G28 - Simple Mans, Simple REDO of an G28 LP640

[Simple Man]

Door latch - Well the fiberglass on the door end is warped, and short. Thinking about either adding material to the door on the outside and removing from the inside.  Or just cutting the end off and welding up a mounting plate for the latch in the correct position and angle.  Then fiber glassing a new end on.

have to think about it, over the next few days

[Simple Man]

All flanges on drivers side fixed and seal installed

[Simple Man]

Using the reducible gas shock from McMaster Carr 6465K7 that have been previously mentioned in other posts here.   

These have 13mm ball studs.  The REDO had a 10mm mounted on the body.  Thought about REDoing and installing a 13mm, but ordered a 10mm Ball Socket End Fittings with Safety Clip for Gas Springs. 

Did a test mounting and these shocks are excellent, very powerful!

Hi Simple, it's always good to see builders take attention to detail such as using ball joints and sockets like OEM...

I hope you know this already, to Not reduce the gas pressure untill your doors are completed, or not reduce them at all, These doors get pretty heavy when completed the right way. just my .02

Lambo Sam, Thanks for the .02!!     I'm trying to REDO the REDO correctly.
  I appreciate the helpful advice from builders who have dealt with the issues before and were successful, like yourself.

My motto - however long it takes to do it right and make it look good, that is how long it will take    Happy holidays to you and your family  Lambo Sam     

[Simple Man]

more exciting stuff on the REDO... front flange, thinner than my hair...  Just tore it off with my hand.   It was good to have the unmolested passenger side as a guide.

Then all this spray in expando foam ,is this a good product to use to fill in voids or is there something better?

[lambo_sam]

Using the reducible gas shock from McMaster Carr 6465K7 that have been previously mentioned in other posts here.   

These have 13mm ball studs.  The REDO had a 10mm mounted on the body.  Thought about REDoing and installing a 13mm, but ordered a 10mm Ball Socket End Fittings with Safety Clip for Gas Springs. 

Did a test mounting and these shocks are excellent, very powerful!

Hi Simple, it's always good to see builders take attention to detail such as using ball joints and sockets like OEM...

I hope you know this already, to Not reduce the gas pressure untill your doors are completed, or not reduce them at all, These doors get pretty heavy when completed the right way. just my .02

[Footcutter]

I am using a dual system based on the same shocks.  They work great!

[Simple Man]

Using the reducible gas shock from McMaster Carr 6465K7 that have been previously mentioned in other posts here.   

These have 13mm ball studs.  The REDO had a 10mm mounted on the body.  Thought about REDoing and installing a 13mm, but ordered a 10mm Ball Socket End Fittings with Safety Clip for Gas Springs. 

Did a test mounting and these shocks are excellent, very powerful!

[Simple Man]

I think the REDO on the drivers door is headed in the right direction.

Here is a picture of the Old door install before the driver side A pillars width was increased. Alignment not so good.

Here is the REDO alignment  better

[Simple Man]

Tested to see if the door hit the fender in the raised position.  Attached frame to hinge with two spot welds.  Then taped the outer skin to the inner

Test was a success, the outer door skin cleared the fender with a small gap between the two panels

[Simple Man]

Made the frame for the Door. 

The old door was attached to the frame in one location, which to me seemed iffy. 

I will be making a frame so the hinge will be attached to the REDO frame on three sides.

[Simple Man]

Your fiberglass skills are awesome,  you are doing a very good job on those pieces.  Lining them up properly now will make it so much easier for you when it comes time for the bodywork phase.

Thanks !!!

[autopro]

Your fiberglass skills are awesome,  you are doing a very good job on those pieces.  Lining them up properly now will make it so much easier for you when it comes time for the bodywork phase.

[Footcutter]

 

[Simple Man]

To fill the gap between the inner door and the front seal the door length had to be increased.

Once a good seal was obtained,  the curved piece was fiber-glassed in

[Simple Man]

Now that the inner door is pushed back to the correct position the issue now moved to the wheel well area.  I have a huge gap.

When compared to the Old doors the shape is completely different.

 The old door has a hump in the curved part the new door does not.  The old door is longer. The new door is warped pretty badly.

Decided to make my own curved section for the inner door.