Author Topic: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic  (Read 4738 times)

No Bull

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2014, 10:24:49 PM »
OK, here is a replacement for the old schematic. 
RT

Thank you RT

Chris

RT

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #12 on: January 11, 2014, 10:21:58 PM »
OK, here is a replacement for the old schematic.  Everything is the same except for the corrected diodes.

RT
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No Bull

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2014, 08:22:31 PM »
Ok RT.. you've talked me into it and I'll give this a try.   ::thumbup

If you posted a new diagram, that would be awesome when you have time.

Thanks again,

Chris

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #10 on: January 11, 2014, 07:21:15 PM »
Chris,  If you like I will redo the schematic and repost but in the mean time I wanted to make sure I wasn't further confusing or misleading anyone.
I have had a discussion with someone else about how hard it would be to wire that system but I said all you have to do is think of it as a mechanical construction.  The hard work of figuring out what you need is done.  Now all you have to do is find someplace to mount all the relays and a terminal strip to connect all the wires.  The switches will be mounted in the door with the "door open" and "door closed" switches mounted in a suitable location for operation.  Then consider the red and black lines as "linkage" from one item to another with the dots as terminals on a terminal strip.  "Connect the dots".  You might find it fun and you could "turn the corner" on electrical work.
I have relays all over my build and had to find places for all off them.  Here are a few places:
1. beside the seat backs, under the side windows, behind the door jambs.  (In one location I made a box that goes into the rear quarter panel empty space. The other just a panel under the interior upholstery panel.)
2. along side the console, next to your feet and/or passenger's feet (just be sure to position a hard, carpeted, kick-panel over them so you don't do any damage.
3. inside the console (if you haven't already used that for too many other things)
4. under the interior rocker covers. ( I placed some in a line under that cover with terminal strip)
5. under the dash
6. between the upper dash and heater unit
7. build a box in the front trunk, maybe under a false floor or behind a false back panel.
Just get creative.
I encourage everyone to not be intimidated by wiring, especially if you have all the components and how they get wired together.  There are so many mechanical things that are much worse to do.  LOL

RT
It isn't enough to want a Lambo, you have to want to BUILD A CAR.

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2014, 04:23:41 PM »
Thanks for making the correction RT.   ::thumbup

Will you be posting a corrected diagram with these changes?  As I get closer to the electrical system on my car, I intend on taking all of this information to someone that specializes in electrical systems and have them build and install it.  The electrical part of the build is something I'll dabble in (installing the rear camera, instrument cluster and stereo) but stuff like this is a little overwhelming for me.   ::)

Awesome contribution to the site.. Thank You!

Chris

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #8 on: January 11, 2014, 02:53:35 PM »
IMPORTANT ! ! !
Hey guys, I was hoping somebody would catch any errors in that schematic but it looks like I did first!
The diodes (all four) shown in the schematic are drawn in the wrong direction.  The bar drawn on the diode should be on the opposite end of the diode.  That bar represents the end of the diode that BLOCKS current flow.  Current can not flow through the diode if it comes from that direction.  Obviously the current must flow from the window switch out to the relays and, as shown, that wouldn't happen.
Sorry about the error.

RT
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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2013, 02:13:27 PM »
What happens when you're sitting in the car, door closed, window up, and you pull the door handle manually?  Do you need to remember to lower the window manually first?

dwafford,
Nope!  Any time you use the inside door handle the window will "drop" IF it hasn't already "dropped" or if the window is opened any farther than the "drop" distance. 
The outside door handle will only "drop" the window if the door is unlocked AND if the window has not yet "dropped".  It will not cause the window to "drop" if the window is opened past the "drop" distance..
If you approach the car with the windows closed and doors locked, the outside handle will NOT drop the window (or open the door).  Once the door is unlocked,. the outside door handle will "drop" the window so you can open the door.
The best feature is, when you get into the car and you have not lowered the window below the "drop" distance with the door open, the window will close after you close the door.  You open the door, the window "drops".  You get in and close the door, the window closes.
You ARE able to open the window with the door open BUT you are not able to close the window with the door open.  That will prevent raising the window all the way up and then closing the door and have the window slam the roof. (If the door is open I don't see any reason to close the window anyway.)  Once the door is closed, you may close the window.  It will close automatically IF you have not lowered the window below the "drop" distance.
No question on this feature is a "dumb" question.  This is an intricate operation but can be done without computer control.
I hope this helps.

RT

EDIT:
You do have to install all limit switches to the locations as described,  The door handles have to activate limit switches as indicated.
There is mechanical work involved here as well as wiring.
I like to use 16 - 20 gauge sheet steel as limit switch trippers.  Make the device that trips the switch move as much as possible so the "tripping" is less sensitive.  Then you can bend the sheet steel to find-tune the activation.

EDIT 2:
I'd like to mention that the window re-close is especially good for when you get OUT of the car.  The window drops so you can exit and then re-closes after you get out so you can secure the car and lock the doors with the windows up.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2013, 07:44:38 PM by RT »
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dwafford

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2013, 01:22:00 PM »
RT,

Many thanks.  I think you've managed to explain this well enough that even I can do it.  I do have one more question, and I hope it's not too dumb.  What happens when you're sitting in the car, door closed, window up, and you pull the door handle manually?  Do you need to remember to lower the window manually first?  Thanks again!

No Bull

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2013, 02:05:15 PM »
RT... absolutely brilliant!   ::headbang

Thank you

Chris

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2013, 04:54:18 PM »
RT BIG thanks for taking the time to do this :notworthy! I will be printing all of this when I start on the wiring  ::salute

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2013, 11:34:04 AM »
dwafford,
Thanks for your interest and enthusiasm.  Even though you may not have much electrical savvy, I hope this isn't daunting for you.
The best way to wire this circuit is to make an electrical panel and attach the relays, diodes and terminal strip to a panel. Then connect the diodes and run the wiring from the switches, locks, and motors to the terminal strip.  Use your judgment and common sense to run the wiring.
I used relays from Summit Racing because they come with a connector and wiring:

http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Peco%20relays

I used diodes from Radio Shack.  You can find them on the shelf and if you need help choosing, ask one of the sales staff.

The SPDT snap-action switches I used came from:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#micro-switches/=przuu4

Use the Miniature or sub-miniature switches.  They are rated for AC but can be used with 12VDC.

The window switches and door lock/unlock button switches are Lamborghini or replica.
Most alarm systems will have a negative pulse to activate the locks.  If the unit you use has a positive pulse, just connect them to the locks without using the relays and send power through the lock buttons.  Then you can eliminate the two relays.
When you mount the limit switches be sure to mount them solidly and try to make the tripper motion travel as much as possible before it trips the switch.  That way they won't be as sensitive to window position.  I like to make the trippers from 20-16 gauge sheet steel and bend them for final adjustment.
Good luck.

RT
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dwafford

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Re: Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2013, 10:15:21 AM »
Many thanks; this is fabulous stuff!  For those of us who are electrically challenged, could you possibly provide specs or part numbers for the switches, relays, diodes (are there other components?  As I said, electrically challenged!)?

RT

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Roadster window and lock wiring schematic
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2013, 11:11:37 PM »
To all replica Lamborghini roadster builders…
I have worked long and hard to cover all aspects of operation for the replica Lamborghini ROADSTER power window and door lock wiring to provide the window “DROP” feature for opening and closing the door AND provide a “one-touch down window travel.  The following schematic and explanation should be printed and understood before you attempt the wiring.  Read the explanation and follow the circuits.
If anyone has an easier way to accomplish all of these features, or finds a problem with this, please stand up.

RT

This schematic details wiring of the power windows and locks for the replica Lamborghini roadster with a “one-touch down” feature for window operation.  This means when you want to open the door window you only have to touch the window switch enough to “latch” the circuit and the window will travel completely down and stop at full down position even when you release the window switch.  To stop the down travel at any point in its travel, just touch the window “up” switch.
Roadster wiring for windows is different from the window wiring for the coupe because the roadster needs to have the window “drop” before the door can open.  Operating the door handles controls the window “drop”.  The inside door handles will unlock the door and drop the window.  The outside handles will only drop the window if the door is unlocked.   Limit switches control window positions and permits for window drop.
I recommend the builder devise an interlock to prevent the door from unlatching (opening) until the window has reached the bottom of the “drop” travel to prevent interference with the window and roof if the door is opened too quickly.  This could be done with an electrical circuit but a mechanical interlock would be more positive.

1. Battery supplies fused 12 VDC to:
   Window switches (2)
   Relays: 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 13, and 14.
   Door lock switches “J” and “K”
   I.S. Door handle switches “N” and “S”
   Door open switches “A” and “E”
2. Pressing window switch “Down” sends power to trip relay #3 (#6) which sends power through “Down limit switch at bottom” “R” (“T”), through relay #12 (#10) to window motor and also back through relay #2 (#5) which latches relay #3 (#6) to continue down travel of window.  Diode “D 1” (“D 2”) prevents current flow back through window switch.  (Note: The Lamborghini window switch terminal changes to a ground terminal after the switch is manually released when the ground terminal for the window switch icon light is connected to ground as shown.  The window switch icon light gets power from the car’s dash gauge lighting circuit.)
3. Down limit switch at bottom “R” (“T”) breaks circuit when window is full down, unlatching relay #3 (#6) and stopping power through the window motor and latching circuit.  It also prevents sending power to the motor by anyone manually pressing the window switch on purpose or by accident when the window is fully down (open).
4. Pressing window switch “Up” trips relay #2 (#5), breaking the one-touch down circuit and stops window down travel at any position in window travel.
5. Window down motor ground passes through “Up limit switch at top” “X” (“U”) and through relay #1 (#4) to ground.
6. Pressing window switch “Up” sends power to trip relay #1 (#4), which sends power through limit switch “X” (“U”) to window motor.
NOTE: Windows will NOT go up when the door is open.  They may only be lowered with the door open.  Relay #1 (#4) trigger terminal 85 passes through limit switch “M” (“L”) “Door fully closed switch”.  This will prevent the automatic closing of the window in the drop position, or if an attempt is made to close the window with the door open, until the door has been closed.  You do NOT want to have the window in the full up position when you close the door.  Limit switch “M” (“L”) prevents this.
7.  Window up motor ground passes through relay #12 (#10), through “Down limit switch at bottom” “R” (“T”), and through relay #3 (#6).  Because relay #2 (#5) has been tripped by the window switch “Up”, the ground current does NOT pass through relay #2 (#5) and does NOT trip relay #3 (#6).  Diode “D 4” (“D 3”) prevents window up motor ground from tripping relay #11 (#9).
8. The Unlock switch, or alarm-unlock ground signal, trip relay #7 and sends power to right and left lock drive to mechanically unlock the door latches.  That will also mechanically close limit switches “J” and “K” sending power to O.S. door handles “P” and “Y”.
9. The “I. S. door handle switch” “N” (“S”) sends a power signal to right and left lock drives to mechanically unlock both door latches AND power to drop the window for their door only.  (You want to have the inside door handle unlock the door if you need to get out.  I recommend the handle(s) also have a mechanical connection to unlock the door in case of electrical malfunction.)
 10.  The unlock mechanical drive trips limit switches “J” and “K” sending power to “O. S. door handle switch” “P” (“Y”).  Opening the door by way of the O.S. door handle will signal window drop. (If the door didn’t unlock, the window will not drop and the door will not open.  Independent switches for each door will provide a safety measure if one fails.  I recommend a mechanical, key operation for the door locks.)
11.  When either I.S. or O.S. door handles signal for window “drop”, power is sent to trip relays #11 (#9) and #12 (#10) and through drop limit switch “W” (“V”) which latches the circuit until the window drop travel trips “W” (“V”) breaking the circuit.
12.  Relay #12 (#10) having been tripped, prevents the power from going through limit switch “R” (“T”) and relays #2 (#4) and #3 (#5).
13.  Diode “D 4” (“D 3”) prevents the ground from window “up” from back feeding the window down circuit.  (The grounding circuit is still power searching for ground until it connects with a ground.   It is why connecting devices in series cause all of them to run.)
14.  When the door is opened the window will drop as described above.  If the window has not been lowered beyond the “drop” travel with the door open, when the door is closed the window will go back up.  If the window is below the “drop” position, the operator must use the window switch to close the window.  There is NO one-touch window up until the window is in the “drop” range of travel (top 2”) where it will travel up by itself.
15.  Drop limit switches “V” & “W” are tripped through the top 2” of window travel.
(This limits the drop distance to 2” when doors are in an “unlocked” mode and either inside or outside door handle is operated.  If a different “drop” distance is used, be sure the window will clear the roof when the door is opened.)
         Drop limit switches “D” & “H” are tripped through the top 2 ¼” of window travel.
   (This keeps the circuit available for the “automatic window close” after the door has been opened.  If the window has been lowered below that 2 ¼” after the door was opened, the window will not automatically close when the door has been closed.  Keep this distance about ¼” longer than the distance set for limit switches “V” & “W”.)
16.  When the door is opened limit switch “A” (“E”) connects to power energizing the window close circuit.  The window has dropped and limit switch “B” (“F”) is un-tripped making a completed latch circuit for relay #13 (#14) sending continuous power to limit switch “C” (“G”). The drop limit switch “D” (“H”) has not been tripped yet at end of window drop travel and ready to send power to raise window.
17.  When the door is closed, limit switch “C” (“G”) is tripped sending current through drop limit switch “D” (“H”) to the window “Up” circuit.  Limit switch “A” (“E”) is also tripped, breaking the power connection to relay #13 (#14) trigger.  (The relay will stay latched until limit switch “B” (“F”) is tripped at window top of travel.)
« Last Edit: November 24, 2013, 03:40:24 PM by RT »
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