Author Topic: Nickmkk's Build  (Read 10765 times)

autopro

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #50 on: October 05, 2016, 06:06:19 PM »
Progress slowed a bit due to weather among other things but I've finally got the steel framework glued in and welded together, it took 10 cartridges of 3m bonding adhesive.  I also cut a slot and fit my third brake light.  Now I need to figure out how to attach these rocker panels.





That some serious cash right there  888o
Pedro

nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #49 on: October 05, 2016, 03:32:34 PM »
Progress slowed a bit due to weather among other things but I've finally got the steel framework glued in and welded together, it took 10 cartridges of 3m bonding adhesive.  I also cut a slot and fit my third brake light.  Now I need to figure out how to attach these rocker panels.










nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #48 on: September 16, 2016, 12:53:24 PM »
Mine are only 1-3/4'' thick, I like the idea though, I'll see if I can find some rubber mounts that will fit my radiators.  They are the honda civic radiators, I'm hoping they'll handle the heat from my V8.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2016, 03:41:40 PM by nickmkk »

diablodoc

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #47 on: September 16, 2016, 12:41:36 PM »
I got the rads from Rodriguez.  I think he's used them on a previous build.  They are custom made and come from a place called Kar House.  They're 3" thick.  I'm hoping they'll handle the heat from the V12.  Not sure you can see from the pics, but I have 13" Spal puller fans mounted and shrouded on the back.

nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #46 on: September 16, 2016, 09:13:50 AM »
I used rubber mounting pads from a '67-'72 Chevy pickup.  They're beefy and cradle the radiator to keep it in place.

I like it, what radiators are you using? How thick are they?

diablodoc

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #45 on: September 16, 2016, 09:01:31 AM »
I used rubber mounting pads from a '67-'72 Chevy pickup.  They're beefy and cradle the radiator to keep it in place.

nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #44 on: September 15, 2016, 09:58:19 AM »
I would advise that you mount your radiators in rubber grommets like Honda OEM on the top and bottom rather than mounting them solid using the fan shroud mounts.    01

I had considered that but the lower radiator studs were cut off by the previous owner, I guess they got in the way when initially mounting the radiators.  Right now I have plastic washers between the radiator and chassis mounting points, probably still not the best solution.  I'll have to live with it unless I want to buy new radiators.

nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #43 on: September 15, 2016, 09:51:26 AM »
Nickmkk, it is a little late now but here is an old hot-rodder trick. You can accomplish this same thing with garden hose and fiberglass strips. It is cheaper, easier, and lighter. Works great on steel T-Buckets and Deuce Coupes as well. 

That certainly would have been cheaper, easier, and lighter.  I like the idea of using steel though, this body will be very solid.  Hopefully it won't be too heavy but I'll be putting about 400 horsepower to the wheels so it should still go pretty good.

Quick question though, will I be able to weld tabs onto the steel once it's glued in with 3M bonding adhesive or will the heat from the weld burn up the glue?

I've been talking to a guy at 3m and it sounds like any welding will cause adhesive failure in the weld zone, that will only be in a few spots though.  I'll just apply more adhesive along the edge of the steel and fiberglass afterwards, it should be fine I think.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2016, 10:03:17 AM by nickmkk »

01Lambiero

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #42 on: September 15, 2016, 09:45:48 AM »
I would advise that you mount your radiators in rubber grommets like Honda OEM on the top and bottom rather than mounting them solid using the fan shroud mounts.    01

« Last Edit: September 15, 2016, 10:00:08 AM by 01Lambiero »
20 yr. GM Niase certified Auto Mechanic (Tune-Up, Brakes, & Heavy Repair)
24 yr. GM Automated/Robotic Welding Systems
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76mx

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #41 on: September 15, 2016, 09:14:35 AM »
Nickmkk, it is a little late now but here is an old hot-rodder trick. You can accomplish this same thing with garden hose and fiberglass strips. It is cheaper, easier, and lighter. Works great on steel T-Buckets and Deuce Coupes as well. 

nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #40 on: September 14, 2016, 08:45:49 PM »
More progress today!  Now I just need to finish the front fender areas before I can pop these out, finish the welds, then glue them in for good.  I'll hold off on reinforcing the front bumper until I can fix the bumper sag issue.

Quick question though, will I be able to weld tabs onto the steel once it's glued in with 3M bonding adhesive or will the heat from the weld burn up the glue?






nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #39 on: September 13, 2016, 11:01:14 PM »
That's a good point, I don't want the car to be squeeking and rattling.  I will definitely use some urethane everywhere that the body sits directly on the chassis.

Thanks for the kind words, I'll make it as awesome as I can. ::beers

autopro

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #38 on: September 13, 2016, 09:50:15 PM »
Very good progress nick. Neils88 has it right with the way he is mounting his panels, I am doing almost the same as he is.  One big advantage of using the urethane between the framing and the fiberglass as Neils88 mentioned is that you will avoid all of those squeeks and rattles when driving.  If you don't want to use urethane I would suggest you look for an alternative to place in between the frame and the body to avoid the noise.

Keep at it you're on your way to an awesome build  ::rocker
« Last Edit: September 14, 2016, 09:48:13 AM by autopro »
Pedro

nickmkk

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #37 on: September 13, 2016, 09:17:01 PM »
Thanks for the tips, I'll cover the framing in fiberglass on the trunks and engine bonnet like you've suggested, it will give it a cleaner look.  I don't know if I'll use urethane to fasten the body to the frame though.  I plan to bolt metal tabs to the chassis which will be welded to the body framing allowing me to unbolt and remove the body when necessary.  I might decide to use urethane in some spots during the final assembly though, we'll see.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2016, 09:19:43 PM by nickmkk »

Neils88

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Re: Nickmkk's Build
« Reply #36 on: September 13, 2016, 08:49:00 PM »
I'm using three fastening methods...depending on the panel and requirements for removal or adjustment later.  First of all, bonding fasteners (studs) with a 3M bonding adhesive to attach them to the fiberglass panels.  This allows the panels to be bolted to any framework.  I also added a couple of layers of fiberglass over the bonding fastener (stud pokes through) just to give a little extra reassurance that the bonding fastener doesn't get ripped off the panel.  I'm also using a urethane adhesive between the panels and the frame...this makes it harder to remove the panel later, but stops any vibrations from causing problems or misalignments later.  The urethane is also flexible allowing for thermal expansion between parts, that could otherwise lead to warpage.  In a couple of cases, in addition to the methods above, I've also completely encased the framing in fiberglass...such as with the hood, and movable vents (batwings).  Fiberglass resin doesn't stick perfectly to metal (can delaminate), so this should be done in conjunction with one or two of the other methods.