BondoGlass question

[eddie]

changing d subject bit, but I spray PPG, Dupont and RM water base and they all apply different way . curently using RM HD system and it's for me the easy one, ( you can cheat if you know how, on flate rate LOL)  .

[Robert]

Robert, I used a on JIM's 6.0 400 dry sand top it with PPG water based quad , I used Ecercoat feather fill, aftermarket 2K high build .few days after was dry sand with 600 on DA and re clear with Dupont clear.  Jim, month later cut and polished the whole car.
[quote) It looks great. We never sand the base coats, unless a large piece of dirt found its way into your paint job. Never Never sand metalics. It is always best to follow paint manufactures instructions.

[Tallon]

Cool! I've been using evercoat rage as a filler with no problems

[eddie]

Robert, I used a on JIM's 6.0 400 dry sand top it with PPG water based quad , I used Ecercoat feather fill, aftermarket 2K high build .few days after was dry sand with 600 on DA and re clear with Dupont clear.  Jim, month later cut and polished the whole car.

[Robert]

Isn't there some shrinkage with bondo over time tho? Whereas the newer brands don't?

One of my co workers, worked for a company here in Michigan that produced many SEMA cars. He used Evercoat Rage Ultra Body Filler. We use PPG products at work, I am not impressed with any one them. The water borne paint works pretty good, but you have to have a finish sand of 600 grit, before you paint. PPG surfacers are garbage, DON'T use them. They will shrink, and you will see scratches months down the road.

My co worker went to a Ligenfelter party a few weeks back, and a couple of the cars he did a few years ago where there. The paint, and body work were still perfect. He used Rage body filler.

[Robert]

Isn't there some shrinkage with bondo over time tho? Whereas the newer brands don't?

One of my co workers, worked for a company here in Michigan that produced many SEMA cars. He used Evercoat Rage Ultra Body Filler. We use PPG products at work, I am not impressed with any one them. The water borne paint works pretty good, but you have to have a finish sand of 600 grit, before you paint. PPG surfacers are garbage, DON'T use them. They will shrink, and you will see scratches months down the road.

[eddie]

On fiberglass bodies should use polyester filler first then two pack high build. Thats what i used on Jims Lambo, Joes GTM and my two lambos .etc.kits. My 25th was finished on 1999 and the man who owns it now ,it"s stil the way was then .

[Tallon]

Isn't there some shrinkage with bondo over time tho? Whereas the newer brands don't?

[Thumper]

Yes Bondo did (and still does) have a bad rep because people would use it for the quick fix/quick sale instead of fixing it correctly.  Anyway I think I'll order some 3M panel adhesive and go that route.  I'll post up some more pics in my build diary in the 6ohh section when I get some progress done. 
I appreciate the replies!  I just don't want this thing to fall apart going down the road.  *beers*clink*more beers*

[Robert]

Panel bonding adhesive should only be used if you are over lapping the joint. If you have a butt joint, you need to have a backing over lapping under your butt joint.  3m 08116 works great! It can be sanded, and is very strong.
http://3mcollision.com/products/fillers-and-glaze/smc-repair/3m-panel-bonding-adhesive-08116.html

[eddie]

like Digi said, use panel bonding adhesive then work over with good body filler. I'm using 3M 08515 it's good for Steel, Aluminum,SMC and FRP.
 
you may need to buy special  gun for it so it comes out even from each tube.

[Digibeam]

I hear you there, Bondo brand has a bad rap attached to it from the 70s into the 80s as it was a fast way to take a rusty bucket and make it look pristine in a very short amount of time and effort.... Problem was the short time was just long enough to have it painted and sold to some poor sap who finds out in short time what they actually bought.
To the untrained/inexperienced bondo is the only snake oil needed to make a fast sale.

They do make an exceptional product, don't get me wrong, it's just a stigma attached to the brand name is all.
 

[Tallon]

Isn't bondo an inferior brand?
I wouldn't use it for anything
I keep seeing people say "bondo" but I don't think they mean the actual brand of filler :S

[Digibeam]

I would use a panel adhesive designed for the application and then dress it up afterwards with bondo or whatever surface finish agent you choose.

I believe no matter how much you rough it up delamination will take place, the door will be physically motivated more than any other part along with power windows that exert pressure on the door frame etc that will also try to open things up.

Panel adhesive is worth it's cost and gives you a permanent bond that can also have some flexibility depending on the type you use.

Just my thoughts. 

PS
No questions are dumb

[Thumper]

Might be dumb questions, especially since I've gotten this far on the build but here goes.  So I have the inner door frame complete and am ready to bond it to the fiberglass shell. 
Question 1: If I rough up the surfaces of the shell, can I bond it all together with Bondo Fiberglass re-enforced resin?  (like the stuff you get at Walmart or any auto store?) (I have access to get it real cheap)
Question 2:  Can I use the same to bond the outter door skin to the inner shell?

I've used it before for quick repairs of holes, shaping panels, etc... and it seems strong enough.  Anyone else use this or do you use the 3M stuff?  Recommendations/thoughts?