batbuilder's LP640 called "No Mercie"

[batbuilder]

Here is the tow bar I incorporated into the front skidplate. It worked effortlessly on our 20 mile tow.

[batbuilder]

The two areas are sanded and ready to be relaid

[batbuilder]

Here the corner was missed and now will have to be sand and relaid.

[batbuilder]

The second layer of resin started to set up on me and not laying down correctly so it will have to be grinded off. Usually I can tell when I have seconds left as the resin first stiffens then starts to clump. Best thing to do its scrape it off and and toss it. Now I have to sand and relay the layer when i knew better. Live and learn....

[batbuilder]

Here is where the paint stick was screwed in to keep the cuts aligned. I fiberglassed around it so now with the stick removed I can go ahead and finish the job. I sand the area again because the glass is set up and even acetone the area to get maximum adhesion. I will overlay two pieces of mat to tie everything together.

[batbuilder]

This is the lower corner that was a little off. The plate steel was put on there for a possible support for the power window motor. Its tack welded because it may be in the wong place.

[batbuilder]

The latching area is supported by foam board and tape to create an approximate replica of what was cut off and thown in the trash can. It will need a couple more fiberglassing sessions to get it correct.

[batbuilder]

Here is the mess I made with the fiberglass. Came out pretty good

[batbuilder]

Here is the long shot of the door.

[batbuilder]

The corner where the bottom and face of the inner door meet had to be cut and fiberglassed to let the bottom tilt down.

[batbuilder]

Here another pic of the hinge and the gas shock sleeve. Not really super happy with the hinge but I does work and we can tighten it up using some copper washers.

[batbuilder]

Hey tallon yeah I agree with that but the bottom of my inner door was warped upwards. When you see my plans for the inner door it will make sense why I needed to straighten them out. This was probably caused by the warp in the mold. Once the fiberglass sets up the only way to correctly straighten it out is to release the memory of the fiberglass. I'll show those pics next... Thanks for looking and chimming in. Jetts build really helped me understand the procedure. We ended up lowering the threshold moulding because it actually caught your feet when you spin in. Now its a little too low. Weird thing about the threshold weatherstripping is the door goes down and slides by the molding rather than resting on the weatherstripping. I think thats weird.

[batbuilder]

Hey autopro, thanks for looking. the charger grill was like  35 bucks and the easy thing would be to cut the edges off but I think you will like what we do with the end pieces. Were kinda jumping around but we will be back on the grills tomorrow. Today I spent a couple hours fiberglassing the head rests. They are going to be fricken sturdy. Hope you like what we did....dave

[Tallon]

Love this thread, thanks for showing all your glass work!
Is it necessary to have the bottom of the inner door all the way down? I thought it just needs to rest on the weather stripping and the outer skin covers the gaps? I understand the top of the door, though.
Thanks

[autopro]

Does it look like the charger grill will be a good fit?  I hope it is because this is a very good option and not that expensive.

You are doing an awesome job documenting your build and it is going to be very helpful once I start with my own, thanks