batbuilder's LP640 called "No Mercie"

[LP 640 NuCountry]

Now that is a project,Wow!!!!!!

[batbuilder]

Need to get some rest but I wanted to show you a pic of my Big Kahuna batpod inspired replica. Thanks for looking ...dave

[batbuilder]

Here is the backside of the steel brace and where the main attachment for the fiberglass headrest will be. Its been sanded and acetoned ready for glass.

[batbuilder]

This is the original steel on the fiero seat. 

[batbuilder]

Tried to take a couple close ups. because the brace is raw steel I tried to completely cover the brace to prevent the steel from rusting. We call them bleeders when the seal is broken and the rust bleeds out. Could have painted it but then the fiberglass would have been attached to the paint instead of the steel.

[batbuilder]

Here's what it looks like when its done.

[batbuilder]

The passenger seat is also set up with the  fiberglass wrapped around the brace.

[batbuilder]

Here's the inner door panel. It was very distorted all around so by slicing the fiberglass I could straighten it out.

[batbuilder]

The fiberglass set up really well to the steel brace on the headrest. I was concerned about having void areas netween the readrest and the steel brace.

[batbuilder]

I'm back... Got a bunch done on the No Mercy and the batpod replica. Going to try and get back on track with the pics I already took. Here's a picture of the resin. After squirting in the catalyst I mix it in for a minute. You can see the difference in the coloring. I got some new resin from Tap Plastic and the resin if blue in color. As the catalyst is mixed in the resin turns brown. Pretty nice to see the catalyst is mixing in.

[batbuilder]

Im going to pull off for now and let other post show up on the front home page. I apologize if my posts are bumping other new post. That's why I usuailly post in the evening. Again I wish the front page was set up a little different. Sorry about that. Thanks for looking...dave
 Had a question that was asked of me. A very good question. Here was my answer.
Brushes are readily available at Lowes for a dollar each. The resin is cheap there too or Walmart. Its harder to work with because its so thick. But I used it for years. Yes, you should be using polyester resin on fiberglass and epoxy resin on carbonfiber. Usually resin not setting up has to do with not enough catalyst. Either through applying or mixing. A little trick is to have a heat gun next to you so if the resin doesn't set you can hit it with the heat gun and cause it to set up. Tricks of the trade it took a while to figure out. Keep on working with it. There is a reason they say practice make perfect. Pretty soon you will be an expert in fiberglassing, but there's always more to learn. I'm far from perfect just a regular guy trying to build a car. Hope that helps...

[batbuilder]

Working with fiberglass you may notice it doesn't want to roll around a curve very well. Here's a trick you can use wait til the resin starts to set and then lightly wrap it with tape. The tape will help to hold the fiberglass on the curve until it fully sets. Makes for an awesome bond.

[batbuilder]

Here's a pic of a sanded and unsanded headrest Its a good idea to label which side is for which side. The bummer is to mock everything up with one side and the accidently use another piece for the attachment. Slight variations can make all the difference.

[batbuilder]

The question in my mind is I know I can shove mat around the tubing to attach the headrest but how do I know if I have maximum adhesion. Fiberglass and metal are non-like materials and don't always want to stick together. So on the headrest frame I sand, acetone and wrap the fiberglass around the bar. After it sets up I will sand, acetone and fiberglass between the fiberglass headrest and the fiberglass coated frame. I know this is a little overkill but I don't want a full upholstered wobbly headrest. Or one I lean on and it seperates.

[batbuilder]

Prior to laying down the fiberglass I have sanded, acetoned and brushed a layer of resin over the area. Then the wetted fiberglass goes over the seam. Roller are used for large area to release bubbles under the matt but in small areas you can poke the bubbles out with the brush end of the brush and move large bubbles towards the sides. Less bubbles better adhesion.