Mitch's MR2 LP640 Roadster build.

[MDMurcy2]

While all of this was goin on, I wanted to take time to grind down and make up the side mirrors.  These were a mess with so much excess on them, I wasnt sure where to start.  But they eventually took shape.  Lots of gaps that need some work in the end.   But this is what was given to me, so gotta get it.  Pictures do no justice to the amount of work here.  Each one took several hours to get right before bonding together. 

       

[MDMurcy2]

Took a little time to skin up the doors.  CKI over cut the shape of the inner doors Leaving me with a large gap between the outer door skin and inner.  I used small wooded blocks to fill in and allow me areas I could grind down and screw the skin to temporarily.  Again, took a little extra work but got it done.   When I am ready to bond the skins, I will add fiberglass and make out the correct filling.   The Drivers side was really bad off, about 3/4" in spots, the passenger side wasnt as bad off. 

     

[MDMurcy2]

A few more pics.  Other side and hinge mount.   

     

[MDMurcy2]

After getting my body situated, it was time to get to the doors.  CKI provided some simple barrel pin hinges that really didnt fit the design, but I made them work.  Had to cut them to change an angle a bit.   Hung the door at the latch first then framed it all in. 

Since my build is a roadster, I decided I didnt want to spend any extra time and money on windows for the doors.  Some guys dont agree with that, but for me it saves money, time, and for a car that I never intend on using unless the weather is beautiful anyways, I just didnt justify it.  I will make the door look like a window is in there, with the seals and all, but it will be a hollow door.   Anyways, heres the framing of what I did.  The door turned out very solid and has no warble in it at all, and it closes and opens perfectly.   

         

[MDMurcy2]

 

[MDMurcy2]

Got back under the body and started clamping 3/4" tubing in key areas, also clamped up a sill support using 3" x 3/8" flat bar and 3/4" tubing.   Just got in and welded supports in the critical areas to center up and support the body as needed for the time being.  Again, since the body is meant to be framed in using a Fiero, there were no actual points that made contact with the body.  I just had to get under there and tack stuff up, remove the body, weld it, put the body back down, tack more spots, etc, etc.......  Took a bit of time. 

     

[usmc_butler]

Love the detal and close up pictures! 

[MDMurcy2]

Heres some close ups of the body and where it sits.
In front the fiberglass rests on the MR2's bumper frame support structure.  Very easy to make a mount and attach the fiberglass here, and very solid.   In the passenger area you can see the MR2's firewall and where the Lambo's firewall would be.  There is alot of space here.   Alot of leg room.   And in the rear.  I welded this support coming from the MR2's rear bumper supports.  I used 3/4" tubing and 3" tubing along with a 3" x 3/8" thick flat bar I had lying around.  This made the support for the rear Lambo's trunk area and was a great starting point for the sub framing.  A solid foundation off the MR2's main framing. 

       

[MDMurcy2]

So here was the first fit.  Not bad at all for a body not made to fit this chassis.   In later fittings, I cut a little more metal and fiberglass off and got the body to sit a little lower on the frame.  But here's pics of the initial fit. 

 

[MDMurcy2]

With the body on the ground and just slightly hoisted, I made marks on the concrete to show where the body was plumb and level.  Then I rolled the chassis underneath the body, centered its axles and frame to the body marks I had made, Then I marked the concrete where the wheels were for future positioning.  In later body removal and repositioning, all I have to do is place the wheels directly on the marks on the concrete and I know the body will lift perfectly and centered. 

Lifting and lowering the body several times and cutting portions of the fiberglass as needed to fit over the MR2's chassis.  Remember, the G28 is designed to fit over a Fiero, so it actually doesn't fall into place anywhere on the MR2.  It was trial and error till I got it to basically fit.   

     

[MDMurcy2]

After the stretch, I decided to build a hoist gantry system to lift my body.  I figured this would be the easiest way to take my body on and off when needed by myself.  I used 4 x 6 beams and 2 each 1 ton hoists I picked up cheap at harbor freight tools.  In all the system cost about $75 or so and was so very well worth the time to build.  It allows me to control my lift front and rear separately so I can maneuver the body easily around the framing structure when it was built up.  It proved to be money well spent. 

   

[MDMurcy2]

I did alot of cross measuring before hand to find the points I would use to measure from afterwards.  I also tacked alot of flat bar and tubing at the correct lengths in critical places as I went along.  Long, straight 3 1/2" angle Iron along the rockers also helped keep things lined up.  Believe me, I could have made it easier but I didn't know better and I just cut and dealt with it as I went along.  I didn't have time to be scared!  I just did it.   

Then here, I welded 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" angle iron to the outside of the rocker panels. This was welded underneath at the rail/seam and then on the outside where it made contact with the rocker. Using the 3 1/2" piece worked perfectly to make a 90 degree surface that will later be used to weld the metal needed for the body support underneath the lower jambs/sill of the Murcy. Plus, this added great support and rigidity to the chassis and to the cuts on the rocker panel after the stretch.

   

[autopro]

Excellent job with the stretch, I always enjoy seeing how people come up with their own engineering solutions.  I have to say that yours are very well thought out and I especially like the way that you can easily do repairs if needed since you kept all the original parts.

What did you do to ensure that the car remained aligned after you started welding it?

[MDMurcy2]

As you can see in this pic.....I did not cut any of the electrical wiring harnesses of the car.  CKI recommends cutting and extending them.  They didn't look hard enough at all.   Just look for all the connections to the firewalls and rockers and remove the clips.  There is plenty of excess slack in the harnesses so that the OEM integrity does not have to be compromised.    The less cutting, the better. 

[MDMurcy2]

The shifter connections were also very easy to extend.  I did not do CKI's suggestion of using all thread.  I didn't care for their setup.  Had too much flex.   I used parts from a used gas strut and some simple flat bar and line clamps.   Made for a very solid structure and no flex.  Also, kept the integrity of the OEM shifter cables, so replacement is easy if needed with no mods required in the future.