LamboClone - The Premier Site for Lamborghini Replica Builders
How To - Tips => Doors => Topic started by: No Bull on April 02, 2012, 06:00:27 PM
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I've posted many pictures on this topic so be sure to give your computer enough time to download everything.
There are many different types of door hinges out there. Your choice should depend on your budget and how close you how OEM you want to remain in appearance.
The Diablo and Murci hinges are basically the same and this is what a OEM hinge looks like:
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/$(KGrHqUOKkUE1GKH!7SdBN(G)K3J!Q~~_3.jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/$(KGrHqQOKp0E0V7,0EISBN(G)RimEw~~_3.jpg)
Here are a different styles of hinges that I've seen used on replicas (some of these may not be around anymore and I don't have names of sources for these hinges)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/DSC_0034.jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/hinges1.jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/hinges22.jpg)
For my build I decided to go with a set of OEM style reproduction hinges made by 01Lambiero
The following pictures will detail what is involved in making a set of these hinges work on a G28 based body.
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/Hinge005[1].jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/DSC_1149.jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/DSC_1153.jpg)
01Lambiero makes these for both the Diablo and the G28 based Murci kits and the difference is the width of the hinge that attaches to the door. The G28 body is more narrow than the Diablo bodies which leaves no room for a OEM sized hinge. Here are the differences between the hinges as they are mounted to a Murci body and note the overhang in the door sill pocket that the Diablo hinge has.
Diablo sized hinge mounted onto a G28 body
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/DSC_1186.jpg)
Modified G28 sized hinge mounted on a G28 body
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/DSC_1149.jpg)
Diablo hinge dimensions
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/LHLamboHinge[1].jpg)
G28 hinge dimensions
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/RHLP-640[1].jpg)
The key to using any hinge is to make sure your hinge mounting plates are built strong and mounted in the correct positions. Below are pictures of what the mounting locations would look like if you decided to go with a OEM style hinge.
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/HingeSupporttubing-1[1].jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/Carlisle10017[1].jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/IMG00170-20110926-2040.jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/IMG00171-20110926-2040.jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/IMG00173-20110926-2040.jpg)
If going with an OEM style hinge, instead of attaching the hinge directly to the door like some other hinges will have you do (welding or bolting) you'll need to fabricate a "hinge block" that the hinge will bolt to and the block is attached to the door. This allows for more adjustment but more importantly it gives the hinge the right angle and step that enables the door latch to lift up and off of the catch and provides the right amount of clearance above the top of the fender once the door is in the upright position.
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/150os_door_hinge_and_gas_ram[1].jpg)
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/IMG_0555[2].jpg)
I made my hinge blocks by welding together six sections of 1/4" steel into a box and tapping the hinge mounting holes into the ends.
(http://www.lamboclone.com/pictures/DSC_1114.jpg)
Enjoy and best of luck with your door hinges. 8)
Chris
- Many of the pictures shared were provided by others, so a big thank you goes out to those builders.
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This is all great info, I had no idea there were so many hinges and ways to mount them...
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Is the pivot pin held in place on the center bushing, where the pin actually rotates inside the outer bushings? I made mine with set screws on the outter bushings with a grease zirk on the center bushing, allowing the center bushing to rotate around the pin... I figured it would be better to have more rotating surface area.
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I'm no expert but that is exactly the way I would do it. Seems to make the most sense to me.
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My $0.02 The further away your bushings are from the center of the hinge pin, the less side movement you will have at your latch.
Jim
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Thanks to NoBull for the Info and time well spent.
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Here are a few more hinges to add to the list
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/dustin_butler/Screenshot2012-06-19at110402AM.png)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/dustin_butler/Screenshot2012-06-19at110355AM.png)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/dustin_butler/Screenshot2012-06-19at110419AM.png)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/dustin_butler/Screenshot2012-06-19at111049AM.png)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/dustin_butler/Screenshot2012-06-19at110341AM.png)
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i need affordable hinges asap!
keep the fancy schmancy paint the powdercoat! dont need it! bare steel! thanks!
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Thoughts to keep in mind when choosing your door hinges. Good hinges are not cheap hinges. Sometimes during your build you must put quality ahead of price ie: windows, taillight lens, grilles, emblems, etc. Your hinge is ? 40" distance from your latch? Let's say you went really cheap and bought a barn door hinge from your local hardware store. Yes, it does have a little slop in it from side to side. Now multiply that movement 40" away. I think that you get the picture. Bronze bushings are good and inexpensive in building a hinge. I don't know how many openings and closings they would do before they show any wear. I have also put needle roller bearings in some hinges. You have to watch which needle bearings you purchase also. Some have caged rollers. I don't like these as the needles are spread apart from each other. I like the ones with lots of bearings next to each other. I would think that these bearings would live for decades and never need relubrication as your doors only move approx. 45ยบ to the opened position. I don't have any CNC equipment. My mill is a manual op type as is my old lathe. I spend 2 days building a set of hinges. Metal, bearings, stainless pins, machining, metal finish, welding, etc. It all adds up to a quality hinge. Check the quality of the hinges before you buy or make sure that you can return them if you don't like them. Expect to pay somewhere between $350-500 for hinges or you can purchase OEM for $1000 ea. OUCH!!!
Jim
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Here is a video that Jamie posted on YouTube a while back. This is another idea for non-OEM style hinges that seems to be very strong and work really well.
Start at the 1:00 mark
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruJw5tqPE6I&feature=plcp (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruJw5tqPE6I#)
Chris
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Here are some pics of the OEM hinge and in an installed 'exposed' view to hopefully illustrate the position and angles required to mount and give clearance to the front wing.I have removed the front wing to give an x-ray type effect which should show the full range of movement.
Regards ::wave
Original door fully open - hinge close to aperture edge.
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/LamboReplica%20Build%20Album/Originalopenangle.jpg)
Replica door fully open
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/LamboReplica%20Build%20Album/Myopenangle.jpg)
Door closed - x-ray view
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/LamboReplica%20Build%20Album/ExposedHingeCLOSED.jpg)
Door open - x-ray view
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/LamboReplica%20Build%20Album/ExposedHingeOPEN.jpg)
Hinge profile - showing offset and angle required for clearance.
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w198/V12-Runner/LamboReplica%20Build%20Album/Hingeprofile.jpg)
::thumbup
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I think this is the first time I've ever seen a picture of the hinges from the side that show an obvious curve in the hinge for extra fender clearance. Other pictures that I've seen in the past would make you think that the hinge was just flat casted piece.
I'm looking forward to seeing your CAD drawings for hinge, hinge shelf, door and door block for a G28 so we can finally see the mechanics behind a properly mounted door with an OEM styled hinge.
Thanks,
Chris
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Awesome Tip! I've heard horror stories about making the doors works properly. Thanks for making this thread sir!
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String i noticed the air bag switch. nice touch.Me and Rodney have one and maybe use it as power off on ignition ( we got the key) Jim installed one too on his 6.0.
back then I asked who wants one? got no reply
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Isn't that a pic of an oem car?
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The car door in that video is done exactly the same as I did mine. Notice how he made the frame in the door go around the perimeter, leaving the center open? I see some people who do some wierd angular thing with diagonal bracing, but if you ever break a window, you will have no way to install a new one with the diagonal bracing in the way.
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Don't get too ga ga over the OEM hinge angle. The OEM hinge is built for an OEM door on an OEM car body. Be prepared to modify your replica body/chassis and your replica door inner to accept the OEM hinge. Most of us are over this hump as we have had to modify most everything that we have attempted during our builds. That's where the fun comes in. If you want a good looking replica, then it maybe the way for you to go if your skill level and budget are up to it. ::thumbup my $0.02, Jim
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I'm in favor of the perimeter frame inside the door. I think that it serves several things: Safety and strength are two that come to mind. Connecting the hinge to the latch is a must.
I saw these hinges on Ebay. They are well designed and look nice BUT I don't want them on my car just for the safety concern. I would think that a 5 mph hit would snap them in half. You only have two support areas that need to be strong on the sides of our builds, the Hinge area and the Latch area and they both must be connected to provide some margin of safety.
Jim
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Hi Murcie-Me
Would you be willing to provide details on your perimeter door frames and hinges?
I want to do the same approach but cannot find details
Thank you!
Also, do you know of anywhere that shows the best way to hook up and run the radiator plumbing (hoses/etc) from a dual radiator set-up to the engine?
THANK YOU!!
Peter
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I am looking for OE hinges if anyone has a set then decided to use something else... Can't swallow paying ebay stagnant prices...
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I did a video on how I made my door hinges based on design elements from Charley Strikland.
https://youtu.be/S7VCUmrTQbI