G28 - Simple Mans, Simple REDO of an G28 LP640

[eddie]

Hey Simple, when you are changing S/C oil that stuff smells like dead road kill , don’t spill any
Seriously

[Simple Man]

took the engine out for final assembly.  What a nightmare!! the passenger side rear bolt was a pita!! 

Only known issue is the  alternator relocation bracket (sold by FieroROG on pennocks) requires a short spark plug.  Even then the alternator will have to be unbolted and lowered to get it out.

Been so long I'm not sure why it was relocated 

Before the engine is put back in need to:
Change super charger oil
New fuel injectors
Install and check new rear brake brackets from Arruat... god I hope they are right!
Install lengthened axles

[Simple Man]

doing good job, how ever I still would change the rad fans now while you have all open, those fans that comes with the Honda radiators are only 1100 CFM + - 50 . Spals are like 1850 cfm.
also if you are going to store relays not in the cab use oem ones. I went to pick part and got few exterior relays . they are water proof. and more or less last longer then made in CHINA .just my opinion

Thanks Eddie!  I have been looking at the Spal 30103202, but will hold off for now.

On this car the body was already mounted when I purchased it.  The radiator was in the front of the car.  It was a bit of a PITA putting in the rear radiators with the body on the car.  But They come in and out the car very easily at this point.  The wiring for the Fans as well as the mounting of the fans are such that it can handle the added amps and depth/thickness of the fans, when a HO Spal fan or fans are added.

Good idea on the relays!

[Simple Man]

Very Nice....

I would recommend a clearly visible and accessible place to put the relays and fuses. In my NAERC the fuses and relays are all over the place and I had to spend ton of time finding them, Also when/if someone else works on your car you will wind up spending ton of money for them to figure out what is where. Planing up front will save you time and money in the long run.
Also.... Why do you have 2 relays, one for push and one for pull (to be honest I haven't read the full thread yet)
Are you using 2 fans per radiator? one on each side , one to push and one to pull? or are you just planing ahaid just in case you want to flip the air direction. I have a severe heating issue in my Diablo that I am working on currently (lol when I can work and family comes first)

CCIE

Thanks CCIE!

The relays are easy to get to and marked what they control.  One for the Trans cooler, one for pull and one for push.  On each radiator one fan pushes and one pulls.

I put two fans on each radiator because I had them

Good luck on your build as well and yes family first!! 

[eddie]

doing good job, how ever I still would change the rad fans now while you have all open, those fans that comes with the Honda radiators are only 1100 CFM + - 50 . Spals are like 1850 cfm.
also if you are going to store relays not in the cab use oem ones. I went to pick part and got few exterior relays . they are water proof. and more or less last longer then made in CHINA .just my opinion

[CCIE]

Very Nice....

I would recommend a clearly visible and accessible place to put the relays and fuses. In my NAERC the fuses and relays are all over the place and I had to spend ton of time finding them, Also when/if someone else works on your car you will wind up spending ton of money for them to figure out what is where. Planing up front will save you time and money in the long run.
Also.... Why do you have 2 relays, one for push and one for pull (to be honest I haven't read the full thread yet)
Are you using 2 fans per radiator? one on each side , one to push and one to pull? or are you just planing ahaid just in case you want to flip the air direction. I have a severe heating issue in my Diablo that I am working on currently (lol when I can work and family comes first)

CCIE

[Simple Man]

REDO on the radiator wiring complete

Havent settled on a final place for relays, will figure out as the build goes forward.

Quite the mess with all the stuff out for install!! 

Onward!!

[Simple Man]

Good job on insulating the terminals with the shrink tubing.  If you like, check my post in "Electrical" on the terminals that come with shrink already incorporated into the terminals.

01

01 thanks!  I saw the terminals in the hardware store, but I have a few male and female and shrink tube around, that I would like to use first...dont want to bust the budget on this build and buy more

[01Lambiero]

Good job on insulating the terminals with the shrink tubing.  If you like, check my post in "Electrical" on the terminals that come with shrink already incorporated into the terminals.

01

[Simple Man]

Was just going to put the relays next to the battery in the rear trunk? 

Or put up under by the frame member? 

Upgrading the Radiator wiring for possible HO spal fans if need be.

[Simple Man]

More exciting stuff 

Decided on different relay so they all looked the same

Shrink tubing, Strip wire, Crimp female connector, more shrink, tubing apply heat.

 

[Simple Man]

Try to get something done everyday in the limited amount of time available

Made a fiberglass tray for back trunk area. 

[Simple Man]

Not much progress been down with some flu bug and slowly getting back at it.

Had the radiators in and out a few times and noticed some funky wiring on the rear side marker lights..... REDO

Driver side had one set of crimp connectors the passenger side two sets.  Removed all three and rewired.

Have the feeling this process will be repeated again and again and again

[Simple Man]

bought new engine mounts.  A more accurate bar size is 1.5 x 2 and 1/8 inch thick.

Not sure if these upper mounts are necessary, as the engine and trans are secured by 3 mounts on the cradle.

Now just need to prep for paint, weld into car and paint

onward!

[Simple Man]

with the fieroROG cradle mounts for the engine and transmission the engine moved from the original position by 2 to 2.5 inches to the passenger side.  That was not the only problem it also moved the engine to the rear by about an inch.

The original bar was a massive 1/4 thick 2x2  tube!! It weighed a ton!!