I'm charging 1,000.00 a copy I mean heck it does show how to build a Lambo, lol (its free)

Tallon

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honestly the grills costed me 700 shipped minus the little triangles
much better than going with cheap looking grills that ruin the overall look of the car
« Last Edit: April 15, 2013, 04:19:40 PM by Tᴀʟʟᴏɴ »

am33r

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I just want to refine some of what jamack stated.

Non-OEM does not neccessarily mean funky parts! It doesn't have to be like you see it on CKI videos as some of the stuff they put on the cars just to get the car on the road are pure rediculous.

Look, if one pays $4,000 for the exterior kit then there should be no problem at all paying $2,000 for the full set of OEM grills and $1,000 for a pair of OEM Murci tail lights from eBay (If you don't like the older one, cover them smoke - even some real LP640 owners cover their lights smoke). Another thing is that Anyone can construct Perfect Headligts for their Murci 2 to OEM specs for less than $700 so why would you want to buy those OEM. All other exterior OEM exterior lights are $300 in total. There, that covers the whole exterior into looking OEM. A used Lp640 exhaust tip is $1000 so for the car to look OEM on the outside is less than $5K. THAT IS REALLY INEXPENSIVE and I think it is the BEST way to go and a person who wants to spend money to make an exotic car should not compromise such visible quality in parts ::headbang and that is what I bought.

On the other hand, if you want to worry whether the door handle is OEM and the Fuel door is OEM or the license plate light or the headlight sprayer functionality or exactly how many inches do batwings go up... Then good luck
« Last Edit: April 15, 2013, 04:06:56 PM by am33r »

jamack

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Guys let me say it this way, if you don't have the $$$ to buy an OEM car then you best to stay away from OEM parts has they add up quickly, there are some great builds out there that are not OEM style, as I have said on here a few times it all depends what your end result is expected to be. One of the things that gets me though is allot of guys say don't do OEM but then they are dying to get taillights head lights and such so if your not worried about OEM then buy some infinity taillights and do your car full custom, I say this for this reason, I have received many PMs kind of asking me why my build is being done the way it is, my answer is simple everyone on here builds their cars for their taste, budget and desires, my build is being done this way because of the level of performance and style that I am looking for, the car will have just over 500 hp and weigh about 2,500. If I was starting over with a build of a super car it would for sure be one of the race car replicas and that will 100% be the next set up that we do. Reasons, building a one off custom, HP potential, performance, just all the stuff you do when building custom..
« Last Edit: April 15, 2013, 01:46:38 PM by jamack »

notnilc20

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Once you free yourself from the OEM-Mindset you will realize that you can make an amazingly beautiful car with the kit because you are not making a copy of anything.

I like the shape of the Murcielago and it's power, That's all. On the scale of sexy or exotic the interior scores as much as the Camry's inerior does - I mean just compare it to the Huayra's interior.

Even on the outside, I would change MANY things about a Murci. Afterall Lamborghini changed lights, exhaust, grills, wheels, Rockers, and added a Spoiler and several other elements as the car aged in production. I can think of many more things to moddify!

So my advice is "Escape the OEM before it swallows you."

#Justsayin

Good post. I've seen several Murcielago builds end up failing b/c the builder was so concerned about being OEM after awhile interrst was lost or money ran out.

Tusabes

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Agreed
Ive seen much better diablo replica interiors than murci interiors

am33r

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Once you free yourself from the OEM-Mindset you will realize that you can make an amazingly beautiful car with the kit because you are not making a copy of anything.

I like the shape of the Murcielago and it's power, That's all. On the scale of sexy or exotic the interior scores as much as the Camry's inerior does - I mean just compare it to the Huayra's interior.

Even on the outside, I would change MANY things about a Murci. Afterall Lamborghini changed lights, exhaust, grills, wheels, Rockers, and added a Spoiler and several other elements as the car aged in production. I can think of many more things to moddify!

So my advice is "Escape the OEM before it swallows you."

#Justsayin

Tusabes

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I don't want to get in a debate , but that chassis you posted has no relation to a murci kit car. That is a full roll cage with no door opening !!!

. That's a track car cage. It does not relate to a lambo build at all .

No murci build I've seen has a full roll cage , or airbags, or real bumpers , or manufacturer-level safety door beams . 

You can talk about how safe your build "will be" but as of now I'm only going by finished cars . My own and the others I've seen . I have a completed kit and acknowledge these cars aren't safe.  When yours is complete you can show us the safety features


Actually if you come to Carlisle you will see mine in all of its metallic glory,  you are right that is a race car but the point is that because YOU decided NOT to incorporate any saftey into your design does not inherently make replicas less safe than any OE build.

The car shown is a NASCAR chassis and was picked to show how over the top you can go.  In my car I have 1.25 X .120 DOM tubing for intrusion beams and front and rear crumple zones.  So I can say what is in MY car. 

but wait it isnt a Murci.... ::duh


That's my point- I've never seen a Murci kit with OEM level side impact protection/door beams

Here is what the fiero OEM door beams look like - very thick and substantial



Thats a 328 replica . My kit car is a 355 that uses the stock fiero door beams and much of the stock door frames so I am comfortable with the side impact protection level.  But I've never seen any murci have door beam protection . This is why I say they are so unsafe .

RT

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Here is a post I put on kitcentral a while ago about “Why replicas cost so much.

http://www.kitcentral.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=9352&postdays=0&postorder=asc&sid=f699dfbb4f078d8e78b77e78987246dc

Read through the posts and get an idea of what you are in for when you take on building a replica.  If you want the “most accurate replica” be ready for the reality.

Here is a post I put at kitcentral about the replica industry.

I am a builder of my personal Diablo. I understand about the costs.
There have been many discussions here about how expensive these cars are, especially compared to the cost of a used Diablo.
People used to take an old Fiero and attach a fiberglass replica Countach body to it. Flat windshield, plastic side windows that don't go down. Easy.
But then the Diablo came out. So it was off and running. The Fiero now had a Diablo body. Then the call was for an interior to match the Diablo. And of course you should have all the real lights and emblems. While they are at it, the suppliers should really make the angle of that body panel better, it is off by a degree or two. And make that bumper opening a little wider, it isn't perfect yet. C'mon guys get it right! It just means making the mold over, how hard is that?
Now we need to get performance, better than the old 4 cylinder or V6. Make sure the wheels and tires are as accurate as possible. On to better windshields and side glass 'cause the plastic windows and cut-down van windshield aren't good enough. And ya'know, that Fiero suspension isn't good either so let's make better parts. Even with a stretched Fiero chassis, it takes so much work to do that (and it is an old design anyway), you might as well make your own frame with better suspension and brakes. We can't all make a frame so let's buy one from someone who knows how.
More parts from the supplier 'cause we can't be expected to make them all! Now we go to an inline V8 with transaxle. YeeHaa! Better interior covering and gauges! Replica engines! NOW we're talking! These things are almost REAL!
And so is the cost.
I have been caught up in this also. I have spent an awful lot of money just for the parts to make mine look authentic. All the little things add up. Then there is the time it takes to replicate, with perfection, all the details. This is a HOBBY for those who build their own. You have to have the disposable time and money. It is not about making a cheap Diablo.
These are the most difficult replicas to build and will require a lot of time and money. You only get what you pay for.
For those who take on the task of building these cars for customers, I have a lot of respect and wonder how they can make them so inexpensive.
The building is the fun, the reward is a fantastic car.

RT
It isn't enough to want a Lambo, you have to want to BUILD A CAR.

jdinner

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Getting high HP to the ground
You will need the "Stage II SDR-5" ($10,950.00)
http://mendeolapowertrain.com/files/MendeolaPowertrain-web.pdf

OR go with a much cheaper transaxle and do not shock it or try to do a burnout.



lance345

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I am doing a build on a jdm mr2 right now. It's a rev kit, but if you are interested in anything just let me know. My build diary I think shares some of the ups and downs, but any specifics either post or pm me.

Disclaimer - I'm not done, and it's my first build. However, I am through the stretch into the body mounting part, so I think a good chunk of dealing with the donor is done.

jamack

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Honestly you can get different ones worked on and add performance, its more the torqure then HP, please don't take it as the gosple, there are some great cars being built for less but, i think most all of the great ones are 60k plus, I just listed roughly where my build is from the experience,  I'm glad to help with anything I can and share what ever info i have because if I knew then what I know now it would have been a used 640 more so becauset it's getting nice weather here and i would love to be going on a Sunday drive.

mogoes49

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thanks jamack for taking the time to make that list it will deff help out at least for me it will. now i have some since of direction on the build. what transaxle would recommend to hold all the hp down ?

No Bull

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As a first time builder I was a little surprised to have accumulated around $600 in receipts just for hardware (nuts / bolts and misc. fasteners) and I'm not even close to being done yet.  Something as simple as a bolt can add up when you buy good parts that are rust proof and you start buying them in the hundreds.  Weatherstripping is another component that adds up quickly when you buy quality materials and install it in all the places that should have it.

Chris