G28 - Simple Mans, Simple REDO of an G28 LP640

[Simple Man]

Ho ho ho! 

Got some great parts from Murcie Me, fantastic.

If my headlight parts were only as good! I would be done with them 

[Simple Man]

Someday I will have headlights

Ground down both sides
Fiberglass both sides
Sand test fit sand

pretty close

[Simple Man]

Crisis averted!!

3m adhesive was applied the to eyebrow.  after about an hour I put the glass on and something didnt look right.....

Was able to remove the eybrow.  Will have to add a 1/2 inch to the top and right side edge.

REDO!! 

[Simple Man]

headlights

Drivers side well under way, had an issue on bottom tubs which required surgery.

Passenger headlight - eyebrow affixed next will be sealing the glass.

A lot of time in these, and more to go!! 

[Simple Man]

Got a start on the ugly wiring harness. Parts I had for the camber and lower strut bolts.... were the wrong ones  had to reorder....

Finished adding the sensors to the pipe and barbs to my tank for the cooling system...yes a series system   Will have to see how it works out...or not    The pull sensor will be just before the first radiator the push sensor on the exit of the 2nd radiator.

[Simple Man]

SM: You are really starting to scare me.  You actually look like you know what you're doing!  Nice work. ;-)  Will you be coming to Carlisle next year?

01

thanks 01 - actually I don't no $hit, but I can tell if something looks like crap

For the headlights had the order of steps a bit off but turned out okay
S/B
1.  Make upper tub fit glass , fiberglass flange
2. Cut holes for lights
3. Sand tub, fill pin holes primer sealer - repeat
4. Make lamp adjusters
5. Mock fit
6. make bottom tub - Mold not out of cardboard but mdf
7. Color paint and clear
8. Assemble

or something like that

[01Lambiero]

SM: You are really starting to scare me.  You actually look like you know what you're doing!  Nice work. ;-)  Will you be coming to Carlisle next year?

01

[Simple Man]

For the headlight made a flange/lip for the upper tub.  Clamped  in place inside the glass. Now there is a decent surface for the sealant and I like the way it sits in the glass

[Simple Man]

got the last dregs of engine items needed and installed engine hopefully for the last time

Now I can sort out the rear brakes

[Simple Man]

Added about 6 oz of csm to the top side,  then removed the original material from the bottom side, if that makes sense. 

Pretty happy the way it turned out.  Some dyna glass and rage gold to finish. 

Really leaning towards adding the fiberglass flange all the way around the lens. 

Good news on the drivers side very little warp and fits nice in the lens.   

[Simple Man]

Well the headlight build for the drivers side will go smoother from all that I have learned from the passenger side 

Decided to mount the upper tub recessed into the glass on the ledge.  The ledge at the top and bottom of the glass is wider and some adhesive will be used to affix it to the glass.  Going to try to locate another set of tubs for future use 

A recuring theme with the REDO... there always seems to be issues .

The fiberglass headlights are warped    After sanding the tub to fit inside the ridge and resting of the ledge the tub flares up.  Going to have to add fiberglass CSM to the inside to build it up.

onward!!

[Simple Man]

How to attach the replica tubs to the glass 

Thinking about this way. Trim the tub to rest on the inner ledge of the glass lens. Put a bead of sealant as pictured.

If the lens fogs up over time, the sealant will be easier to remove than if the bucket had the OEM flange.

something to ponder for a few days 

[Simple Man]

Well made some attachment brackets, or at least the first version 

[Simple Man]

I would hold off on the desiccant unless really needed.  It seems like it occurs mostly on daily drivers with seam problems which are driven in the rain.  The youtube fix? is to blow low pressure air into the headlight for a few minutes through the bulb hole thus removing the humid air that has accumulated inside the headlamp.  The warmer the air blown in, the less time needed.
01

(my thinking on this problem is that hot air expands inside the headlight when lights are on.  This breaks the seal of the unit.  As the air cools, it pulls in the moisture where ever it can like rain or washing the car.  Possible cure might be to drill a 1/4 inch hole at a location that is not visible (in the bottom?) and glue a cigarette filter in the hole.  This would allow for the air expansion/contraction without pulling moisture into the light bucket)  my $.02

Something to think about for sure.  Im not sure the heat blows the seams in the OEM headlights as the OEM headlights have drains in them. 

there is a youtube video that states having the lights on causes the problem in the OEM lights. 

I think the main thing I am thinking about when putting these together is how to get them apart if the lens get cloudy. With my removable bottom tub I can inspect the desiccant packets and replace if needed.  They turn color as they fill up.

I'm not sure what the solution is and even Audi hasn't figured it out

I'm a ways from sealing mine up so I will have to ponder.....

Thanks for the comments 01!

[01Lambiero]

I would hold off on the desiccant unless really needed.  It seems like it occurs mostly on daily drivers with seam problems which are driven in the rain.  The youtube fix? is to blow low pressure air into the headlight for a few minutes through the bulb hole thus removing the humid air that has accumulated inside the headlamp.  The warmer the air blown in, the less time needed.
01

(my thinking on this problem is that hot air expands inside the headlight when lights are on.  This breaks the seal of the unit.  As the air cools, it pulls in the moisture where ever it can like rain or washing the car.  Possible cure might be to drill a 1/4 inch hole at a location that is not visible (in the bottom?) and glue a cigarette filter in the hole.  This would allow for the air expansion/contraction without pulling moisture into the light bucket)  my $.02