Eddie asked me to detail the actuator on the swaybar, so here it is for the whole Forum. This is not a perfect solution, but it is a cheap and easy solution. There are a few things to know first. It keeps the swaybar from acting like a true swaybar, as it will no longer transfer twist (and weight) to the other wheel because the actuator mount is rigid and both sides of the bar now work independently. For the same reason, the rating of the bar will double, there is only half as much bar to twist. Unless you are racing in a Grand Prix, economics probably trumps these factors. Another thing to remember is not to weld the arm to the oil quenched spring steel of a swaybar. I machined a Woodruff keyway slot in the bar and used a couple of two piece shaft collars on the arm and it worked fine. Last thing, the bar is still going to act like a swaybar when it is used to lift. If it was originally a 300lb bar, now it is 600 on both sides, and the front axle supports 1,200lbs, it is going to flex an inch before it lifts. While we are on the subject, this drawing shows the swaybar connected to the top a-arm, which is unusual. From the beginning I have had trouble getting good geometry on these cars, especially on the rear where a transaxle is in the way. After a great deal of research, all of the experts agreed that a swaybar does not know which a-arm it is attached to and it works the same, so long as the different motion ratio of the upper arm is considered. And a final thought, that touches on the fact that a 300lb swaybar is nowhere close to a 300lb swaybar in that car, let alone another car or another car.
