G28 - Simple Mans, Simple REDO of an G28 LP640

[Footcutter]

Mere mortals would just leave it.  Way to do it right! 

[Simple Man]

but wait there's more.....

Sand, dyna glass, sand rage, rage

pretty straight

[Simple Man]

exciting stuff ......

cut, grind, fiberglass fiberglass, grind fiberglass

[Simple Man]

"NEW" inner doors have a warped bottom.

I see fiber glassing in my future.

[Simple Man]

To get the door glass to lay against the inner door took a lot of sanding as well as increasing the upper door seal flange.

Knowing what I know now,  I should have used the doors that came with the car and reworked them instead of using these "NEW" doors 

[autopro]

Mikes car is awesome, I got to ride in it a few years ago and it was a blast.  He really helped me in this hobby and is a great guy to talk to.

[Simple Man]

My gal had a business trip to LA and I was able to tag along and stop by and see Murci-Me’s G28.

This is the second time to view the car and it was just as impressive as the first time I saw it over 3 years ago in January 2016.

Enjoyed my chat with Michael and picked up some great ideas for the REDO, plus a million pictures of his build.  Thanks Michael!

Can’t wait to get back at it!

[autopro]

Doors are the most time consuming, I feel both of your guy's pain.

[Simple Man]

I feel your pain, I'm currently working on my inner door as well. I have countless hours into one door and. Not sure when it will end. Keep up the good work!

Thanks!  I was hoping to start on the window install but we had a power outage early Sunday morning that lasted for 30 hours... So zero progress on the REDO!

[Purple LP670 SV]

I feel your pain, I'm currently working on my inner door as well. I have countless hours into one door and. Not sure when it will end. Keep up the good work!

[Simple Man]

Dear God! I spent a ton of time getting the twisted inner door to lie flush against the door seal      It was like reconstructive surgery.  Pretty happy how it came out.

Compared the curve of the OEM glass to the opening and the old door that I took of the car. I can already see that I will be spending a ton of time getting the opening correct for the glass. 

[01Lambiero]

That's a winner.  Being that we are mounting the latch 90 degrees from the oem Mercedes location, I don't know if the weight on the latch is really necessary and could be cut off.  Maybe someone on here could chime in and correct me on that.  Also the amount of pull to unlock the latch leads me to think that as there are 2 springs on that lever, the stiff spring could be removed.  (I have done this but as yet I haven't finished my doors)  I don't know how this would affect the latching mechanism when closing the door but it would certainly require less pull on the interior release handle.  The OEM release lever is make out of plastic and breakage results are common.  Some of the guys have made handles made out of aluminum.  These are a great advantage.
01

[Simple Man]

Boy, you're really stretching my grey matter.  I know that there are a few that look similar but the strikers are different.  My advice is to go with the W115 but make sure that you get the strikers that are the same year as the latches.  Make sure that they are the stamped steel and not the cast ones.  Note that the 3rd picture has the child safety button it (I think that this button keeps the door from opening from the inside).  This latch is from a rear door.
5th picture shows reinforcement placed behind the latch.  It can be welded to the door inner framework for strength.
01

Thanks 01!

I was able to locate my W115 that I bought in 2015.     When compared to the W126 it is a bit narrower which I like.  It also looks like it would work for external mounting where the W126 doesn't look like that would be possible.   Something to mull over as I work on getting the upper door to seal.

[01Lambiero]

Boy, you're really stretching my grey matter.  I know that there are a few that look similar but the strikers are different.  My advice is to go with the W115 but make sure that you get the strikers that are the same year as the latches.  Make sure that they are the stamped steel and not the cast ones.  Note that the 3rd picture has the child safety button it (I think that this button keeps the door from opening from the inside).  This latch is from a rear door.
5th picture shows reinforcement placed behind the latch.  It can be welded to the door inner framework for strength.
01

[Simple Man]

The reason for using the exterior latch is that it is mounted rearward towards the striker.  With an interior latch, the door needs to be moved to the rear and close to the striker.  Look at all 3 of your pictures and you can see where the door is rubbing on the striker.  Hope yours come out OK.

01

O1 so what latch is it that mounts externally?