G28 - Simple Mans, Simple REDO of an G28 LP640

[Simple Man]

Looking at the front bumper on the REDO it still has the sag.  Will have to take out some steel tubing that has been bonded to the fiber glass fender well to fix the sag.

Looked at Nickmmkk's build, Thanks for the pictures! It should help.  Is the goal to get the rockers in line with the front bumper?

Jets303 post on bumper sag fix ... photo bucket issue http://lamboclone.com/index.php?topic=151.msg1711#msg1711

[Simple Man]

Get this saw, I bought one last month.
https://www.sawblade.com/trajan700.cfm

Would buy if I didnt already order up a blade for the compound saw.
Thanks!

[★Murci-Me★]

Get this saw, I bought one last month.
https://www.sawblade.com/trajan700.cfm

[Simple Man]

got started cutting the steel for the REDO front bumper.

Using rectangle tube that has the same dimensions as the fiero front frame.  The wall thickness is 3/16.

Started cutting the pieces, but need to get a new saw blade. One saw for cutting length, but the angle saw is great!  Borrowed from a friend.  A real time saver!!

The fiero frame wasn't cut evenly at the ends.  Using a tool to get the angle as both sides are different.

[Simple Man]

The front bumper needed to come out and be beefed up.

It consisted of a 2x2 coming out from the frame, a 1/8 by 4 inch for the front of the bumper ...tack welded in the center. and some misc, 1/2 and 3/4 inch tubing.

Looked at jets303 set up and it will solve the lack of weight in the front end as the car is very tippy, and maybe make me feel safer,

It came out pretty easy.

[Simple Man]

Got back from my trip and installed the driver side Arruat front suspension and brake set up.

First is read the instructions and have a cocktail   

I ordered the bearing set up for the QA1 adjustable coil overs.

[01Lambiero]

The two lower bolts on that bracket were replaced with longer threaded bolts for my cross brace which connects the two upper shock brackets (RH & LH) together.  Due to limited clearance, I added spacers to reach the support plate which was then welded to the frame rails and then the crossbar was welded to those plates.  (hope this makes sense)

01

[Simple Man]

Modified the drivers bracket and installed it.

Onward!

[Simple Man]

I had a friend who owns a fabrication shop come by and look at the Arruat parts and the car.   After measuring the Drivers and passenger side brackets the passenger side Arruat bracket is off by between 3/16" & 1/8".

the drivers side is doable with very minor modification & Murci Me suggested bolts.

He took the replacement bracket that Arruat sent and is going to fix it and have it back to me Monday.

The basturdized bracket will be a paper weigh.

Onward!!

[Simple Man]

I'm sorry to hear all the problems you are having with these parts. I once considered buying a system from them for my friends car, now I'm glad I didn't!
I remember having a similar problem with bolt holes lining up properly with the NAERC widetrack system I bought, much the same as you are having. I to had to modify the parts to get them to fit correctly, and then ended up trashing both upper control arms they supplied and building a set of my own along with modifying the lowers as well.

Thanks MM!

I just hoping that this is the only issue I have with the Arruat Set up     Had I known then, what I know now, I would have gone in a different direction. Or maybe not even started    But I actually enjoy working on this POS... I mean REDO 

At this juncture, just want to get the car on  four wheels, so I can work on the A-pillar issue and drivers door,  outside, before the weather turns.

[Simple Man]

I mentioned prior that you might loosen the 4 lower attachment bolts to see if that would help with the alignment and I still think that a thin washer inserted between the crossmember and the frame on the front bolts will help with the hole alignment.
(I drool every time I see how nice a job you did on your clean up of the Fiero parts.  Mine were so rusty )

01

thanks 01!!  Every bolt is  loosley bolted. 

For the two washers, not sure how that would help, but I will give it a try... you never know

Richard picked up the phone this morning and he thinks he has a solution. 
I am heading out of town with truck an trailer to get my daughter into he apt as she will be starting and internship.  Sooooo, with a 4 hour drive each way I will have time to ponder an think about this problem 

I do like the idea of cutting the bracket, as suggested by 01.  I will also make the bottom piece thicker to get rid of the gap that is there.

Here is the OEM vs the Arruat .

[01Lambiero]

I mentioned prior that you might loosen the 4 lower attachment bolts to see if that would help with the alignment and I still think that a thin washer inserted between the crossmember and the frame on the front bolts will help with the hole alignment.
(I drool every time I see how nice a job you did on your clean up of the Fiero parts.  Mine were so rusty )

01

[★Murci-Me★]

I'm sorry to hear all the problems you are having with these parts. I once considered buying a system from them for my friends car, now I'm glad I didn't!
I remember having a similar problem with bolt holes lining up properly with the NAERC widetrack system I bought, much the same as you are having. I to had to modify the parts to get them to fit correctly, and then ended up trashing both upper control arms they supplied and building a set of my own along with modifying the lowers as well.

[01Lambiero]

What a mess.  You could cut the bottom plate off and weld in a new redrilled plate or make two little plates to be welded on top.  Definitely weld the shock brackets on the inside.  My son purchased a Strange spool and a Richmond gearset for his '92 Firebird drag car and the ring gear wouldn't sit flat against the spool because of lack of sufficient chamfer on the back side.  Stuff like this just happens in our league.
01

[Simple Man]

For kicks here is the basturdized part that will fit.  Drivers side not as bad. 

Also the OEM piece re-installs nicely. 

since originally only one side of the Strut arm is welded, I might be able to weld on the inside of the arm, as the weld on the outside has been compromised/weakened by grinding to get the Arruat part to fit 

Then add material on the rear side and fill in the hole. This would save me moving the forward arm back an 1/8"

When the bracket is mounted there is also at least a 1/8" inch gap between the cross member and the Arruat part.