Author Topic: Working under a replica  (Read 1949 times)

jfalbino

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 71
  • Liked: 12
  • Member Rating Points: +1/-0
Re: Working under a replica
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2015, 11:18:23 PM »
Awesome!!

notnilc20

  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 514
  • Liked: 174
  • Member Rating Points: +16/-0
Re: Working under a replica
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2015, 09:22:29 PM »
Here's a review of Race ramps that i did a bit ago. Definantly worth the money. With the step system you can easily get under your car no problem.
http://lamboclone.com/index.php?topic=2921.0

eddie

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 878
  • Liked: 286
  • Member Rating Points: +19/-2
Re: Working under a replica
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2015, 08:44:04 PM »
well there's a easy solution how to repair under carriage if need it

FauxDiablo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 20
  • Liked: 8
  • Member Rating Points: +0/-0
Re: Working under a replica
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2015, 06:52:55 PM »
I was reading that if you lift one side too high on a kit, it will crack the windshield? If a kit doesn't have a "jack point", how does one go about adding them? Is it just a basic plate welded to the frame? I saw a set that slides underneath each side, is a 6k pound limit, and is about 3" totally lowered. I was just asking because I figured I could put one on my wish list.

If there is the tiniest of an area, that if jacked-up, will come remotely close to cracking the windshield, you do not have a car, you have death trap.

For those of you who made (or bought) a kit that does not have a steel-reinforced windshield frame, let's hope that you NEVER get into an accident.

A jack point would be any area that is deemed "safe" to jack up a car. This has most to do (in my case) with not wanting to jack the car up in an area that is not supported by internal structure, such as an actual steel frame or chassis. I only have these points so I do not accidentally dent the floor boards or front trunk floor.

jfalbino

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 71
  • Liked: 12
  • Member Rating Points: +1/-0
Re: Working under a replica
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2015, 04:57:28 PM »
I was reading that if you lift one side too high on a kit, it will crack the windshield? If a kit doesn't have a "jack point", how does one go about adding them? Is it just a basic plate welded to the frame? I saw a set that slides underneath each side, is a 6k pound limit, and is about 3" totally lowered. I was just asking because I figured I could put one on my wish list.

FauxDiablo

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 20
  • Liked: 8
  • Member Rating Points: +0/-0
Re: Working under a replica
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2015, 04:04:36 PM »
Well, my car is 5" off the ground, but it has an entirely flat bottom. I built it in such a way that you never really have to go underneath it.

I have "jacking points" if I have to take a wheel off, and for that I have a low-profile 3 ton floor jack that goes down to about 3" high, and will go in about 15".

jfalbino

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 71
  • Liked: 12
  • Member Rating Points: +1/-0
Working under a replica
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2015, 12:33:44 PM »
what do you guys use when you need to get under your replicas? Do you guys use one of those hydraulic scissor lifts? What gets low enough to fit underneath it to allow you to work on it without spending thousands on those industrial lifts like in repair shops? Just a thought that was running through my mind