LP640 Future build

[autopro]

With your wheels on, lower your chassis to the floor and set the bottom of the frame at 5 to 6 inches off ground. Measure your bolt to bolt on the shock mounts. It should be around 12 inches. If it is then you need 10" compressed-14" extended.

Perfect! This makes a lot of sense, here I was worried that I had to get those before I started building the chassis, I'm glad I didn't.
Thanks for your help guys

[jdinner]

With your wheels on, lower your chassis to the floor and set the bottom of the frame at 5 to 6 inches off ground. Measure your bolt to bolt on the shock mounts. It should be around 12 inches. If it is then you need 10" compressed-14" extended.

[autopro]

I use QA1 shocks I think the specs go by the weight of the chassis but I don't think it matters so much that you have to get an exact spec setup

My main question on these is that there seems to be many different models, they all have a different compressed and extended height.  What I need to know is those two values.  These are the ones I was looking at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/QA1-Proma-Star-Drag-Shocks-DR4855B-DS401-Adjustable-Pr-/200629724651?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb676a5eb

[autopro]

My bad, you are right, the first is just basic tube chassis,the second is replica chassis and that is a replica . I asked Jim. see you learn everyday, i did not know that.
that's why mine use 10" 6 coil overs.

OK, so I noticed that yours have the rubber bushings on the ends and I was looking for the ones with a ball rod end like these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120908392001?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

That is what it calls for on the chassis list, do you think it makes a big difference?

[Tallon]

I use QA1 shocks I think the specs go by the weight of the chassis but I don't think it matters so much that you have to get an exact spec setup

[eddie]

My bad, you are right, the first is just basic tube chassis,the second is replica chassis and that is a replica . I asked Jim. see you learn everyday, i did not know that.
that's why mine use 10" 6 coil overs. 

[Tallon]

naerc had two different chassis I never compared the two but they look similar :S
The normal tube chassis is different though, it doesn't look complete and the firewall doesn't allow the oem tunnel, it's just a square opening so you can tell if it's the right one

[eddie]

on mine chassis I bought a rear TCI coil over 250 lbs each
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-ALL-AMERICAN-250-LB-COIL-OVER-SHOCKS-INSTALL-KIT-/300570727653?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fb6954e5&vxp=mtr

front 450 lbs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-ALL-AMERICAN-250-LB-COIL-OVER-SHOCKS-INSTALL-KIT-/300570727653?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fb6954e5&vxp=mtr
verify if need  8"

front use  each wheel 450 lbs ( one wheel)
rear      2 X 250 lbs per wheel ( total 4 shocks)  are you sure you have a NAERC plans or someone else?

[autopro]

VF1Skullangel
I actually am going to build this on a NAERC chassis.  Thanks to this thread and everyone’s help it has made my decision easier.  I already have a quote on the metal and have started to buy parts for my suspension.  Once I start with the actual building of the chassis I will post some pictures.  I will have many questions regarding the build but I know you guys will be able to help me out.

One of them right now is which coil overs to use for the front and rear suspension.  The chassis plans call for a 10” adjustable coil over, the fronts with  10” 250lb springs and the rears with 8” 400lb springs.  Now my question is what coil over shock to buy, it would help a lot if you guys could give me a model number.  It is very confusing for me because they all talk about the compressed height and the extended height and there seem to be all kinds of ranges.

[Tallon]

Well I used chassisworks plans to build mine then I used naerc to make it closer to oem, if I was going to build another I would have used naerc plans from the beginning but I didn't have them at the time.
Basically with the chassisworks frame the body just fits over it loosely but there's nothing in the plans to mount the body to there's not even side rails in it, all that framing you have to figure out. Then I had to figure out the differences of the two chassis' in the front to add the naerc front bumper section in the correct location. The rear firewall is different. Also in the rear of cw chassis you can't fit the one fuel tank you have to use two smaller ones. Kinda hard to modify that part.

[autopro]

If he's suggesting using a Chrysler 3.5 in a rear mounted configuration, then I can partially understand this and you could use the engine, frame, transmission, suspension and ECU from a car hit in the rear as the base and build your custom frame from / around that (just turn everything around to push vs. pull).  I had an LHS that had this engine and it ran very strong.  The transmission and electrical components were the weak links and the car started falling apart (transmission failure and gadgets stopped working) at around the 70,000 mile mark.

Just my personal opinion and I'm just trying to help.  At the end of the build you only need to make you and the next owner happy and of course we want everyone to be safe.   

Chris

Yes, this is exactly what he was saying.  I talked to him about it some more this morning and he gave me a few more pointers.  I asked him to come join the site and give us his input here.

[autopro]

I would still do mostly custom chassis, it's not like our g28 body where the donor car rear firewall is in the same spot as where it's supposed to be on the kit, oem body is different. The only build diary I can see following is Watson's and you can build that same chassis easily. I don't mind sharing the naerc plans if you want, the only differences are some rear and front sections and side rails are bent for diablo door sills.

I’m going to have to take you up on that offer my friend for the chassis plans.  I would like to see more of your build when you started it and how you got the chassis built and put the suspension on it.  It’s good to know that you will be able to point me in the right direction on what changes to make to the chassis so it fits the Murcielago body.  Thanks a million!

He's the best. and doesn't charge $50 for a lame guide with nothing in it like rob does.

Ya i fell for that.... the disk is nothing but pictures of other peoples build threads and all of his youtube videos... The only thing I found useful is how far I needed to cut the Fiero dash down. Oh well only money.

I almost bought it off e-bay, I even had it in my watchlist until I saw a couple of people complain about it only being pictures.  Now I’ve heard that the Extreme DVD is actually pretty good but they only sell it to people who buy one of their kits.

[usmc_butler]

He's the best. and doesn't charge $50 for a lame guide with nothing in it like rob does.

Ya i fell for that.... the disk is nothing but pictures of other peoples build threads and all of his youtube videos... The only thing I found useful is how far I needed to cut the Fiero dash down. Oh well only money.

[Tallon]

I would still do mostly custom chassis, it's not like our g28 body where the donor car rear firewall is in the same spot as where it's supposed to be on the kit, oem body is different. The only build diary I can see following is Watson's and you can build that same chassis easily. I don't mind sharing the naerc plans if you want, the only differences are some rear and front sections and side rails are bent for diablo door sills.

[No Bull]

Guys believe me I will post detailed pictures and start a build thread once I decide on the donor car.  John W. Did throw me for a bit of a loop today by suggesting that I use a Chrysler Sebring convertible as the donor car.  He said to install a Chrysler300 3.5 HO engine and transmission in the rear.  He said the Sebring was a very good donor since it has almost the same wheelbase and it's a cab forward design.

Please do not base your project on a front engine base.. please!    With all of the money you are going to spend, this is not one area that I'd suggest taking any shortcuts.  This is the foundation of your build and a poor base will make ruin even the best paint jobs and rims.  CarKit attempted to do this with their "Murcy 4" and use an F body (Camaro / Firebird) which I think looks completely out of proportion..  One of the reasons a Lamborghini looks so good is the lowered hoodline and front firewall that you can only achieve with a rear engined chassis.  Rather than totally engineer a front engined car to accept the body, it's much easier and ultimately less expensive to use a mid or rear engined donor.  If he's suggesting using a Chrysler 3.5 in a rear mounted configuration, then I can partially understand this and you could use the engine, frame, transmission, suspension and ECU from a car hit in the rear as the base and build your custom frame from / around that (just turn everything around to push vs. pull).  I had an LHS that had this engine and it ran very strong.  The transmission and electrical components were the weak links and the car started falling apart (transmission failure and gadgets stopped working) at around the 70,000 mile mark.

Just my personal opinion and I'm just trying to help.  At the end of the build you only need to make you and the next owner happy and of course we want everyone to be safe.   

Chris