LamboClone - The Premier Site for Lamborghini Replica Builders
How To - Tips => Other / Everything Else => Topic started by: SchulzeA on February 07, 2013, 09:11:25 AM
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Is 5" the correct outer dia of the fuel door assembly?
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IKR would be best suited to answer this question since he has made many kit bodies. Are you looking to just create the Gas door of the Reventon? If so, what for might I ask?
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IKR would be best suited to answer this question since he has made many kit bodies.
How many?
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Not sure on the exact amount. but I've seen his build posting of the Super bass and a couple others. Figured he would know certain details of misc. things like this.
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IKR would be best suited to answer this question since he has made many kit bodies. Are you looking to just create the Gas door of the Reventon? If so, what for might I ask?
huh?
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I still haven't met anyone that bought any kit, only heard of a couple people buying his door panels.
I see a lot of stuff that he is reportedly making, but I never see a single finished piece. Never.
I am eager to see his latest endeavors, hopefully finished.
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I would be very interested in this fuel door once it's done. I hope you find the info you're looking for, and are willing to help out other builders ;)
I found a CAD on another site, but as I have no CAD or machining experience of any kind I can say nothing more than I found it. http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/build-diaries/16281-get-ready-some-killer-reventon-builds-4.html (http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/build-diaries/16281-get-ready-some-killer-reventon-builds-4.html)
Hope this helps. If not (or if linking to another site isn't allowed), sorry.
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I would be very interested in this fuel door once it's done. I hope you find the info you're looking for, and are willing to help out other builders ;)
I found a CAD on another site, but as I have no CAD or machining experience of any kind I can say nothing more than I found it. [url]http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/build-diaries/16281-get-ready-some-killer-reventon-builds-4.html[/url] ([url]http://www.madmechanics.com/forum/build-diaries/16281-get-ready-some-killer-reventon-builds-4.html[/url])
Hope this helps. If not (or if linking to another site isn't allowed), sorry.
No problems at all linking to Mad Mechanics. Most of us started there and still follow the postings there. ::thumbup
Chris
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IKR would be best suited to answer this question since he has made many kit bodies. Are you looking to just create the Gas door of the Reventon? If so, what for might I ask?
huh?
Yes... I mis-spoke.... I apologize. :-X
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Here is the best I could come up with on my Iphone using known measurements and you know it's got to be spot on! ::counfused lance345 LamboStuff has it on there site for 43k if you will buy it so we can get the measurements I will buy the next massively expensive item! ::beers
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Could someone make a trip to their local Lambo Dealer and measure the diameter of this?
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43k seems reasonable. Its not even worth bothering with for that price. Will they take a check? ::tongue
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The same machinist that is making the aluminum head light rings has the drawings for a Reventon gas cap and has talked about making it.
As with anything else.. money talks and buys time on the mill. ::toothy
How much would something like this be worth to you guys if it was done in aluminum?
Chris
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I have no idea what number would do justice a piece that awesome!. An all aluminum milled Gas section would be a sweet addition that would add to the perfection of a build.
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I have the drawings. Just wanna verify it's scaled correct. A good friend of mine is printing them up as well as the ones I'm making from CF. aluminum will be nice tho.
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CF rocks it would be morally wrong to cover it with paint but I guess Lamborghini does it everyday.
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43k, pffff no prob. I'll just sell my project and drive around a fuel door all day.
"Is that a lambo fuel door?"
"Why yes it is. Sexy isn't it?"
"Oh my. Can you let me take it for a ride?"
"I would, but it's a single seater. Couldn't afford the other seat, sorry."
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43k, pffff no prob. I'll just sell my project and drive around a fuel door all day.
"Is that a lambo fuel door?"
"Why yes it is. Sexy isn't it?"
"Oh my. Can you let me take it for a ride?"
"I would, but it's a single seater. Couldn't afford the other seat, sorry."
::thumbup
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Well I tried. ::toothy
I bet we will see one soon that we can add to our builds! ::beers
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I started on the handle. The top side is done besides engraving Lamborghini text. I'll do that last after I block sand out any remaining tooling marks.
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Looking good! ::headbang
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Sweet!
Let me know how much you need for one once you get one freed up for sale. Glad to see someone taking this project on. ::thumbup
Chris
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I would also love to know a price.
I hate to be that guy that asks for more, but any chance someone will be making the bucket the handle fits in?
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Some should be available in time. There's a lot more work involved than it may seem. They will be molded from cf or fiberglass and the handles will always be aluminum.
I am making the bucket as well
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Made a little progress this weekend. The back side is cut. Next is cutting the script and figuring out the spring loaded hinge. Any ideas for the electric latch? I planned on using one from a grand am because they are plentiful at the Pick N Pull
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Looking good!!!
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Nice work Alan ::salute
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top notch work alan ::headbang
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A short how to for block sanding. It's very important to prepare parts to the best of your ability before paint. I'm sure most know by now that things may look great prior to paint, but then find it looks really poor after a layer of paint is applied. Here is one way I prep machined parts to smooth ridges left behind by the cutting process.
I start by blending any high ridges or deep tool marks with a right angle grinder. DON'T be to aggressive! Deep gouges or waves end up causing more work.
Apply a layer of Dykem over the surface to be finish sanded. I prefer the shoe polish type applicator. The brush type ends up flinging on something and it never comes off.
Now take a piece of adhesive backed sand paper and apply it to a hard flat block. I normally start with 320grit and use a piece of 3/8" thick aluminum with a good finish.
Start by carefully sanding a bit and stopping to check your progress. Make sure you keep the block flat to the surface you are sanding. Don't be tempted to stray from keeping the block flat to the surface!
After a bit of sanding you can now see the low spots by where the blue Dykem remains. At some point you need to start using finer grits of paper depending on the finish you want to achieve. In this case I used 240/320/600.
Sand until all of the low spots are blended in. I usually spend more time with the 600 grit to slowly sneek up on the finished surface. Sanding is like sex, its probably a poor job if it only takes a couple minutes to finish. So take your time and do it good ;)
Now you're all done and ready to paint the part. Normally I give it a coat of spray paint just to be certain the finish is acceptable. The paint can easily be removed with a quick soak in some strong paint thinner. If its good, get out the spray gun! In this case, its the color the buyer choose. Hope its the right shade. I think its fabulous!
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Hey Princess you forgot my Barbie logo! :-*
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Oh darn. I'll put it on there for you.
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Haha :'( so very funny oh wow ::tongue
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A friend of mine ran the fuel door as a test run on his printer. The finish product will be printed in a higher resolution.
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That is cool
Didn't know he had a printer
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top notch work buddy top notch
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::headbang That is cool to see it all together.
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This was just sent to me guess he got bored last night...! ::headbang
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The color is all wrong. Needs to be pink of course
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Invention my dear friends is 93% perspiration, 6% electricity, 4% evaporation, and 2% butterscotch ripple.
Willy Wonka (NOT BARBIE) ::tongue
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Fred Sanford drinks Ripple
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This was just sent to me guess he got bored last night...! ::headbang
That part just needs an acetone vapor treatment (see youtube vid) and it will be close to OEM usable!
Still Extruding: Vapor Treating ABS 3D Printed Parts (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj53P2YzYGM#)
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This was just sent to me guess he got bored last night...! ::headbang
That part just needs an acetone vapor treatment (see youtube vid) and it will be close to OEM usable!
Still Extruding: Vapor Treating ABS 3D Printed Parts ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj53P2YzYGM#[/url])
With these 3D printers coming down in price (about $500) like this one:
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1682938109/robo-3d-printer (http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1682938109/robo-3d-printer)
you can probably print out a whole car for about $250 in plastic (about a 500 pound plastic body)! Even the filament (about $50/two pound roll) can be greatly averted by making your own for about $5/ two pound roll like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34653 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34653)
You can download the PDF plans for free at that site!
The whole car would be under $1000! I would guess it would take 1 to 3 months to get it done (using these small machines (10 inch by 10 inch by 8 inch) or making bigger travel arms and heat plates using the supplied nozzle/controllers - to speed up the process) - mostly just supervising the machine as it does all the work! Afterwards, just brush/spray/vapor treat the car with acetone and you would have a smooth shiny car body that you could pull molds from or even use as is - coating it with paints/vinyl wrap/chrome wrap (to reflect high heats)/ or even a coat of resin or gel coat! All for under $1000 - ANY CAR, ANY MOLD! That beats the cost of any fiberglass body!
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Hi Alan,
I'm glad that you did quite impressive piece of art using your CNC-machine. ::thumbup However, I just checked the 3D model of the fuel cap I sent you before and I figured out it's the wrong scale. Sorry for that and hopefully it didn't cost you much time and money so far (and also to anyone who used my file with wrong scale)! ::counfused I made this 3D model after a request of IKR where he asked me to make it 5" diameter, or 127 mm. Using a high-res photo of Aventador as reference, it seems that the correct size of this fuel cap is approximately 160 mm diameter (6.3"). I sent you the updated 3D model to your e-mail. ::beers
Regards,
Bobi
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Oh shoot! I thought it seemed a bit small. Glad you discoverd IKR had the wrong Dia before I made the bucket portion.
Thanks Bobi for being so kind to share your high quality 3d files. And welcome to the forum! ::beers
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If someone finds a good .STL file for this gas cap and filler, please send to me and I'll try to print it on my 3D printer for personal use (I won't be selling these). 8)
Thanks
Chris
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If someone finds a good .STL file for this gas cap and filler, please send to me and I'll try to print it on my 3D printer for personal use (I won't be selling these). 8)
Thanks
Chris
Consider it done. I'll send it later today.
Alan
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If someone finds a good .STL file for this gas cap and filler, please send to me and I'll try to print it on my 3D printer for personal use (I won't be selling these). 8)
Thanks
Chris
Consider it done. I'll send it later today.
Alan
Thanks Alan... giving it a try. ::huh
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsMXTE8pGAo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsMXTE8pGAo#)
Part 2
www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx4SnZxDQp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx4SnZxDQp4#)
Chris
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I just made some minor changes to the Reventon 3d model. Now the whole assembly is separated and leveled on the same zero XY (horizontal) plane for easier 3d printing. The file formas is STL. I also added five tiny pins to support the fuel door during 3d printing. After the part is ready you simply break them.
PS: The file is too large and can't be uploaded here. I split it into two WinRAR files of 2MB each but the forum don't allow me to upload RAR files.
PS2: Now it works just fine. Thanks! ::thumbup
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I just made some minor changes to the Reventon 3d model. Now the whole assembly is separated and leveled on the same zero XY (horizontal) plane for easier 3d printing. The file formas is STL. I also added five tiny pins to support the fuel door during 3d printing. After the part is ready you simply break them.
PS: The file is too large and can't be uploaded here. I split it into two WinRAR files of 2MB each but the forum don't allow me to upload RAR files.
Give it a try now. :)
I'm going to attempt to reprint these again tonight (will take about 20 hours total) and they should turn out pretty good.
Thank you!
Chris
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Here is an updated STL file with the fuel door flipped the other side, and also all three parts saved as separate 3d models.
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Here is an updated STL file with the fuel door flipped the other side, and also all three parts saved as separate 3d models.
Much appreciated!
These are printing much nicer now on my printer but due to the quality and features on my printer they as still a little rough. I think they are close enough now that they can be finished by hand however I'm going to hold out for a better printer or have them printed on a machine that can do solid parts.
Thanks again!
Chris
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The last year I have been involved in a project (whistle) using an expensive and big proffesional 3d printing machine, and the finish surface of the printed parts was still rough in the Z (vertical) direction due to the limitation of this technology. The printer added horizontal layers of 0.05 mm and the resulting shape had micro stairs like those when you are building an object with LEGO blocks. While 0.05 mm sounds like extremely small and acceptable for most applications, I can assure you that the micro stairs were still noticeable. The software had an offset feature to 3d print the parts slightly bigger than the original 3d CAD model, in order to allow additional polishing with sandpaper. :)
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Hey Chris, did you had a chance to look at the 3d file I sent you? Not heard from you since couple of days.
Cheers,
Bobi
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Hey Chris, did you had a chance to look at the 3d file I sent you? Not heard from you since couple of days.
Cheers,
Bobi
Email sent ::thumbup
Chris
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Thanks, got it! :) I was not able to load the forum for several days until now.
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Anyone make any more progress on this?
Shameless bump as I'm almost ready to mount my body and will have to figure out the fuel system very soon. :)
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I just got a couple feet of Nylatron to machine some of these. They will be used to make mold plugs. I'll post the results as they happen.
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This is some good news :) Keep us posting, please.
PS: I searched Google for "Nylatron" and judging from the photos I see, this material pretty much looks like the "Polyamide" which is largely popular in my area. Maybe they are the same material, but having different trade names? In the past I used Polyamide PA6 for fabricating some parts of my CNC-milling machine. It's an extremely durable material.
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This is some good news :) Keep us posting, please.
PS: I searched Google for "Nylatron" and judging from the photos I see, this material pretty much looks like the "Polyamide" which is largely popular in my area. Maybe they are the same material, but having different trade names? In the past I used Polyamide PA6 for fabricating some parts of my CNC-milling machine. It's an extremely durable material.
Did you use carbide cutters or hss? It's pretty ridged material for being plastic. I'm looking forward to machining it!
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I have no idea about the tools used to cut the material. It was a turner in my town who did most of the work on the PS6 parts using my drawings. But to cut the cylindrical rod into smaller pieces, the staff at the shop where I bought the material used a large mechanical saw, and each time it took about 15 minutes to cut a diameter of 160 mm. I was amazed how strong this plastic is. No wonder that it's commonly used for RC scale car parts like gears, frames and suspension. :)
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I started cutting the fuel door "bucket" last night. I separated it into two portions to make machining easier. Here is the upper section after the roughing cut. Thanks again to Bobi (Plans4sale) for being so kind to share his 3d drawing. He also has taken his time to alter the drawing to inches and Iges format just to help me.
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O
I started cutting the fuel door "bucket" last night. I separated it into two portions to make machining easier. Here is the upper section after the roughing cut. Thanks again to Bobi (Plans4sale) for being so kind to share his 3d drawing. He also has taken his time to alter the drawing to inches and Iges format just to help me.
Ohhhh baby I so want one of these if you'll be offering them for sale. My 3D printer just didn't do a good enough job and my buddy that has talked about machining them has been too busy with other work.
PM me if you are making a couple of them. :D
Chris
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Sorry if there are kids reading the forum, but this is pure CNC-porn! ::beers
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I am very interested in one if you do make a few available. I'm at the finishing stages of my Rev and would love to include this piece. Please let me know, and thank you for the updates. Looks really good.
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Thanks!
I'm going to mold it and make more. ::angel
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That is some nice work Alan, very detailed.. What material did you use to machine it from?
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Thank you sir. It will look a lot better after the finish cut. The material is Nylatron from Cope Plastic. It's some really nice stuff to work with but expensive.
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Are you guys using the reventon cap on your murcies? Wondering how that would look
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Are you guys using the reventon cap on your murcies? Wondering how that would look
Will you photoshop a picture of the fuel door on a 640?
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Are you guys using the reventon cap on your murcies? Wondering how that would look
I'm keeping mine OEM but it would be cool to see what a Murci would look like with one, like Alan says.
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Here are a couple.
Chris
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Hmm, maybe black to keep the original color scheme
I still like the murcie's tho
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Shweeet! Now make the car blue and it will be perfect!
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I was able to recut the fuel door as one piece by using a combination of different tool holders and cutter extensions. The door latch/hinge bottom corners and the floor of the part need cleaned up by hand, but over all I'm happy with the outcome. Now the rear side needs cut but it should be pretty easy.
::LAMBO
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Wow, you sir did some respectable job on this piece of art! :) Thanks for the update! Will the material allow sanding to make the part perfectly smooth?
On a side note, is not it possible to make finish cut on the lower area with the hole where the fuel pipe goes, it there is no such long milling cutter available yet? There must be a tiny water drainage hole next to the hole, as well. :)
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I couldn't get my program to do the area around the fuel neck correctly without recutting a large portion of the part again. So I just called it good. A little epoxy filler and some sanding will make it perfect to pull a mold from. The drain hole will be drilled from the back side during those machine operations.
The plastic material can be sanded, but it loads up the sanding paper pretty quick. Thankfully my work place has a ton of sandpaper haha
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I've made a bit of progress. The tab that extends from the handle portion will be machined separate and attached later. One bolt is also machine and ready to be molded after a bit more polishing. Next step will be programming the Lamborghini text and machining it into the handle.
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Very impressive!
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I will tell you a secret, guys. Actually, Alan works at Lamborghini ::angel
Below is a cross-section test I did today on the 3d model, just to show how the separate pieces correspond together and what's the clearance around the pivot point of the fuel door.
http://imageshack.us/a/img191/1778/f8z0.png (http://imageshack.us/a/img191/1778/f8z0.png)
http://imageshack.us/a/img823/7199/uoit.png (http://imageshack.us/a/img823/7199/uoit.png)
http://imageshack.us/a/img593/9314/no5u.png (http://imageshack.us/a/img593/9314/no5u.png)
By the way, that extra 3rd piece (the tab shown in red) is meant to be made from steel, while a super magnet is bonded at the back of the fuel door. However, I'm not sure if it's safe to place magnets near the fuel opening. But this is certainly the most minimalistic way to do the locking mechanism.
http://imageshack.us/a/img407/1212/0yg4.png (http://imageshack.us/a/img407/1212/0yg4.png)
An alternative way to keep the fuel door closed is to use a spring, but it will look a bit ugly when opened. A synthetic plastic wire (not metal one to prevent damage on the part) could be used where the white line is, while the actual spring is hidden behind so that there is no way to see it from outside. But I think that the magnet option is better in case that it's not dangerous for causing fire.
Another way is to make the red tab part of the fuel door, and make a hole in the tab so that a remore controleed pin exiting from the main cylindrical body (in the very same way that the yellow screw goes there) will go through the red tab to secure the fuel door.
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::tongue
Thanks for sharing the info. I thought that tab was connected to the handle!
My plan of latching the door included magnets with almost the exact same idea as yours. Except for, use a torsion spring to hold the handle in the open position once it has been released from the magnet.
It would be possible to make the handle latch and unlatch remotely from inside the car but I'm concerned that someone will pull on the handle causing something to be broken...
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Got a mold made and pulled a part. Still have to machine the script into the handle and mold it.
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If I could put an idea to you , this depends upon the hinge pin pivot position - which is difficult to make out , but a ball plunger under the handle is all that is required to initially pop the handle up when the release actuator is activated . Here I would use genuine actuator and link rod - which has a tapered end to it ( check price on these 2 parts...:)
Then the ball pressure would then act upon the handle in the raised position to keep it erect :o
http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section10/pbp/index.html (http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section10/pbp/index.html) [ example ]
Quick mod to pics to demonstrate.
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I had planned to use a tension spring on the pivot point like the inner door handles utilize. The plunger is a great idea but I'm not sure that it will have enough travel to keep the handle erect lol.
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the space between is equal when closed or open so the same tension that would be placed on the hinge to push it upwards to initially grab would be the same tension that would be holding it in place after it has been pulled upright.
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:)
Reventon actuator rod 8Z0 862 167 £6.40 , Reventon actuator 8Z0 810 773 A £9.66 , ordering reventon parts ....nice . :P Reventon fuel cap £24,474.46 :sosad
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Nice work Alan. ::headbang
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:)
Reventon actuator rod 8Z0 862 167 £6.40 , Reventon actuator 8Z0 810 773 A £9.66 , ordering reventon parts ....nice . :P Reventon fuel cap £24,474.46 :sosad
A fresh mind and I'm on board now. Earlier I missed the concept of how it was supposed to function. Thanks String, I'll give it a try. :notworthy
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Still needed debured but looks pretty good.
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That does indeed look really , really nice. ::salute Is making a handle with the 'red tab' attached a big deal ?
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That does indeed look really , really nice. ::salute Is making a handle with the 'red tab' attached a big deal ?
The "red tab" is molded to the bucket portion of the fuel door. It has three holes in it for magnets to be bonded into. A small metal plate will be embedded in the handle to hold against the magnets.
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::wave
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Awesome work Alan! :drool :notworthy
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Very impressive!
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Thanks! ::salute
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Good God that thing is Snazzy!!! :notworthy
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Looks perfect!!!!
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Wow, quite nice work, Alan! ::beers Where is the OEM marking?
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::LAMBO2 ::toothy
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I can't remeber if I posted any updates. The handle mold is done, bolt molds are done and one drill bushing for the hinge point. There is still one drill bushing to finish for the project but it's mostly done. Also made a fridge magnet for Mr.Butler. :LL:
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I have to admit that it looks perfect!
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WOW.. looking freaking great.. very nice work
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Outstanding job! ::thumbup