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How To - Tips => Doors => Topic started by: Jets303 on May 27, 2012, 11:55:26 AM
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I thought I would document my work on my doors on a seperate thread considering the complexity of the job. I have logged about 26 hours on the doors to get them to this point. The glass tracks are in as well as the door latch and handle. Just need to por 15 everything and get the trim finalized and seal it up. I will take tons of pictures so keep checking back in a week or so.
IMG_1743.MOV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZhUoGA-iEQ#)
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Good work there!
Can you share how you made the upper window track? I need one desperately for my ad640 build! Real lambo is $700!
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I'm actually finalizing the upper track today, I can post up some pics sometime tomorrow.
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Even the side tracks.. I have the rubber from the maxima but how do you hold them in place, do they attach to angle iron or similar method? Looked like the maximas guides were part of the door.
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Maxima? What year and what was used?
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'96 regulators
These are for our g28's you're using watson's right? I know the cars aren't the same but not sure if the curvature is different or not, we use the maxima tracks for the curvature of the door and glass
I'm surprised John doesn't have any ideas for you, he's extremely helpful even to me and I didn't buy his kit
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Maxima front or rear regulator?
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I've always heard that it's best to use the rears because they typically don't get as much use as the fronts.
Can someone else confirm this?
Chris
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They look completely different, that's why I asked.
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The front tracks are welded to the door. You can only pull and use the rear ones.
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I got my rubber from the rear and the tracks were welded :S
I knew not to use the front because of the size, only motors can be used from the front I'm pretty sure.
confused now lol
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The size/length doesnt matter, you can just cut them to whatever you need, But again the front is stamped steel welded to the frame.
The rear tracks can be unbolted. I dont know what car you were looking at but I unbolted the rear tracks. You will only get one track per rear door so It takes two cars to make 4 tracks.
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i just got a new band saw and now i can have very controlled cuts on my metal! no more hand grinder! hopefully i can get the guts of the door working and mount it all together in a month or so when I get the doors in from John. ::bounce
Doors are always the nightmare on any build!
now only if i can source hinges under the $500 range!
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did you see the measurements of the diablo hinges no bull posted?
they're really easy to make ::thumbup
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yes i did! i took note and sent the measurements to a machine shop to see how much to cut them.
its either that, or just order them from fiberproducts from poland for $100 each.
UPDATE: I just got a quote for machines hinges for $300/pair but without the embossed indents which are oem cosmetics. lets see how this turns out!
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I've always heard that it's best to use the rears because they typically don't get as much use as the fronts.
Can someone else confirm this?
Chris
2 reasons to use the rear assemblies. First (as noted), they are usually in better condition than the front, and second, the regulator track is shorter than the fronts. The front regulator track is about 1 1/2" longer than the rears.
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They are so cheap on eBay. Only 35 each. Ordered 2, let's see what happens!
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yeah i got one on ebay for $3 plus $5shipping but they usually dont come with the motors I ended up going to the junk yard and getting another two sets
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For the upper door tracks I used 1.5''x.75'' 16guage boxed steel. I sliced it down the center like so:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1762.jpg)
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I began putting relief cuts once every few inches and tack welding them to the desired arch that I needed to fit the glass:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1765.jpg)
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After cutting and fitting and cutting and fitting this is what you end up with:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1766.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1767.jpg)
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Welded in place. I did however have to add some fiberglass to fill in about 3/4'' of inch difference in the door. Im using RobsLp640 inner door shells that were pretrimmed so someone may have gotten a bit grinder heavy:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1772.jpg)
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Parts list so far:
"L" shaped rubber trim is from a 2006 Scion Tc
The window tracks are from a 1998 Nissan Maxima
The gas strut is from a 1998 Ford Windstar rear latch
The outer rubber trim piece that sits on the door shell is from a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer front window
Motor and track are from a 1998 Nissan Maxima
Mercedes Door latches
3M Body panel adhesive on all metal to fiberglass contact (If anyone has ever used this stuff its freakin amazing!)
Por15 for all exposed metal
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awesome job! ::headbang
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Thanks for documenting all of this ::thumbup, this will be a big help in the dreaded power window installs ::beers
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Great work! :D
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So I seperated the upper door from the lower one and attached it to the door frame with some 3M Body panel adhesive. I needed to establish a body line so I tapped off the roof and layed on a few layers of glass on top and under. I havent attached the windshield so I will establish that line when Im ready:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1776.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1775.jpg)
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After sanding away with a belt sander and a sanding block:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1777.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1779.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1780.jpg)
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A little bit of filler and block sanding:
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1781.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1782.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1783.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1785.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1784.jpg)
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Very nice... I've been watching this project and the workmanship is great. Thanks for the pics....dave
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Nice job man I was waiting to see the bodywork :)
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Very nice Jetts ::beers
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wow. im speechless. ::thumbup
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What do you plan to do for the molding or trim pieces that go on the door since you blended in the lines? I would have thought the lines stay there and the areas get painted black.
thanks
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What do you plan to do for the molding or trim pieces that go on the door since you blended in the lines? I would have thought the lines stay there and the areas get painted black.
thanks
I think your talking about the body lines that seperate the black with the color of the car on top of the door?
Either way I filled those lines because my door shell had to be tweaked to fit right and I am going to have to re-establish the line with my dremel tool and some light sanding. Just a matter of getting everything lined up.
I had to order some new shocks since the ones I am using work perfect now but I am still about 10lbs shy of the final weight and after attaching a 12lb weight, the shock lacked the strength needed to lift the door.
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Oh ok I thought it would be hard to put lines like that back in and getting even depth.
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Not at all. I will post up another write up in the Fiberglass section on it. I have some pretty cool tools I use. I should probably patent them ::scratch
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Finished fixing the lines down to the door handle.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1787.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1792.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1791.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1797.jpg)
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Welded up a sturdy door striker plate mount. This thing is stout. I used a small piece of chromoly behind this plate.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1793.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1794.jpg)
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Man, thats looking good bro. Great work. I bet you cant wait to get past these doors and windows. LOL.
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Hands down the biggest pain in the butt!
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Established lines. Door is almost done.
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1864.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1863.jpg)
(http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd416/Jets303/IMG_1862.jpg)
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Looks great Jets... Keep up the great work!
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Well obviously you're an artist AND a mechanic/engineer all wrapped up in one. That really looks nice. The alignment and gaps look perfect. Probably better than Lamborghini does.
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Hey thanks guys I apperciate the kind words. The trick with these lines is to establish them with some filler and back them with a few layers of fiberglass. You cant trust the filler no matter how well prepped the surface was. The last thing you need is to close the door and a piece of the perfect line falls off with it! Also staying consistant with my sanding tools has proven to work good for me.
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Great looking build Jets!!!!!
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Fantastic ::thumbup
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Anything new on this? I am fitting a pair of Marks plexiglass windows to my G28 roadster until such time as a glass option becomes available. I would like to have them come down as far as possible so I need to know what tracks and regulators will work best. I saw rodriguezs track from Lowes and how he formed it. When I inquired about the price of tracks from pull and save they wanted the same price for the tracks and regulators as for the whole door.
I thought I would document my work on my doors on a seperate thread considering the complexity of the job. I have logged about 26 hours on the doors to get them to this point. The glass tracks are in as well as the door latch and handle. Just need to por 15 everything and get the trim finalized and seal it up. I will take tons of pictures so keep checking back in a week or so.
IMG_1743.MOV ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZhUoGA-iEQ#[/url])
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Thank you very much for this build info!!
I have a simple, rather dopey, question
On the small windows behind the doors, you can see mine is a flat, wide trapezoidal hole.
Yours has depth and framing space. Is this an insert, or is it from the interior we can purchase for a G28 ?
Thank you!
Peter
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I think you are referring to the sail windows. It looks like yours have been cut out (removed). This is a bummer as you will have to fabricate some new ones in there if you want it to look right.
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OK - That is what I assumed :(
Any chance you (or anyone here) would be willing to help provide detailed dimensions for depth and the terracing of it?
I know that is asking a lot, but it would be greatly appreciated
You can send to pjkovach@comcast.net
I will see what we can fab for it!
THANK YOU!
Peter
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Unfortunately, I don't have that part yet so I have no way to provide those dimensions. I'm sure there is someone who can help with that though.
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Thank you very much for this build info!!
I have a simple, rather dopey, question
On the small windows behind the doors, you can see mine is a flat, wide trapezoidal hole.
Yours has depth and framing space. Is this an insert, or is it from the interior we can purchase for a G28 ?
Thank you!
Peter
This was one of the features that were changed when Joe (IE) came up with his kit. He said it was done in the name of building a "budget" kit, yet no one can figure out how making this change (and by "change" I mean "not including the piece") made it an easier build.
Anyone who truly knows molding techniques can tell that whoever the builder was (Joe), he obviously didn't know how to mold negative reliefs, therefore just left that piece out.
You might wanna contact RobsLP640, I remember a while back he said that he has those pieces.
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Thank you!
I tried emailing Rob on another issue but did not hear anything back :(
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yup
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"yup" ? .... :)
I assume I know what that means.
Who can I get the door inner outers and inserts from for the G28? Also, is there anywhere I can get the inserts for the sail window inserts for apparently 'joe's' kit if that is the version I have?
Also, I need to add the dash front mounting piece and the side curved rods for the body support to attach to
Is there anywhere that shows general dimensions so I can get this made?
Thank you!!!
pjkovach@comcast.net
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I've never seen general dimensions posted anywhere. I think you're getting ahead of yourself worrying about the dash though, you are a long long way from being ready to even think about where the dash sits. The dash cannot be placed until the doors are mounted and working.
If you need inner and outer door pieces, you're going to need to contact Jackie at CKI. I don't think he will have the side window (sail) piece that you need though.
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Bummer on the general dimensions not being somewhere
Definitely true on the dash ;0
I don't understand why somebody doesn't post drawings and dimensions?!
I will once I have all of the info. It is silly not to help others by getting that up on this site.
Thanks regarding talking with Jackie at CKI - I will find the contact info and send a note.
Does CKI have the G28 parts that will fit mine?
Any thoughts on where I could get the sail window pieces?
I also need mirrors. Do you know who would have those?
Thanks again for your help!
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There is a general criterion on the framing - the rockers measure the same on all our G28 kits, for those use 2x2 angled iron and I measured 54" for each. To connect those to the donor frame use a latter configuration with several 1x1 square tubing around 4" each and weld them at the needed height to accommodate the height of the rocker.
Setting like that (: then make a box of metal fitting the shape of the space under the batwings and that's another mounting place.
Caging the top / deck lid / etc. that requires measuring your own preference of where those go according to your taste - Extreme from UK had a precise cage diagram.
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Yes CKI should be able to provide you with all the parts that fit the G28 kit. You have an IE body though, which is a poor splash of a G28 body. You will need to correct a lot of things on it to get everything to fit right.
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Can you please tell me where to get the diagram from Extreme with the precise drawings and measurements you mentioned?
I want to make sure we build and mount these sub frame pieces properly
thank you!
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Hi Murcie -me
Can you provide details/pictures on what needs to be 'corrected'?
I would like to address this asap before I hardmount it.
The more info and detailed pics i can get the better :)
Thank you!
Peter
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Can you please tell me what the contact info is for 'Extreme from the UK' you mentioned.
Folks mentioned he had 'precise' framework info for the Fiero and I really need that
Thank you!
Peter
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Her you go bud ::thumbup
http://www.extreme-sportscars.com/ (http://www.extreme-sportscars.com/)
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Is that info on the CD he has for sale there?
THANKS AGAIN!
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The DVD Extreme sells details an MR2 build. This is the route Extreme took with their replica. There is no Fiero information on the DVD. Actually, I am not aware that they have specific Fiero information at all but I could be wrong.
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Thank you - they are definately MR2 based on everything :(
Do you know of anything that gives detailed information on a fiero build support frame - i have the main frame / body done
My build diary is under pkovgolf's diary and shows my frame to help explain the current state.
Thanks again for your help!
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The Fiero is the most popular donor so you should be able to find some good help with it. I think you basically just lay your body on your Fiero and start looking for places to connect the mounting points on the body to the Fiero frame. I think everyone does it a little different so you may get different answers depending on who responds. Just make sure the mounting is secure and holds the body in the correct position and you should be OK. It may take a little trial and error to get it right.
We should keep this thread on topic. Sorry all.