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How To - Tips => Engine & Transmission => Topic started by: CCIE on May 20, 2018, 12:16:58 AM
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OK Gents!!!!
I am sure this has been addressed somewhere before.
I have soo many issues with my NAERC replica with a 3800 SC engine that I cant even began to cry about... so divide and concur and keep moving forward all while balling my eyes out...
My engine is heating to a point my exhaust manifold turns red hot. I was told it could be a water pump and got that replaced but same issue.
The Diablo is on a NAERC replica Chaise with a audi 5000 5 speed, 2 radiators in the back with strong fans, coolent is new, full and circulating. Any ideas where to check, thoughts, suggestions, laugh, bullying, poking with a stick, making jokes, throwing rocks, name calling or any good ideas on how to fix it is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
CCIE
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Sounds to me like you may have an air pocket somewhere in the system blocking the flow of water. Air pockets form steam which create enough pressure that your water pump can't overcome it. Make sure you vent all high spots in your system to a pressure tank situated at a point higher than all water lines. Good luck.
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Red hot exhaust manifolds are usually an indication of a timing problem.
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Neils88 would it be also that it was reprogram wrong or something that needs to be taken out. ? I have the same engine chipped and smaller pulley
no over heating at all or that . two Del sol rads and Spal 1850cfm on each side. I do not use EGR, its blocked and delete besides more other stuff on ECM
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there is definitely a fueling or timing issue causing your overheating
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What are your exhaust manifolds made of? Are they cast iron, or the same thin wall tubing like used on the stock Fiero V6 engine?
Most people don't know that the exhaust manifolds on the Fiero V6 were intentionally made from thin wall tubing so that they WOULD get red hot during high RPM's. It was intentionally designed that way to burn off most of the unburnt fuel before it got to the catalytic converter since the exhaust system is such a short distance from the manifolds to the converter.
If your exhaust manifolds are the same type of construction, theres nothing wrong, its just the nature of the beast.
Most engine exhaust manifolds glow red hot as well, they are usually wrapped so you don't see it so easily.
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First........ Thank you all for responding!!!!!
Murci-Me...My exhaust manifolds are defenetelly not from Fiero. With the entire car body made from fiberglass/composite material and a red hot exhaust I am afraid the car will catch fire. I have had many other replica through the ages and dont recall exhaust turning red like this (Including fieros) My apology I am not saying that it doesn't happen just that I did not run into it before. Also what would you recommend to resolve this, what can I replace the exhaust Manifolds with? I do respect your vast knowledge and would love to hear more and take your advise to resolve this issue
Adrian and Neil.... If its timing issue where can I start with?
Diabolic... I do not recall seeing a pressure tank in my cooling system. Can you please explain more
I am going to throw this out there!!!! I am in Columbus Ohio
If anyone needs AGP Diablo Glass. I will trade you work on my car for the glass. Send me a PM
Thanks
CCIE
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Your car is computer controlled, so you will need a proper diagnostic done on it. And based on MM suggestion, you can ceramic coat the headers and/or wrap them
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My head is still spinning from "how did the water get into your fuel tank" but here goes. What are you doing to get the manifolds/headers to glow? What temps is your gauge showing on your dash? Does the engine perform ok on the road? Using an infrared gun ($10 on Ebay may not be exact but can be used for comparison), what are the temps at the exhaust ports, at the collectors, at the cat convertor, etc. Check cooling hoses, radiators, etc. with gun also. We NEED more data. Pics would be helpful.
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CCIE -- with the glowing exhaust and other things you have described I'd have to agree that you likely have a timing issue. I once had a Ford pickup that overheated and spewed water all over the place. It was tracked down to a leak in a vacuum hose that threw the timing off. Replaced hose and all was fine. Your engine is more complicated than my old carbureted Ford but the idea is the same. By the way, if you want to learn more about pressure tanks, go to jimdinner.wordpress.com. On the right side there is a list of archives. Click on the "July 2012" and scroll down to the write-up titled "Radiator Caps Explained". Jim does a good job of explaining radiator systems.
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The 3800 would not be running if it had a timing issue though, that is something that is controlled by the computer and is not adjustable except for minor (+/- 2 degrees) tuning.
I did not ask if the exhaust manifolds are FROM a Fiero, I asked if they are the same type construction as on the Fiero, meaning thin wall steel pipe. If they are, and are not cast iron, then they are going to glow red hot during high RPM's. Every engine with steel tube exhaust manifolds are going to glow at some point, its just the nature of the construction.
I've had a V6 Fiero engine in my build from the start, with a fiberglass body all around it and have never worried about it catching fire even though my engine is perfectly tuned and the exhaust manifolds glow red hot during high RPM's like they are supposed to.
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My head is still spinning from "how did the water get into your fuel tank" but here goes. What are you doing to get the manifolds/headers to glow? What temps is your gauge showing on your dash? Does the engine perform ok on the road? Using an infrared gun ($10 on Ebay may not be exact but can be used for comparison), what are the temps at the exhaust ports, at the collectors, at the cat convertor, etc. Check cooling hoses, radiators, etc. with gun also. We NEED more data. Pics would be helpful.
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Jim.... Last year we had torrential rain and flash flooding in my area. My NAERC was parked in my driveway though it was fully covered I was worried. Unfortunately I have had many many issues with this car and slowly I have been trying to remedy them. I am a computer person, though I have knowledge of cars and learned a lot through the years, i am by no means a professional mechanic when it comes to cars, specially as complex these home built replicas are. I also lack patience and time to do deep mechanical work, its easier to get someone who is professional mechanic to take care of things that would take me a many hours, there are lots of professional mechanic out there but it seems there are lots of professional "Scam artist" in my area, anyway I had a mechanic look over the "not starting" issue and he told me that there is water in the gas tank and the tank needs to be dropped, cleaned, ect ect scam scam ripoff ripoff blaaa blaaa ect. he saw Lamborghini and many $$$$$$... I bought into it because of the torrential rain and the location of the gas fuel door facing up in the car as well as for its cheap quality. In the end from what I recall, it wasn't the "water in the tank" it was the fuel pressure regulator that was bad.
To ans your questions:
What are you doing to get the manifolds/headers to glow?
It will glow just by idling. It will be red hot after driving even short distances
What temps is your gauge showing on your dash?
I dont trust the dash gauges yet but the temp shows under 200 (more to follow)
Does the engine perform ok on the road?
Seems to be running fine but I have many other issues to deal with on this car
Using an infrared gun ($10 on Ebay may not be exact but can be used for comparison), what are the temps at the exhaust ports, at the collectors, at the cat convertor, etc. Check cooling hoses, radiators, etc. with gun also.
I will collect the data later this week once I have a bit of time and post
Jim thank you again for all the ideas and your vast knowledge in assisting me. I am looking forward to seeing your build again soon
CCIE
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Murci-Me: Wouldn't the manifolds show excessive heat if the cat conv/exhaust had a restriction?
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i would try taking out the cats might be the cuase
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Is the engine a stock build or has it been modified and re-tuned? If it's a timing or fuel issue then id assume it's either going to be a bad tune, bad ecu, or bad cam position sensor. Im assuming its a timing issue. If the ecu tells the plugs to fire too late when the exhaust valve is already open then the explosion is going to blow out into the exhaust.
Im not an expert though so take my suggestions with a grain of salt. Also, I'd ceramic coat your headers once you figure it out.
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It's been a long time since the last post. Just wondering if you figured out the issue? I'm finally working on my 3800 to get it ready to do an engine swap and wanted to know what you found so I don't have the same issues. I am replacing sensors as I go along cleaning it up painting and replacing common things that fail and gaskets that may leak. Ill attach a pic but it is still in pieces. I plan to put some headers on it any one have recommendations? I'm leaning towards ones like this. https://www.protuninglab.com/hds-gp97.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=140848870378&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8pnu0u2j4gIV1UsNCh1aUA0ZEAQYASABEgLTKvD_BwE (https://www.protuninglab.com/hds-gp97.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=140848870378&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8pnu0u2j4gIV1UsNCh1aUA0ZEAQYASABEgLTKvD_BwE)
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I used the Mustang 3.8 v6 headers with small mod on middle flange. need enlarged bolt on hole mounting , and used Mustang header gaskets. they are pointing down so the heat is lower. I have no issues car runing inside the garage and 90F heat. btw get Spal fans 12" 1630 cfm . the one that comes with Delsol rads are half of cfm. my engine is stock only smaller pulley and flashed chipped ecm. engine is 99 GTP but ecm is 97 or 98 due to you can opeb a little cover and replace chip. and for last I have all wiring notes witch wire is for what , ( two plugs did my own harness)
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here is the ecm and headers
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Still working through the issues. Cats was one of the issue. Rads and fan is another. More to follow since this is a back-burner project.
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Ok thanks for the update. Since mine is registered as special construction I don't need to install any cats. I do have a new radiator 3 core with an electric fan that is supposed to have a higher CFM. Hoping that is enough.
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only one??
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Yes I kept the one up front and so far no issues with cooling but like I said a 3 core aluminum rad with a high flow fan.
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On my IFG 60 replica with a v8 I have a 4 core large radiator upfront with a spal fan and its not enough.......
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to my opinion ,you can have 6 core rad but its the air flow that is important . even some diablo kits with two rear rads over heat , you are using Fiero or G6 transmission or LP ?
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to my opinion ,you can have 6 core rad but its the air flow that is important . even some diablo kits with two rear rads over heat , you are using Fiero or G6 transmission or LP ?
Eddy!!!..... Yep you are absolutely correct my friend. Airflow not only for the radiators but also in the engine bay. There is hardly any air flow in the engine bay. I am getting fans installed to suck air in as well as to suck it out of the engine bay, hopefully the fans will keep the air moving ....
I have a SBC 350 with a 600 CFM carb hence I have the typical vapor lock issue.
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At what temps in your cooling system are you calling "overheating"? and what are your accurate temps in your engine bay?
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