batbuilder's LP640 called "No Mercie"

[batbuilder]

The zipper that holds the seat cover on.

[batbuilder]

Here's a new crazy project. I have some seats but in looking at some of the pics on Robs CD I felt maybe I could do this. And I think the seats would look pretty good that way. I want to attach the fiberglass headrest a little different than Robs pics. But first got to strip some of this foam. I saw some earlier posts concerning Robs pics and its not really a "how to" CD but its true what they say a picture can say a hundred words. Even if something is not done the right way.

[batbuilder]

The whole tab is pretty small

[batbuilder]

Here is the inside of the door card again. I need to be able to wrap the piece with vinyl and then be able to positively mount it to the main panel. Some pieces may be carbon fibered and some will be wrapped in vinyl

[batbuilder]

The fiberglassing of these interior seams is a tough one to do but I have an idea. Its just so crazy it might just work

[batbuilder]

Here are the back of the door cards

[batbuilder]

Here is a better pic of the curled fiberglass tab making it impossible to install screws

[batbuilder]

Took a good nap today so I'm awake enough to post some progress pics. Here I am lengthening the tabs between the upper and lower dash pieces. The tab was curled on the upper dash so it needed to be cut off and now I will lengthen them by putting a piec of plastic sheeting between the two.Then fiberglass both the upper and lower.

[batbuilder]

Yeah Tallon, one of my favorite things is to take cars apart. Its always amazing how all the little connections make up a strong piece. But there is a lot to learn about the innovated ways the car manufacturers put interiors together. I remember reading an article about hotrods where they were suggesting that people put interiors in from Lexus, Acuras and Infinity because of the fine fit. I'm hoping to get a good upholsterer to give me a hand getting the interior dialed in.

[batbuilder]

Yes Murci-Me you are 100% right. It's like you have done this before.Lol yeah the cut in the bridge the dip to the left and the lack of mounting points is right on.yeah I was already of the opinion that the doors HAVE to be done before any interior parts could go on cause like you say where is the dash suppose to go.thanks for chiming in and letting me know I'm not crazy I'm just working with crazy puzzles. The width between the hand hold and  the the other piece is far wider than the actual dash. I have been considering cutting the console and widening it to fit to the grab bar piece but like you said nothing can be set until the door cards are on. Can't wain to get the car over to my garage to play with that.... Thanks for looking....dave

[Tallon]

I pulled a dash from a kia rio, cheap car, some of the screws seem impossible to get to even after taking out 30 screws it was still solid. Crazy. Had to cut it up to fully remove it but I didn't need it in good condition anyway. And none of the attachments were weak in this car even though they looked it. Maybe I'm just a newbie at pulling cars apart.

[Murci-Me]

The bridge that goes across the the pod area at the front of the dash can stay if you are using the G28 pod. If you are using a 2 piece pod (like OEM) the bridge needs to be removed.
The left side of the dash is the wrong angle to meet up with the pod, so that needs to be fixed, along with the area for the 5 button switches.
The dash mounts at the leading edge (where it meets with the defroster panel), on the sides of the dash, and where the upper and lower dash pieces meet on each side of the pod.
I know whay you guys are thinking right now,....."what the heck is he talking about?"
There is alot of work that needs to be done to these dashes before they can be installed. If you have one, you know that its just a basic piece of fiberglass with no mounting/mating flanges, and no way to attach it to the car. I will see if I can find some pictures and modify them to show what needs to be done for mounting.
Remember though, theres no point mounting your dash untill your doors are done. You need to have your doors done in order to mount your door cards on them, and get them in the right position on the door. Once that is done, the dash can be fitted to match the door cards, shifting the dash side to side or back and forth to match up with the cards and get an equal gap on each side between the dash and cards. It cant (and I mean impossible) be done the other way. The door cards only fit in one position on the door, they cant be shifted to meet up with the dash.
Always remember (always!) to allow for your upholstery thicknesses when fitting unupholstered (fiberglass) pieces.

[batbuilder]

I used a technique taught to me using fiberglass panels that you drill and tap. Then using stainless steel button head bolts you can tighten it up. If by chance you over tighten and strip it it's very easy to fill with fiberglass powder and resin then  redrill it. Once you strip aluminum the easiest is just bolt it in with a nut. Steel has to be pretty thick to tap like our hinge mount plates are 1/4". I like the ability to tack weld the nuts on the back of the sheet steel but then it's too heavy. So fiberglass for me on the panels. Another issue is the dash panels are individually upholstered to keep that expensive look. But then they have to be assembled to look right.   Just my two cents thinking out loud. Thanks for looking hope you like the pics. Was thinking about postin some gas pod pics if you don't mind...Dave

[batbuilder]

Oh this is good dratts, I thought it was just me. Yeah I would say it's a good idea to create a new bride Tallon just to keep the alignment of both sides of the dash. We found a dip at the back of the pod that does not seem tight. It pulls the pod down towards the left side. Since I've not had it in my car yet I don't know for sure. I do have that fiberglass tab in the back that slips under the dash kinds indicating that it should be attached to the dash. I've found in the past that securing the dash in strategic locations will give it a solid fit. By attaching the pod to the chassis and separate attachments to the dash you may get that solid rock mount on the pod and movement of the dash. And you won't be able to do a dukes of hazard jump....lol just kidding about that.on my last build I did a lot of finish painting before stuff was really done and paid for it with scratches and mis drilled areas. I promised myself not to do that again especially when the finish has to look like a $400,000 car. Little things like screws that don't belong really give it that kit car look. I look at my Mazda 3 I'm sitting in now and all of the attachment points of the dash to chassis are hidden. It's like how the hell is this attached? Each attachment by itself is pretty weak but the combination of all the attachment points make it a pretty solid structure. Will have to go to Pic-N-Pull and tear some stuff apart....dave

[dratts]

I'm pretty sure that we need the bridge.  I'm not going to do the "dukes of hazards" jump and the dash is secure enough for me.  It's just that there is a large gap between the gauge cluster pod and that bridge underneath it.