PK's new build

[pkovgolf]

  Thank you very much
If I could get my body roll cage/side support welded, and my radiators plumbed the rest of the way, I could get this done pretty quick after (although I need new rear brakes too)

I wish I had a shop I could keep it at and pop it on a lift, etc.  :0

Wish I was a good/fast welder!

Thanks again
Peter

[Robert]

Your project is coming along nicely! Good work!

[pkovgolf]

Chuckle
I knew what you meant

Thank you!

[01Lambiero]

Sorry, pkovgolf, I used the phrase "knurler" and I meant "bead roller".  A senior moment at it's worst.

Jim

[pkovgolf]

Could.somebody PLEASE measure
1) the distance distance across the lower edge of the body from outside rocker front edge to the opposite side
2) the distance distance across the lower edge of the body from outside rocker rear edge to the opposite side ( right before the air intake area where the black mesh grate goes)  ?

mine was.molded so.poorly i am cutting and redoing a lot but want the 'correct distances' 


THANK YOU in advance

[pkovgolf]

Well said Jim

I know it will bother me if things aren't 'right' / well done / etc

Thanks again
Peter

[01Lambiero]

I used 1.5" dia. tubing.  It may be a little large for the windshield side pillar, but I want it to be strong in that area as well as overhead around the doors.
The tubing bender from Harbor Freight is for bending conduit etc.  A "true" tubing bender has a die that is the exact diameter of the tubing on each side of the tubing during the bend.  In the end, you end up with a bend without a squash in the corner.  Some builders have used the HF bender and it worked for them so it's up to you.  I do think that the double die system that is totally used in pro chassis builders is stronger and looks better even though you are the only one that will probably see the bends.  A good bender, a good welder, a good plan, and wise decisions will make your car stand out because you know that you didn't cut any corners when it comes to safety.  You will notice that I left out "a good budget".  Their isn't one!

Jim

[pkovgolf]

Nice job on the tubing knurler Jim!!!
Also, on the seemless tubing, with diameter did you use?

Why 'not' the one from Harbor Freight?  (I ask because I bought that one :0  )

Thank you both

[01Lambiero]

I made my own tubing bead roller.  There are some available.  Google.  I purchased my aluminum tubing on ebay .060" wall.  For my roll cage, I purchased seamless, mild steel, .090 wall tubing from a local race parts dealer in southern Michigan and bent it with a tubing bender (not one of those from harbor freight).

Jim

[SchulzeA]

1.25" tubing. Prices are normally half of the Internet price when I pick up material. I suggest calling them for better prices.

http://www.shapirosupply.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_2_10&sort=20a&page=4

[pkovgolf]

Thank you for the great picture and diagram!

[pkovgolf]

Sorry, somehow I missed both your responses!
 Thank you
I have no problem removing the trunk - it isn't very useful anyway.  Do you have any information on properly removing it without damaging anything?

How did you knurl the ends of the aluminum tubing?

Also, where did you get your 1-1/4" aluminum tubing - I am having a hard time finding it.

Also, what did you guys use for your roof support - e.g. square or round stock and what type/size metal? 
Since it should work as a roll cage, did you use the expensive tube stock or the cheaper welded rolled rod stock?

THANK YOU!
Peter

[usmc_butler]

Just for ease of plumbing your radiators, I would sacrifice the trunk for now and refab it after all of the waterworks are done.  You can also run the return hose from the LH radiator forward and across the firewall side of the engine if it works out easier for you.  However the exhaust may conflict in doing so.  The Honda radiators are 1-1/4" dia. so you may need some reducers at the engine outlet and or lower inlet.  I used a '94 Bonneville upper radiator hose for my 90 degree bends.  This hose has 3 90 degree bends in it so you can save some $.  I also used 1-1/4" aluminum tubing for my straight connector tubes and knurled the ends to keep the hoses on.
Jim

x2 on sacrificing the trunk for now. I tried every way to keep it but just wasn't worth it and wouldn't cool very well with most of the truck in the way. Like Jim said get rid of it then custom make one down the road.

[01Lambiero]

Just for ease of plumbing your radiators, I would sacrifice the trunk for now and refab it after all of the waterworks are done.  You can also run the return hose from the LH radiator forward and across the firewall side of the engine if it works out easier for you.  However the exhaust may conflict in doing so.  The Honda radiators are 1-1/4" dia. so you may need some reducers at the engine outlet and or lower inlet.  I used a '94 Bonneville upper radiator hose for my 90 degree bends.  This hose has 3 90 degree bends in it so you can save some $.  I also used 1-1/4" aluminum tubing for my straight connector tubes and bead rolled the ends to keep the hoses on.
Jim

[pkovgolf]

Thank you - now I just need all the parts to plumb them

Wow (to usmc_butler) your build is beautiful