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Build Diaries => Murcielago => Topic started by: am33r on May 01, 2013, 02:46:49 PM
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I want to thank you all (and the friends on the other few forums) for the valuable info you shared.
Here is my build:
Build Classification (Kit / Donor): G28 / MR2.MKII
Build Option (Power / Style): 4cyl 2.2 NA / Roadster
Build Trim: Inferno (Two tone Orange-Red on Black)
Many of the steps in this build share techniques with other build possibilities. An example of a similar build would be
Classification: John Wattson / Fiero
Option: Turbo / Coupe
Trim: OEM Murcy
I will be refering to this build as "Inferno" for short.
THIS IS A TWO-STAGE BUILD
Stage 1 should end when the car is on the road and can be driven safely and normally. Stage 2 will give attention to functionality like moving windows, trunk space, soft top, windshield wiper, etc.
It's May 1st. and Here we go :)
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::bounce ::headbang ::rocker ::beers ::toothy
::LAMBO
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I will be watching with interest. ::thumbup
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I wanted to start on the build on May 1st. but I worked on it for a few days already to get a head-start
We started with a fully fuctional and dependable vehicle. During the past few days we worked on the donor itself (The MR2). We Fully Gutted the Interior, and Partially Stripped the exterior and under the car in preparation for stretching the car. Here is the car in front of my garage at different stages. I Started the morning by lifting the hood...
This took me 12 hours (8A to 8P) with the help of my brothers who put in 4 hours, 3 hours, and my friend who put in 5 hours (They are all car-experts). I put in the whole 12 of course!
The car is ready for a stretch ::beers
We removed EVERYTHING in the cockpit out of the way by unplugging or disconnecting lines / wires / cables / etc. WITHOUT CUTTING ANYTHING.
Also, under the car, all lines were saved and DISCONNECTED rather than cut.
*If we cut anything it will be when we re-assemble the car for fitting purposes after the stretch.
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hell yeah bang her out ::headbang ameer
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STRETCHING THE MR2 (RESEARCH)
I discussed the stretch with a friend who chops cars for a living and he suggested cutting the car on the sides diagonally. I then drew a non-adjacent cut having around 10" lateral separation (the amount of the stretch) and this was just to make the chassis stronger. I then researched and found out that the gas tank requires larger tunnel area near the rear after the average stretch. So to address both factors I mad a simple illustration that signified both concepts being solved.
Pics labled Am33r are my Concept Cut.
Then I discussed the matter with Mitch - the only friend on this forum who chopped an MR2 - who actually thought it through as well and had already thought a similar concept when he cut his car, and his concept preserved symmetry.
Pics labled Mitch are his Concept Cut.
I didn’t have my MR2 at the time I researched this matter; at the time I sold my MR2 Turbo and had yet to buy the one I have now. Theoretically, we all wanted to improve on the CKI cut because it just didn't LOOK strong enough
I thought about the matter a lot, and my conclusion after a while was that we need a stronger stretch cut than CKI but we don't really need to alter the basics.
1. We are trying to strengthen the chassis by altering the cut when we can strengthen it otherwise. In fact, Mitch had already added steel side bars 3”x3” across the length of the midsection pillars. However, I had to think of it mechanically.
2. To distribute the tension points into more than two adjacent lines creates lateral cutting and welding that doubles the amount in the original design. This additional latitudinal work is in fact “repair” rather than “strength” and will negatively counter the positive effect presumably gained from the redistribution of the points of interest.
3. The rear modification cut – designed to salvage the wider space for fuel tank size is a positive improvement that is only countered by once again the argument above! To create a solution for this matter the new part of the tunnel will just have to be cranked wider.
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STRETCHING THE MR2 (DONE)
Now that I have decided to stick to the straight cut but make it stronger, I figured that since I had to create Space in my Garage, and look for Equipment and tools and make sure everyone is on the same schedule to do this ::duh I would rather take it and chop it at a friend's garage.
I left the middle bar of the t-tops intact on the top of the car along with the windshield and rear pillars to assist in a straight cut. The front wheels were locked straight and the rears were puched straight back since they don't turn. After a few measurments the car was welded back and strangthed thurally with bars extanding inside the rockers and on the outside far enough. They even made the rockers look like the original with edges and curves!
I broght the car home today and Here are the pics.
By the way, the actual work is around 24 hours (three 8 hour shifts). The garage I went to will do it in two-three days.
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GREAT JOB! I liked the idea of sectioning it like you mentioned in the last post but this will be plenty strong and looks like a fantastic job! I'm ready to see a body sitting on this thing by monday! Get to ::rocker
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By Monday ?! Impossible! I am only a few days into the build! I spent only one day on it and a couple of days in the chop-shop.
I will put the body on it after I get it safely running on the road again.
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As for the MR2 I will leave it for a few days and get to work on the Kit itself. I picked up the kit itself a few weeks ago when I also ordered some parts for it.
I have a G28 Exterior Kit only. This is it hovering over the set of wheels & tires I chose for it (My Inferno Theme) I will change a few minor things about the wheels later :). In it is an extra set I have of Lotus Elise seats (Kind-of fits my Inferno theme but I will get a different kind of set for it later).
When I ordere my kit I also ordered the OEM light set and the OEM grill set. The two tail lights I bought from eBay.
* The two tail lights will be Smoked (My Inferno Theme)
* The third stop light will be smoked (My Inferno Theme)
* The 4 Markers I don't weant to use so I ordered a different set that is LED: amber / Smoked (My Inferno Theme)
* The 2 License Plate lights I don't like because they are yellowish so I ordered LED ones that bolt on differently (My Inferno Theme)
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Great start.
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I'd say don't smoke the lights to make it look more OEM . Smoked lights always reminded me of fake lights , but you have real ones so you should show them off proudly
Just IMHO
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Special thanks to you Mitch you've helped me a lot.
I'd love to see more pics of ur car on the road now.
@Tusabes. You are right I will tint them partially to keep their OEM look but the yellow & red will be shaded - not the gray reverse light.
It's just that there are no colored lights on my build and it's just dark everything & orange paint.
The rest of my lights arrive tomorrow I'll post pics of them.
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looks good ameer i think you will end up finishing this rather quicker then you think ::beers
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This weekend I only contributed 4 hours of labor to the MR2. We cut the extra metal off of it, and the kit can now fit on it.
Once I install the “Post-Stretch Systems Reconnection Kit” the MR2 should be ready for the road.
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More parts arrived for the Inferno (The theme of accessories here is partly why I call it Inferno).
The Pic Below:
Top Left: Black Exhaust Tip (4” Inlet with 9” width)
Top Right: Black Two Mirrors with Smoked LED (Glows Amber)
Second Left: Fuel Door (Black Aluminum Round)
Second Right: Smoked LED Side Markers (Glow Amber) to replace the colored OEM ones
Bottom Left: Smoked LED Bullet Lights (Glow Amber) will be the signals in the Headlight
Bottom Mid: Black LED License Plate Lights/Screws combo to replace OEM ones
Bottom Right: LED Ring / HID Headlight with Chrome Ring (Measure 3”)
* I will also be using same type of light for the 2” HID headlight without halo, it has 2” chrome ring
Next, I will be installing all these parts – along with other lights and grills - on the kit. After that I will soft mount the kit on the MR2 once my "MR2-G28 Support Frame" is here.
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“Post-Stretch Systems Reconnection Kit”
HAHA I like that, so technical ::tongue
You got some good parts looks like and making good progress! Get that radiator off, the front trimmed and set the body on for a picture! ::toothy ::beers
Dustin
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Hahah I'm calling things by their names (:
I've been busy but tomorrow I'll work on the kit itself a bit.
I will do the "Kit 101 Preparations" so once I mount it I'll keep it on for a while. I am awaiting a few metal parts for the "Support Frame" I will post tomorrow regarding my impression of what the Support Frame should be like- I will study my Elise Mounts and accommodate afterwards.
I rarely work on it lol but I'll put the kit on the MR2 on Monday and take some pics
::beers
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This week I ended up working on multiple things all at once ::duh I realized I will have no project-by-project update like I did the first week. I am working on three elements all at once:
Preparations to the body kit – The Support Frame – Finalizing the MR2
But I think that within 10 days and as all these three elements are addressed simultaneously I will have a major update and the car should be soft mounted and should drive in a suitable way!
So first: The kit
I have been drawing and writing on the kit for several hours lol its dusty and full of pencil marks. and I am Trying to measure where to place the front and rear grill tabs on the kit! I think I will use 90* bent steel mesh from the local Car Audio Store and glue it to the back/side of the openings corners for the Front & Rear Grills and that way I won’t have to worry about creating the perfect place for a hole.
Then I did some of measurements (although things don’t have to be symmetrical) but I wanted to trim the kit a little especially where I will have it touching the MR2. So I trimmed here and there, and I cut and drilled the holes for the marker lights, and the two holes for the license plate (The screws that hold the plate have LED’s in them).
I started cutting the Exhaust Tip area but I decided it’s just too hot to cut more things lol I really want to cut everything besides the Fuel Door hole by the time I place the kit on the MR2. Also I need to shorten the Rear Diffuser because the way it came it is too long under the car and wont fit on top of the MR2. So that is next on my cutting spree.
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And then the MR2 ;)
No idea what the tires will look like on it but I want the final car low as in my inferno pic hovering over the tires. I tried them on the MR2 and they need to be lowered 3" +/- and that seems true as Mitch said he had to do that too. I also will get 2" spacers all around so I push the tires more out as in my inferno illustration too! I have 18x12 -44 for rear and 18x9 -1 for front. None the less it's obvious the choice is Coilovers (The kind that lowers the car up to 4") I found a set for $1,000.
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Then to the Support Frame!
I tried to get feedback on this part here
http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/technical-discussion-question/17315-support-frame-%5Bg28-roadster-stretched-mr2%5D.html (http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/technical-discussion-question/17315-support-frame-%5Bg28-roadster-stretched-mr2%5D.html)
But of course since there are probably less than 5 completed MR2 murcy builds in the US (three of which are CKI's) I doubt more than a few can relate!
Besides the windshield frame which I have, what I am debating is where the connection/bolting points on the body should be ::scratch
Here is an example pic where most are hidden under front hood, door sills, behind seats, under rear trunk lid, etc.
And the front Crash Zone example drawing I think I will have assembled next week from this metal I ordered to make a 5 piece Removable Support Frame! There are other 4 parts - One rear, one midsection, and two Rockers also (not shown).
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Pretty exciting am33r! I look forward to seeing this thing come together. :)
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Just reconnected all the wires in the cabin (None were cut to start with) - it was just an hour of putting wires back where they belong and plugging harnesses to everything including inside the cruise control box, and re-bolting the starter wire, and other elements I have unplugged to start with. Preliminary wiring is done; I will wire seat belt, door sensors, speakers, etc. once I put the interior together. It is so hot in my driveway 90ºf ::sun so today’s work is over for now! My garage is full of burning man related stuff I should have cleaned all that long ago ::duh
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Is it a good time to primer /POR that bare metal now where your cables are , so it doesn't rust in the future ?
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Yes. I must protect that metal so i"ll do it soon! right after i get the car running this week. And here is my Weather Stripping kit that arrived today!
Door/Trunk/Etc. Cushion Rubber Surround
Rubber Edge Trim
Carpet (Mainly for needed areas in cabin and trunks)
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Just an hour of work on this build today. I sprayed the stretch metal with rubberized undercoating, and I cut the edge of the Rear Diffuser on the kit so it looks nice and symetrical and fits on the MR2 rear trunk area.
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Project Inferno Week 3 Continued
- Spray Painted the stretch metal under the car including inside fuel tank tunnel
- Trimmed off the top/side metal from the rear trunk of the MR2 (in the pic the Heat Shield has dirt on it not rust :))
- Cut the Muffler & tips off the MR2
- Fitted Tail Lights / Marker Lights / Some Grills onto the Body Kit
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POST STRETCH SYSTEMS RECONNECTION KIT
I ordered these parts to extend the lines of the Fuel, Hydrolics (Brake & Clutch), AC, and Gear Shifting lines.
Water/Coolant & Heater lines are also in this catagory. And 1 Vaccume tube. And that should conclude the full kit.
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tail lights fit well, you sure are moving right along ::thumbup
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Fuel Tank Mod
Thought I'd share this simple procedure because "beating the tank in" didn't sound like what should be done.
I needed to place the fuel tank back where it belongs in the tunnel under the center console of the car. I however needed to widen the tunnel at the stretch area, or collapse the tank in the same area a few inches, or a combination of both.
I did a combination of both. First we cut relief slots in the center console tunnel in the stretched metal, then we cranked the tunnel wider with a regular thread/scissors jack, in more than one spot to make it at least an inch wider on each side (We could have done this to make it even wider and that should have done the job to fit the tank). However, using my car, and a hydrolics jacks and some wood we shrunk the width of the gas tank at the area of interest two more inches by lifting the car then letting the car skowly crush the tank.
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I want to shed some light on a week-long process that occupied the whole third week of the build. I think doing this well is essential to having a successful build. I believe, if one orderes all these parts ahead of time (maybe while in the stretch stage) they can definately put it all back together in one weekend. To simplify it as much as I can, here are most of the elements that need to be reconnected after the stretch:
- All electrical systrems
- Heater lines (Requires a cut and extra pipes)
- Fuel Tank & lines (Requires space improvement and extra hoses) SPECIAL STORE
- Vaccume (Requires extra hoses)
- Brake lines (Require extra Hydraulic line) OFF THE SHELF 24" FROM AUTO ZONE
- Clutch line (Require extra Hydraulic line) OFF THE SHELF 24" FROM AUTO ZONE
- Coolant lines (Require extra pipes)
- AC lines (Require welding extended lines) RADIATOR SHOP EXTENDED THEM
- Throttle line reconnect
- e-Brake line (Require extending a part) SPECIAL ORDERED - METRIC
- Gear Rods (Require extending) SPECIAL ORDER - METRIC
Then..
Removal of Hood, Trunk, and Fuel door cables
Reinstall Rear Speakers
Reinstall Seat Belts (No sensors yet)
Some of the items I used are from special stores and special fab-welds etc. Some parts I special ordered, and some areas I had to measure to find proper place for like in the case of the Fuel door area matching with the filler openning.
Here are some pictures for New location for fuel filler, and my personal choice of making both gear rods all thread for now. I used a die kit after actually removing the cable, then cutting the front rod, then making a thread out of it as I want to be able to adjust for exact length (something I can't do if I just weld it)
UPDATE
I took the opinions of those helping me and they decided a different posission for the Fuel filler as the fuel door looks better on the side of the car! It cuts the top corner of the Firewall - I didnt wanna do that but sure why not.
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Very nice explanation.
I didn't need to extend any electrical on my stretch except the fuel pump. Did you or are you just referring to reconnecting? The rest was more than long enough once I cut one tie strap holding the giant wire clump just behind the passenger compartment. Also, I didn't need to extend my fuel lines, but we put the tank in a little different. Again, great explaining.
Is there a reason that you put in metal tubing for the AC instead of just silicon tubing like the rest of the lines?
I'm still trying to decide how to route the fuel filler to the sail panel. It goes through the passenger compartment to do it, so I'm anxious to see what you do with yours. Maybe hide it under a batwing?
edit: found an answer to a question in your thread.
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Yep all electrical is the same :) I put the tank as far forward as possible - I was goin to put it all the way back last week but I talked with MitchMD and he advised me on placing it this way.
As I measured for the fuel filler I noticed the way it sticks out now still clears the batwing area just enough for a fuel door setup (without having to take it through the passanger cabin). I bought a Gasoline-Grade pipe for the filler neck so I can move its opening to where I need it to be.
The AC tubing is metal under the car (Aluminum) so I kept it the same as before just welded more aluminum to it.
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So the aluminum stretch was just preference? I wanted to make sure I didn't do something that would create problems. Especially now while the car is just in the infant stages.
I also have some (I think it's 3") flex gas line, so I'm absolutely going to see if I can run the same route and have success. Glad I stopped by to ask. Thanks for the tip. ::beers
Thanks for the explanation, and keep up the great work documenting.
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I was told at the radiator shop that this is the best method and if I cut aluminum I should weld it and test it at high psi. No tubes or flared fittings etc. It only cost me $100 for both. I marked where they should be cut lemme know if you need the exact spot
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Lance the AC lines are pressurized hoses so just clamping silicone to them wont work
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Decided to tackel other things while awaiting on an order for the last part to connect to run the car again :) so today I worked on the windshield.
WINDSHIELD
So I decided this because I needed to verify what body work I have to do on the Frame.
I looked at Chris's Tucked-In windshield. Then I compared an Altima Windsheild that is similar to the Maxima's but has no lower corners (: better fit but 3" Taller on top. Then made a template from the kit, then decided a less stres line cut, and got the windshield cut in the same day to get it once and for all out of the way ::sun
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Looks good. Just curious why you decided to cut the glass instead of doing the tuck.
Mike
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A perfect professional cut shouldn't cause the glass to break or become more prone to break. It gives the perfect look without cutting the kit and this way I make sure the corners are glued properly and won't rub against anything under the fender-top. I have a curved 1x1 steel windshield frame that should prvent it from shaking or flexing. It costs $250 for an installed cut windshield (: which is a great price and no waste of broken ones in the process - this guy is good
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FANTASTIC Job!!!! Wish he lived closer
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Could you post his info in case anyone else needs it?
I am not planning a G28 build but you never know what the future may bring. :)
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Great job! How did they make the cuts?
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It's a local hot rod glass shop here in Sacramento, he cut it by hand. I picked up a windshield from a local shop and took it to them then picked it up the same day. Total $100 for a cut & he won't break any :) I'm now looking for a 1-blade wiper mechanism like the one on my Elise to use on it
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E-BRAKE MOD
::scratch Thougth about this one for a while... didn't want to cut the e-brake cable so the decision was to extend the rod. Cut the rod, use a die kit to thread the two newly created ends, use links & a 12" long all thread rod. This is the resulting longer e-brake braket that lies under the car
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Very nice solution. Looks professionally done :)
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MR2 Preliminary Work Done ::headbang
So finally on Saturday, about a month into the build, we connected the last of the systems on the MR2, and it is once again ready for the road. My brother and I tried to do everything with the outmost perfection – and thought of the safest and most senseable ideas for every system we had to modify to put the lengthened-car back together. What should have taken me a weekend to complete ended up taking three weekends because of several modifications and ordering and waiting several times for special parts not available at the local stores of home depot or auto zone. Also, it was hot outside where I had to work on the car in my driveway. Here are some pics
For the next few weekends I will be working on the body kit
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Thats prob the nicest, cleanest stretch I have seen done... ::beers
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::beers butler Glad you like the work so far.
As when I started an MR2 stretch I only had CKI videos & Mitch's build and extra advice. CKI suggests several connection methods which I believe are non-practical and not safe.
The all-thread size they suggest on the gear rod is incorrect and won't fit, the aluminum AC tubes below the car can easily be cut & welded for about $100 and you keep your AC safely and properly functional, the fuel filler can reach a suitable spot on the body without running through the fire-wall and into the passenger cabin, the longer emergency brake line should be achieved by extending the rod and not by cutting & clamping the cable, no electrical wires should be cut at all (actually they ALL clear the way for a stretch leaving the cabin totally empty), the hydraulic lines are extended with proper off-the-shelf parts from auto zone (credit to MDMurcy-2), The stretched portion has metal that certainly needs to be slotted to allow expansion so the tank can fit with minimal effort, and the new longer fuel lines need to be gasoline-grade and nylon-gasoline grade appropriately, and once you remove the tank you might as well get a new fuel pump if you have a high mileage vehicle.
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BODY KIT WORK
The kit has many parts - I will place them into two catagories, 1. the main kit, and 2. The parts placed on the kit (doors, trunk, batwings, hoods, and any other fiberglass panals).
Trimming & Corrections is what I am doing first: Here are some pics
The Engine lid is the worst thing lol its cut with no symetry but I will measure it, trim it, and sand its edges and post a pic of it later. Also started some bondo work :) I will try to get the body to be ready for primer as soon as I can
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Got two hours in today: Engine Lid Symetrically-Measured, then Trimmed. It requires a bit of bondo work on the edges, but it now fits all 5 grills nicely.
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Excellent work! Looks OEM
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Its first moments as an inferno!
I had to use the Brake Vaccume-Pump to bleed the clutch (It's a must), and then the Fuel Tank was assigned its own bracketed first, and the rest of pipes have their own bracket afterwards.
It's finally back on the road - here is the first time it left the driveway in 5 weeks. It no longer is an MR2, my brother - A super-Mechanic - took it on its first drive as an Inferno
How To Parallel Park .. Naaaa. Just Test Driving The Project Car My Brother is Building :) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Letl2dd9QQ8#ws)
::rocker
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I'll bet your neighbors love you. :)
Congratz!
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Congratulations! Thank goodness that cordless drill didn't go flying ;D
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haha id being doing the same poopie haha its like driving a go kart
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Week 6...
Stretching the donor car requires adding fluids to several systems, so I went for a full flushing and replacing of all fluids:
Flushed Fuel Tank, Flushed Brake & Clutch, Drained oil, Drained Coolant, Drained AC.
I also wanted to make sure this car performs at its best, so before the stretch I got:
New Spark Plugs
New Thermostat & Housing
New Valve Cover Gasket
New Manifold Gasket
New Oil Pan Gasket
Then during the stretch period I got
New Fuel Pump
New Oil Filter
And yesterday I got
New Timing Belt & Seals
New Water Pump & Seal
New Oil Pump Gasket
The Cost of all the items listed above including the Fluids was $500
Additions and improvements will include Cold Air Intake (Already got it)
Headers - not yet
Cat-Back - not yet
The Kit Work
Also worked on repairing the Body Kit, I have already done most of the trimming on the kit and all edges are proper now. That is the first thing one must do to the kit (imo).
I now have to fiber glass some places that are a bit off, smooth the Head-Rest hump area (It was an add on), and fill & sand some places that have dried up due to the sun beating down on the kit for the past 6 weeks.
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INTERIOR 101
I measured for the added carpet & insulation sponge, and after washing and drying the original carpet (Which made it look Brand New) I placed the original interior back into the car. The two cables that I didn’t attach are the Rear Trunk & Fuel Door cables. I can attach them later once I have a use for them. I will also need to stretch the Center Console 10 inches later.
I will be changing the interior after I do more work on the kit; I just needed closure on the donor itself for now. Included a pic of Future Interior (all parts are MR2 Specs).
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Your stock seats and console look to be in good shape
Have you considered just putting the murci style headrest on the mr2 seat ?
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I really appreciate all the details you are sharing am33r. It is very educational. You are tempting me to use an MR2 for a donor. I really like how your stretch came out with the extra space behind the seats. Looks like a perfect place for a massive subwoofer! :)
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Your stock seats and console look to be in good shape
Have you considered just putting the murci style headrest on the mr2 seat ?
The seats are torn up but I can get them upholstered for $100 each and they will look great - however they are heavy like 50 lbs ::counfused Murci head-rests would be great on them too.
Center console is perfect - just has to be 10" longer in the rear area not visible in the earlier pics.
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I really appreciate all the details you are sharing am33r. It is very educational. You are tempting me to use an MR2 for a donor. I really like how your stretch came out with the extra space behind the seats. Looks like a perfect place for a massive subwoofer! :)
Hahah Subwoffer sounds great, I am not sure I want loud music in my car but I did get 4 new speakers that are the same size as the ones behind the seats in the MR2 and they are ready for a new System. Maybe two more speakers in the doors and two in the dashboard and I am good.
I have the details of all parts used for this build (it's like legos so far as long as you get the right items things workout easily). I am making a Car-Service Maual booklet that amends the MR2 Service Maual with all reciepts and parts for the resulting vehicle. I was also thinking no one has to go through the research I want through ::duh - but now I have a couple of friends here in town who can prep and stretch and re-prep a donor work in 1 week time ::beers
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You are seriously tempting me buddy. Keep the frequent updates coming. I love it!
P.S. I'm not kidding one bit about the subwoofer. I am totally doing that. ::toothy
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I love reading your build as always. Keep up the good work, and the great documenting.
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OK am33r, come clean on your change of plans - I am very interested. :)
I see you don't need your roadster lexan anymore. What are your plans if you don't mind sharing?
Mike
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::wave i'm clean
I will use whatever toyota/honda/nissan size window and change my door to accomodate even if I have to change how the whole door operates or what the window space looks like. I mean I chopped a perfectly fine MR2 for god's sake lol can't I reconfigure a door ;D
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On the 42'nd day of the build
::rocker
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Looks good. What are you planning to do about the MR2 frame in the middle of your front trunk?
I will be interested to see what you do with your windows.
Is that a Lotus sitting in front of your house?
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Looks good. What are you planning to do about the MR2 frame in the middle of your front trunk?
I will be interested to see what you do with your windows.
Is that a Lotus sitting in front of your house?
Thanks man! I'm proud of my team - they kicked some kit-a$$ in the past 6 weeks.
I have 3 Function-Related ideas for the MR2 Frame in the middle of the front trunk. Relocate the Fuse Box because now it's under the top of the fender, House a new spot for a single windshield wiper, and assign two Performance Fastners for my hood aside from having the hinges on the other side. I dunno how much space will be left but I will carpet it nicely - I might just install that subwoffer there ::headbang wait, I also need space for my two HID conversion kits cause am33r's car has no regular lights! only LED's and HID's (Besides the Two OEM murcy light, which I will look for a way to make them LED)
I still haven't gotten to the windows issue - I might use Mark's if no one needs them to deter theft from their passenger cabin. I will find me a window later and reshape the door opening to make it look nice. If anything looks legit I will share it here. I will need to do that step right because right after I mount the body properly I will make a soft top for it and it has to work right with the windows. I am not building an OEM so I can do whatever that works... Speaking of that I don't think just because it is not OEM it will have a less resale value if I decide to let it go.
I had that lotus for over six years now - this build will be my second car and it will finally give my lotus a little deserved rest every now and then
::beers
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Adjustments during the Soft-Mount Period
Placing the kit on the donor was an encouraging milestone so I took a whole week off from this project. I need to finish a few things on the donor that I had to wait to know the level of adjustment which needs to be done.
First I had to change the Speakers in the space behind the seats (there are 4 speakers, two are at the corner of the floor/firewall and two are headrest height on the side panels. After I placed my kit on the donor I noticed it is wise to keep the oem inside panels of the MR2 behind the seats without covering them - the speakers reside there so I got new ones - along with the other two speakers. Pictured are the speakers that fit the OEM used speakers.
I knew already I needed to lower the car because the kit will sit too high above the wheels I just didn't know how high (credit to MitchMurcy he mentioned 2-3" in spring hight change though he had different wheel sizes). Of course I had to wait till I soft mount the kit on the donor to know the exact height that I like. I want to mention that if I were to contionue to trim the body a bit further then it might rest another inch lower in the front and another inch in the back resulting in the possible need to only lower the suspension just 1.5" in the front and 1" in the rear to get the car to look nice when another 500lbs are added to its weight via doors and other parts and two passengers. In essence Coil Overs ARE NOT A NECCESSITY and spring/shock change would do just fine to lower the entire car 2" is all that is needed - however, I went for coilovers for ride comfort and because I one day want to lower it all the way down
Then today, the Dual-Speed, Single-Blade Windshield Wiper Mechanism arrived - it will replace the oeriginal dual wiper mechanism on the MR2. That whole mechanism will not be accessible once the kit mounts on which is why it needs to be removed at this stage allowing for proper size mechanism to be placed at the proper place in the front trunk area now that I know exactly where it should mount. Basically, the same with the suspension strut tops above, one must do the trial fitting of the kit to know what exactly need to be done and do it before the kit is fully mounted.
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For some reason the picture of the car doesn't seem to work for me???? Never mind, it works now.
Where did you get the wiper mechanism? ::thumbup
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From a ups truck
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From a ups truck
Lol ingenious, and what wiper arm will you attach to it?
I always wondered why windshield wipers needed a wiper transmission mechanism just to produce the oscillating action to the stub that connects to the wiper arm.
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From a ups truck
Lol ingenious, and what wiper arm will you attach to it?
::tongue I haven't gotten that far yet. However, recently I've come to the conclusion that if we can chop cars and rebuild all these crazy things that were never meant to fit on them, then we can fit anything on anything lol I should try my elise's wiper arm on it since it's single blade too or the mercedes single blade arm...
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Finally at my PC and I am posting the things I finished before I took a break from the build. Lowered the car on coilovers (I didn't have to change their hight I installed them and it was already lower - I can even lower them 2" more but not needed). Removed the old windhsield wiper mechanism and the new one installs to the kit itself or a bar I can place where needed. What I didn't mention earlier is that I had to trim the wheel well less than an inch behind the front wheels so I did that. I also moved the front fuse box near the right front wheel more inside the front trunk so i can access it when the body kit is on again.
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Regarding lowering the car using the coil overs - it can be done with after market lowering springs & shocks (don't heat the springs like CKI suggests - and avoid cutting them too if you can so you don't shift the stress all onto the shocks). The coil overs are $700 - $2000 in range but they all lower the car just as good - the price difference is for independent Damper & Camber adjustments and for Brand Name & Extreme Capabilitis. I bought the ones with all options at around $1000.
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Congratulation on your build, it,s moving fast , the plan of not being 100% accurate is smart because you can continue to move without waiting on OEM over priced parts ....looking good ,very wise choice of parts selected. Keep it going....... like we say ,if you get the chassis drive able with the rims and tires installed , you will more than likely make it to the finish line. Even if you don,t have the body yet ,it,s enough information on here to have your chassis drive able and ready !!
8)
IKR
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Thanks ikr ::beers I didn't know much when i started - but at this point my mechanic and I can put the car back on the road with a kit soft-mounted on it in half the time (3 weeks).
So here is the MR2 lowered. And the pic showing the top of the Strut with the damper/camber control and the old Windhsield wiper mechanism gone. I didn't take a pic of the moved fuel box.
... I should be back to working on it this weekend:
Building a Frame, installing the windshield frame & door frames, and hinge everything.
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Nice, always like to see progress :)
I moved my fuse box just to the other side of where it is and fabricated a new bar to hold it in. Where are you moving yours?
Was there a reason you didn't want to use the original windshield wiper motor? Just preference?
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Hey lance - hope all is well.
I first had to remove the Wiper motor because it will be hidden under the kit's dashboard and no longer accessible. So I removed that and the oscilating bars that connect to both wipers on the MR2.
I knew before that this setup is just too much work and that this motor was made to move the bars not the wipers so I decided on a motor tha twas meant to work stand-alone on a wiper connected to it and shoukd bolt to the Kit itself easily without having to add suppot if i dont feel to be neccessary. To my understanding, any rear hatch window wiper system should work fine as lons as it swings wide enough, but I found out that the ups trucks windshield's motors work independently So I chose that one (:
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It was 100 degrees outside so I needed to install a new AC condesor in the elise - took much of my time lol but much needed its too hot and I need an ice cold ac and it was leaking
Then got some time to work on the inferno (:
Brushed my door frames and tack welded a few points on them and painted them. They are perfect for the spring, the hinge, the latch, and the metal mesh can support a window mechanism. They also have two holes to mount to the fiberglass door structures.
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Wheel Well Mod
This is the ninth week of the build :) It is dedicated for Great Steering Capabilities
With the front-end lifted and no wheels are on, the steering wheel on the MR2 can turn 1 and 5/8 of a turn Left, and 1 and ½ turns Right. (It turns more left because in the US we make more U-Turns turning left so those car accommodate a bit more).
I am using 18x9 Fronts with 0 offset rims, and high profile thin tires on them, I also I have two sets of spacers I can use on them 1.5” and 2.0”. With the new setup I can only turn the steering wheel one whole turn and the tire will rub on the wall of the wheel well behind it.
It seems no one has dealt with this!!!
I had no warning of how far inside are the wires behind this wall, so we cut a set :( then we soldered them (: and heat fixed them properly thanks to radio shack
I had to cut the area and go back into the wall (Which is enforced with 3 layers of metal and cross bars with circular holes/slots in them). I now have 1 and ½ turn capability again on both right and left turns.
I will spray it with under-coating later
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Final Form of Kit on the Car
To have the kit sit properly I had to flatten the front trunk lip, and cut the rear engine compartment lip.
The picture of the car after the coil overs. I wiggled the kit around and measured around the tires and this is where I want it to sit. The rockers aren't symetrical on those cars so I looked at the windshiled frame and space around the seats etc... Then I measured again and moved it a cm around... It took hours but it finally sat where it needs to be.
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What offset should the wheels be? :3
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When you mentioned $100 for upholstering seats, that got me wondering :)
Where did you (any builder reading this) find someone who will do them for that? All places by me doing custom uphoslery charge insane amounts
Any thoughts on who I should go to?
Thanks!
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@ pkov There are people on craigslist who will do upholstry on a general type seat for $100 each. They usually install a generic seat cover in a nice way on the torn up seats - however, why would anyone want to do that when the seats are very inexpensive. I will be using this set of seats soon
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170974427230?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/170974427230?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649)
@ Transcend
My wheels were 0 offset for the front - and I had to resolve the rubbing issue, that's in combination with the 1.5" spacers or with the 2" spacers.
I read everywhere and nothing came up! My only conclusion is that people who have used the MR2 for this never got it to have full steering capability - that's besides the fact that they used rediculous 3" or larger spacers which are unsafe.
Let me see what Lance is going to do I think this is what he will also address this week
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I mean, What size rims . 18 x 9.5 ?
:]
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Hey am33r,
I am using 1.5" spacers in the front (though I also have 2" from the OEM wheels I had). I flattened out the lip behind the tire, and then had to beat it back a little bit, but got full range steering. I think if I hit a bump it might rub, but I can hit it back a bit still if I need. I didn't want to cut it out personally. I think your fix is great and looks well done, I just prefer not to cut out metal if I don't have to. I'm also used to only having 90% wheel turn because my truck has huge mud tires on it and rubs if I go 100%, so for me it's not a prob being already used to it. My rims are 19"x9.5 with 235 35 tires. Pretty low profile.
I got very very similar seats that are black on black for $135 with shipping off ebay. I had to make the bracket for them myself to get them in the car, but it took just an hour to do.
Keep up the great work am33r. I'm really glad you were doing this at the same time as you've given me great ideas for the windshield motor, and I moved the fuse box.
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I have the all black fabric with white stitching version of those ebay seats in my Diablo. I had to mount the seats directly to the floor to get them low enough to fit right. But I get alot of comments on how good the seats look.
Please excuse how dirty the car is in the pic, this pic is pretty old well before I swapped in the LS4....
@ pkov There are people on craigslist who will do upholstry on a general type seat for $100 each. They usually install a generic seat cover in a nice way on the torn up seats - however, why would anyone want to do that when the seats are very inexpensive. I will be using this set of seats soon
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/170974427230?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/170974427230?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649[/url])
@ Transcend
My wheels were 0 offset for the front - and I had to resolve the rubbing issue, that's in combination with the 1.5" spacers or with the 2" spacers.
I read everywhere and nothing came up! My only conclusion is that people who have used the MR2 for this never got it to have full steering capability - that's besides the fact that they used rediculous 3" or larger spacers which are unsafe.
Let me see what Lance is going to do I think this is what he will also address this week
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Great choice tony! Was the issue head-room clearance or more of a windshield view field? I was gonna buy black seats but I'm goin for a two tone Red/Black interior hoping to complement the orange / black exterior
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Great choice tony! Was the issue head-room clearance or more of a windshield view field? I was gonna buy black seats but I'm goin for a two tone Red/Black interior hoping to complement the orange / black exterior
Honestly I kinda wish it was another 1"-2" lower. With my seats mounted to the floor, (with some of the metal Fiero flooring reworked) the top of the seat just barely touches the underside of the top of the roof upholstrey when the seat is inclined forward. If that makes any sense..... But this is a Diablo roadster, not sure if there is any differences in other kits in roof height....
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Unrelated but you should get these rims :drool John Kim's Lamborghini Gallardo on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50907057)
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Hahah xool color rim but rediculous spokes! Those rims are the first step in making a honda replica out of a gallardo
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Ahahah, I wouldn't mind it at all.
Are you going to be ready for paint soon? :D
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I get an error when trying to play the video for some reason.
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Are you going to be ready for paint soon? :D
I want to be done building it in 5 weeks on the day 100 of the build - is that what you're asking ::wave otherwise NO I will need about a month of sanding after that to get it to the Primer booth (:
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Hahah xool color rim but rediculous spokes! Those rims are the first step in making a honda replica out of a gallardo
Those spokes are actually same as the stock LP540 Gallardo rims
(http://www.fquick.com/images/articles/13921.jpg)
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Too hot to work on the car so I will write about what we have done this past weekend.
Framing and Mounting the G28 Roadster Kit to a Stretched MR2-MKii
I mentioned this concept is post #21 of this diary a month ago, I now see what I am doing but the idea remains exactly the same.
I bumped into a happy surprise when I realized that the best frontal frame structure is the original MR2 Bumper Crash Structure. It is THE PERFECT DIMENTIONS & HEIGHT and it is a bolt-on. After the kit is laid on the MR2 the metal bumper struucture can be put on from under the new kit fiberglass bumper.
It needs to be cut in the top two corners to allow the headlights to fit nicely, and the vertical lip needs to be shaved so the kit sits solid.
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Framing and Mounting the G28 Roadster Kit to a Stretched MR2-MKii. Cont.
So besides the the front bumper which is a native solution to the MR2, what exactly needs to be supported?
The first thing to mount should be the two rockers. They should be separately supported then a cross bar should create support behind the headrests for the entire width of the kit. That may in turn connect those two rocker supports.
The under side of the rocker horisontal plane is heigher then the MR2 current rockers, so a 2" lift was made from 1"x1" Square Tubing the length of the full MR2 door opening (44" to 48" long) PICTURED BELOW. Then Separately, a 2"x2" Angeled Iron bar is cut at 54" to run under the rocker and the rocker gets bolted to it in two spots with the distance of the Door Sill which will be used. After that, A system of Latter 1x1 swuare tubing will connect the MR2 raised rocker to the 2x2 Angeled Iron that lifts the Kit Rocker. And that's how I think the rockers sould be mounted.
I am doing the mounting/support frame one section at a time and will show progress in separate posts, but once I'm done making the whole frame this coming weekend - I will then cover it all together in one specific post after that.
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Worked away from the car for a bit
Kit-to-MR2 Filler Panels
There are gaps between the kit and the Stripped MR2 body panels that need to be filled. The areas should be measured and a template made to accommodate these spaces.
There should be 6-8 panels to cover the spaces. First is the Kit-Windshield to MR2 Dashboard panel. Here is the template I made from cardboard – it seemed perfect when I fit it on.
I’m ordering it in two layers – sheet metal & cloth carpet, made from a rectangle with the dimensions 60”x24”. The last six inches on either side of this panel HAVE TO BE FLEXIBLE on both right and left end.
The bottom curve is the native MR2 dashboard and the top curve is the Kit's bottom windshield trim curve.
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Kit-to-MR2 Filler Panels. Cont.
Some metal on the side of the dash remains exposed after the G28 kit sits on the MR2, so for both sides it makes sense to make a continious panel that attaches to the kit to follow the contour of the side of the dashboard.
The panel can be made from a 24"x12" fiberglass and fixed onto the kit door opening area where it belongs.
Two panels are needed - not exactly symetrical - but one for each side.
(Different Subject) I updated Reply Post #31 to show the final position of the Fuel Filler opening - had to go with the advice of my helpers. If you are following this build refer back to that post (:
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@Am33r do you think this is worth it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAMBORGHINI-AVENTADOR-STEERING-WHEEL-GALLARDO-AUDI-RS4-TTRS-RS6-TTS-RS5-NEW-/300921460380?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461051169c&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/LAMBORGHINI-AVENTADOR-STEERING-WHEEL-GALLARDO-AUDI-RS4-TTRS-RS6-TTS-RS5-NEW-/300921460380?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461051169c&vxp=mtr)
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i pad $800 for mine with out the airbag.
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If you are building an OEM interior then it would be worth $1000 or less. How will the airbag be functional.
I am not building an OEM interior and I don't like it lol
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Kit-to-MR2 Filler Panels
I have combind those two interior panels into what I will address as one gap; the rocker gap cover and the side body cover. The gap is seen in the first pic, then labled in the second, and the template I measured in the third one.
I did not make a real cardboard template like I did for the dashboard top and side conformity panels - I only measured the template properly.
Ordering mine in Sheet Metal + Black Carpet. Each side requires 72"x36" Recangle to cut the panel from.
There is one gap left between the Seats & Center Console on the bottom side, and the Kit Cross Panel on the top side - this I will leave empty as everything behind it is covered nicely with carpet from the MR2 interior.
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Framing and Mounting the G28 Roadster Kit to a Stretched MR2-MKii. Cont.
This weekend we fully mounted the kit but made it easily removable.
Going from the front to the rear of the car:
The Front of the kit mounted to the Front Bumper with 2 screws (I could make it 4 but whatever). Next to the door hinge mounts 2 more screws (Two more available but I didn’t mount more). 4 screws on each rocker support bar. 2 inthe rocker vents. Under the Batwings 2 horizontal forward-&-back screws each side (No need to add more). The rear-end mounted with 2 screws (This I will enforce later 'front to back' – it was easy and simply done with a sideways latter configuration that rested on the two square chassis tubes that hosted the MR2 rear bumper fittings) here’s a picture of that part. The one more part I want to enforce is a Cross Bar behind the two seats and under the two humps where they mount to it.
I drove the car and shook it and tried to break something but (: it was awesome.
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Thats awesome , did you screw on the inside mounting areas?
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Thanks Transcend - not sure what you mean but I mounted it as good as my elise is mounted lol
Today was the end of the tenth week on this build ::counfused I need a drink... I am somewhat pleased by where I am (I can now drive it around and take it in and out of the garage or to the gas station on the next block, etc.) although I lagged for a whole week, took a whole week off, and waited on parts for a whole week last month.
I got my headlight assembly ready (Awaiting the 2" chrome rings) and I chose a harness that supports all 4 lights per unit (Will figure it out this week).
I sanded the edges of both front and rear trunk hoods, and got my hinges for them (Will mount them this week)
I decided on the Wheel Well attachment design (similar to the picture shown with rods, but I will use all-thread). This will also support the plastic wheel liners and possibly mud-flaps.
I connected the door frames to the doors and connected the latches to them too (I will be hinging those too).
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Sounds good. Any chance we could get pictures of the body mounted?
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Sure Pines, here are a couple of pics I had on my phone from saturday. I will take more this weekend when I work on it again...
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Thanks. I'd love to see more. :)
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I took a few pics today
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That looks awesome! :)
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Keep it up Am33r. Great job all the way along!
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Keep it up Am33r. Great job all the way along!
Thanks lance. Stay motivated and get it done too. There won't be too many of those builds around given the amount of work needed to complete them - very proud of you my friend
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Later Gator ::salute
I want to thank everyone for their comments and help, this is a family of awesome people I am proud to share my build journey with
I think I will not post much from this point on in this entry as the actual build diary for the First Stage of the Build is coming to an end.
I think I have posted pics of all the items I have for this build throughout this diary. A few things are left to do... then to the body work & primer work - which I STARTED to have fitting or hinging of parts proper and elegant.
Also Did this week:
- Electrical work for all the lights - including the headlights.
- I hinged the Front Hood, Engine Lid, and one door.
- I tested all the fitting of my lights and grills in their place, and the few In-Cabin Filler Panels some of those fitting pics I separately included early on in this diary.
- I ordered Door Poppers, Windshield Wiper Blade, 1 Set of Window Felts.
Left to do, then I"M DONE ::toothy
When I install my new interior I will cut a set of Wheel Well Liners and use All-Thread Rods + L shaped Brackets to mount these and connect the wheel wells to the body of the donor. That comes after the body work because I don't want to ruin it. I have a lot of weather stripping to go on after, and carpet, and some other cool stuff for this build.
I will enforce the body further with Batwing Support Frame Panels and a Cabin Cross Bar.
Here are some pics of finalizing the work I have done in the past 10 weeks. My mechanic Seth was jumping then standing on my car to test its strength
Drive Before Fitting Everything (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h38w5ttZenI#)
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That's so crazy. I want that support frame too :]
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Hi !
Did you attach your rocker panels to the main shell and then build the rocker support frame or did you mount the body and then attach the rockers?
thanks!
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ameer your build is looking sweet bro keep it up man
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WHERE IS am33r
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I was actually just wondering this myself. I'd love to see updates.
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me to
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He emailed me Friday and said he would call Monday - yeah!
I just wanted to make sure all was OK. I will ask him to post info here so people know how he and his build are doing ::toothy
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Yo Peter! is ur phone working buddy! I txted u ::beers
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I sent you a note - my stupid new Droid died.
I asked you to send me your number :)
Is there a time I could call you tomorrow?
I am hoping I can get a loaner tomorrow
Thanks!
Peter
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Where did you get your rear grill set?
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any updates?